I'll be back to reply about the cost when I have more time.
Last edited by Kustoms; 11-18-2008 at 12:39 PM.
Hello. Sorry for the delay in replying to this, but here are some rough costs.
We had $3500 in the used engine and transmission for a unit that we expected to be a good low mileage assembly. Looking back now, I wish we had skipped this and gone straight to a rebuilt engine. It seems that it is hard to find an good running rotary engine and that it's just best to plan on either having one rebuilt or buy a rebuilt to start with. Rebuilding can run about $4000-5000 depending on who does it and how much modifying they do (can go higher too with greater mods). We had a moderate port job done on this one which involves opening up the intake and exhaust ports. This is where air enters and exits the rotor chambers and modifying the ports effects a rotary like changing a cam shaft does in a 4 stroke engine.
A aftermarket ECM is best over the Mazda computer. These can run $1500-2000 depending on brand and options. The Turbo was a Garrett T04 and was about $1700. Misc. parts like coolers, hoses, wires, wastegate, header, and other necessary parts added up to about $4000.
The other major part that's needed is strengthening the Opel body and installing a stronger rear axle. We added structure in the floor, a roll bar, and a Ford 8.8 rear axle with 4 link suspension. For a used axle, cutting down, regearing, and steel parts there is about $3000 in parts and that could go higher if more was done to the axle and things like coil over shocks were used.
Time adds up quick on a project like this. It could easily run $20,000 or more for installing. What would be really nice to do is cut the floor and inner structure out from the body and build a custom chassis. This would allow for better strength and more room for engine and suspension. It would be more costly too though.
Thanks for your interest in the car. It's a neat project. The owner is working on wiring and interior right now so I'd guess he'll have it on the road next summer. I'll post finished pictures when the time comes. Have a good day.
Bravo!! Nicely done! Very cool! John
1970 Opel GT Sunburst Yellow
1971 Opel GT colour ?
1971 Opel GT silver
1972 Opel GT fireglow orange
how difficult was it to get the Autometer gauges to fit?
jaydog, the gauges actually fit the panel very well. The small gauges were 2 5/8" and if I remember correctly they fit into the original gauge openings without any changes. The speedo and tach were 5" units. Using a die grinder with a ball end cutter, we clearanced the panel around the top half of each opening for the gauge bezel to fit in nicely and then slide them in. With the way the wiring is on the Opel gauge cluster (wires to each gauge), we were able to simply wire them in so that the panel plugged in the same as factory- just connected the main harness to the engine harness where needed.
Nice work! Do you have any shots of the diff installation? And rear of the trans?
How did you mount the gauges? I am looking at a similar setup for my GT rebuild.
Arguing online is the same as racing in the Special Olympics;
no matter who wins, you're both still retarded.
1971 GT (Opelwasp)
1974 Manta A (Polizei)
2001 Dodge Dakota SLT 4x4 Quad Cab
2006 Suzuki SV650S
2009 Chevy Impala LT
2015 Dodge Charger SE
i am about to do this to my opel and was wondering about the engine mounts and where they had to be placed and how much needs to be cut out. And where did they get the body kit? Thanks
I'm pretty sure the body kit came from Opel GT Source. If they don't have it let me know & I'll ask the car owner as he purchased those. Good luck with it.
I have a few things i wanted to mention about the rotary world and the comment made here about 13b engines. I have been building custom cars for about ten years now and the majority of that time has been in rotary motors and mazda cars. I have worked with all the shops and here on the west coast worked at most the shops. I suggest with your next build that is rotary related, look into all the rotary shops, there are very few that are not just a couple guys with self taught knowledge putting together a motor for large amounts of money. Sad truth in all of it is that these shops usually have teenagers working there and during most times the kids are the builders and the owners with the training and experience you are thinking the great amount of money your are paying for is paying for, but no, its kids with little experience. This is why the rotary has such a bad reputation. There are videos and a few classes out there from basic education programs that teach the basics.
So next time you are looking to go rotary look around and notice that the parts and ability to learn the motor are abundant however the shops doing rebuilds are asking almost three times the parts costs. A seal kit is no more than 1500$ for EVERYTHING. We mean everything. A core motor from japan is less than 1500$ complete trans to ecu...... For 3K all is there to make a new motor. They want how much for cleaning it up and taking an hour to put the keg together? Is clearencing a side seal 12 times over an hour worth 1k in labor? This is why the price is so high and why the rotary world is on its last legs. We offer rebuilds for 1500$ on your core motor, we get maybe 100$ out of each build, however we get to keep that serviceable car on the road for ten years and make more off it being alive than the one rebuild!
To the rest of the cost of this build, i think you guys have done amazing work for a great price! Its amazing how fast everything does add up, but to those who are doing it for the car, they seem not to care!
I hope the owner of this car posts up a few finished pictures and maybe a video of the car done on youtube, i would love to see it driving around!
Very nice build, Very nice opel, very nice rotary swap! A++
I guess i just need to know why the decision was made to keep the motor back instead of pulling the whole drivetrain forward to avoid cutting of the tunnel?
Sorry to bother but I'm looking at doing the renesis swap in my 73 gt and I was curious if u have any good picture of the cross member and transmission mounts and how you made the link rear end. Please and thanks.
Love it round and round not up and down this is what I wanted to do to my gt but I would be unable to register it in qld
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)