Gordo Goes FI in the GTX - Page 5
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Thread: Gordo Goes FI in the GTX

  1. #81
    4,000 Post Club norbertone.gt371's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    Holy Cow Norbert. You stayed so humble and un-modified and not very new for many decades and now you are going wild with GT modifications and now a crazy wild Calibra!

    I can't keep up with you!

    Gordon
    I hope the time is with me,so I have only from day to day!So I will have fun and not lay arround in bed.
    Without the help of my friends,maybe I would have give up long time.
    I didn`t know
    I think the Calibra will be only a Garage Queen as she was all live.

    Btw.It will be the second Calibra I own. The first 1992 was real Lopez car

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  3. #82
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Fuel Return line kit

    Running a fuel return line is one of the next jobs, so I thought I'd look to see if there was a kit of some sort. JEG's had this incredibly simple idea:

    https://www.jegs.com/p/Moroso/Moroso...43759/10002/-1


    Fuel return line kit.png


    Gosh that's simple! No messing with your tank, put the return line in your filler neck. This probably wouldn't work for me, but maybe it could. My fuel inlet is only a few inches above the top of the tank, complications might arise. But this would probably be a good solution for you normal GTers.

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    One way to solve the return line to tank connection: http://www.fuel-pumps.net/fuel-tank-...d-fitting.html
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    Double post.

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    Double post.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Commodåren View Post
    One way to solve the return line to tank connection: Fuel Tank Bulkhead Fitting from Fuel-Pumps.net
    Didnt read your whole thered as it was a bit long! Not sure if you have run the lines yet but i used Goodridge hardline and fittings for my A series injection install, followed the original fule line route and they do bulk head fittings.

    http://www.theopelproject.com/wp-con...0520121453.jpg
    http://www.theopelproject.com/wp-con...0520121454.jpg

    Thought it might be of interest to you.

    Andy
    Attached Images Attached Images
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  9. #87
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Hey! Thanks a lot! I've been hoping to get some ideas on line routing and maybe replacing my present single metal fuel line with a neatly installed dual pair. I'll look through your set up and see if I can do something similar.


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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    Hey! Thanks a lot! I've been hoping to get some ideas on line routing and maybe replacing my present single metal fuel line with a neatly installed dual pair. I'll look through your set up and see if I can do something similar.

    If you need any more pics let me know, not sure what i have on the blog The Opel Project | The Mission – to get to the nurburgring in the Opel but have taken a few. Very easy to install and not that expensive (even in the uk!) so probably nice and cheap in the US. (https://www.goodridge.co.uk/collecti...inium-hardline) they do loads of fitting. routed mine from the boot with bulk head fittings, followed the standard route, then came up into the engien bay, used a bracked for 2 more fittings and then onto the braided lines for the throttle bodies, fuel filter and pressure regulator in inside the engien bay.

    P clipped the pipe and as long as its a bit warm you can work with it easily. Let me knwo if you want some pics of boot fitting and engine bay.

    andy

  11. #89
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    It's going to be a nice weekend and I have to start major disassembly and fluid draining to make way for the fuel injection conversion and head replacement on my car. Drain the tank and remove all vestiges of the current fuel delivery system. Remove the carb/manifold/linkage/pedal. Drain and remove the radiator and remove the current hoses/thermo assembly.

    I have a fancy custom fuel tank and I'll have a refurbished and chromy FI system, but all the stuff in between was fairly pedestrian, so it's time to pick up my game. I plan on replacing everything with AN fittings and new widgets.

    New 2.4 head with dished instead of domed valves to reduce compression, plus a Cometic 2mm thick head gasket to also reduce compression.

    My nice 3-core copper heavy duty radiator has served me very well, but it's an ugly oem black dented up eyesore, even with it's cool stainless top cover, so I'm replacing it with one of the new 3-core aluminum OGTS radiators. Long waiting list for those.

    I tentatively plan on routing the computer wire harness through the heater box area. I have the heater removed in favor of a relocated aftermarket heater, so that whole heater box area is just a pathway for the flow through ventilation, which I pretty much keep closed all the time, so I might as well use it for something useful. I had made a chromed aluminum cover plate for that area, but it's not holding up very well, so that has to go anyway. I made a diamond plate block off plate for the rectangular heater box opening above the passenger footwell and I plan on routing the wire harness through that plate and mount the computer to the plate itself.


    My head is done and Charlie is going to send me that and just about everything needed to complete the FI install. I have to test fit all that stuff and make mountings and paths for stuff and then send some stuff off to the chromers for chroming. I'm figuring on a 2 month time frame from now before final hook up and the first turn of the key.

    Last edited by The Scifi Guy; 1 Week Ago at 08:07 AM.
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    Cometic gasket

    My 2mm thick Cometic gasket arrived yesterday. I'm not impressed:


    Cometic gasket (1).jpg Cometic gasket (3).jpg Cometic gasket (4).jpg Cometic gasket (2).jpg


    It appears to simply be 5 layers of stamped sheet metal with some corrugations held loosely together with the rivets at 4 external tabs. No printed on seal traces, no spongy substance of any sort at the timing cover, just a bunch of layers of sheet metal. The center, top, and bottom layers are black with some special sort of next-to-nothing-thin black paint-like stuff, with 2 intermingled layers of stainless steel. That's it.

    It will NOT be interesting to see how this assemblage performs.

    Having not read the instructions yet, I presume that I will use RallyBob's method of spraying it with copper spray before install.

    Anyone have experience with these?

    Tips?

    Tricks?

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  13. #91
    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter RallyBob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    My 2mm thick Cometic gasket arrived yesterday. I'm not impressed:


    Cometic gasket (1).jpg Cometic gasket (3).jpg Cometic gasket (4).jpg Cometic gasket (2).jpg


    It appears to simply be 5 layers of stamped sheet metal with some corrugations held loosely together with the rivets at 4 external tabs. No printed on seal traces, no spongy substance of any sort at the timing cover, just a bunch of layers of sheet metal. The center, top, and bottom layers are black with some special sort of next-to-nothing-thin black paint-like stuff, with 2 intermingled layers of stainless steel. That's it.

    It will NOT be interesting to see how this assemblage performs.

    Having not read the instructions yet, I presume that I will use RallyBob's method of spraying it with copper spray before install.

    Anyone have experience with these?

    Tips?

    Tricks?

    Relax Gordon, most late model engines use MLS gaskets. Yes, the layers are ‘loose’. This is normal.

    Some OEM gaskets come with a urethane coating on them. The Cometics do not.

    I like using either the copper spray or Hylomar sealer. Depends what I have handy.

    A little extra sealer at the front doesn’t hurt, however keep in mind the raised areas of the gaskets are what create the ‘crush’ and aid in sealing.
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  14. #92
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    I think Gordo is just unimpressed because it's not chrome with tricked out red highlights.
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    Opel GTs are not GM products
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  15. #93
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    Redneck Gas Station

    I had almost a full tank of fresh premium gas in the tank, but I'm planning on major fuel line mods so it had to come out.

    What to do with it all?

    Hmmmmm......

    Redneck Gas Station (1).jpg Redneck Gas Station (2).jpg

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    Are you going to use an in-tank or external fuel pump ? Baffles for keeping the fuel flowing to the pump without sucking air when fuel level is low or a surge tank ?
    https://images.app.goo.gl/tYRSzUvqqUABSoFx7

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    Are you running 2.4 bottom end? as did read on a few threads about punching 2 extra holes in the head gasket on the exhaust side to reduce heat? not sure if this is something that needs to be done or if some people prefer to do it? im sure Bob will be able to give his view on it.

    Andy
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    My 2mm thick Cometic gasket arrived yesterday. I'm not impressed:


    Cometic gasket (1).jpg Cometic gasket (3).jpg Cometic gasket (4).jpg Cometic gasket (2).jpg


    It appears to simply be 5 layers of stamped sheet metal with some corrugations held loosely together with the rivets at 4 external tabs. No printed on seal traces, no spongy substance of any sort at the timing cover, just a bunch of layers of sheet metal. The center, top, and bottom layers are black with some special sort of next-to-nothing-thin black paint-like stuff, with 2 intermingled layers of stainless steel. That's it.

    It will NOT be interesting to see how this assemblage performs.

    Having not read the instructions yet, I presume that I will use RallyBob's method of spraying it with copper spray before install.

    Anyone have experience with these?

    Tips?

    Tricks?

    I have only installed one and only one MLS gasket in my life, not close to the experience Bob has had with them. I used the cork gasket and treated it like any other head gasket with the exception of adding a very thin layer of grey silicone gasket sealer between all layers ONLY above timing cover being EXTREMELY vigilant not to interfere with the hole in the gasket for the oil galley. It seemed like some sort of sealant needed there. Hopefully I didn’t do anything wrong. So far so good after 10k+ miles. What, if any feedback have you gotten as far as the what surface smoothness is on both your block & head, if any? For all I know other people have had success using them with a 70-75 RA finish on the surface, good enough for any other standard head gasket. I’m curious if you’ve heard of anyone else getting away with that.

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    As with women, it looks pretty good stripped.....

    Fuel tank and coolant system drained. Radiator removed. Carb system removed. Radiator and engine flushed with water. Various wires and connectors disconnected.

    That's it for today.

    Tomorrow I'll pull the head and we shall see what we shall see.


    Stripping of the engine compartment in preparation for FI (1).jpg Stripping of the engine compartment in preparation for FI (2).jpg


    Yeah, 2.4 head and block.

    I don't think the punching the holes in the gasket is as necessary on a raised port head as it is with an inline 2.0 head. I'm not anxious to punch holes in this expensive gasket. Unless Bob says I absolutely MUST do it, I ain't doin' it.

    As far as the degree of flatness, all I can say is that Charlie says that his shop is the best in his area and other shops send their milling work to them.

    External fuel pump. I really don't know if my tank has baffles or a "wall". I kinda recall that it does and I know for sure that it doesn't have the spaghetti pot. I might be wrong about the baffle. What good does it do to have baffles if you run out of gas? If you're out of gas, you're out of gas and the pump will suck air one way or the other. Or does a baffle prevent that gas from being used and holds it so that the pump can keep recirculating gas back to the baffle area? I would think that if the gas is being consumed by the engine, it will eventually use it all up one way or the other.

    Last edited by The Scifi Guy; 1 Week Ago at 03:56 PM.

  20. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    Fuel tank and coolant system drained. Radiator removed. Carb system removed. Radiator and engine flushed with water. Various wires and connectors disconnected.

    That's it for today.

    Tomorrow I'll pull the head and we shall see what we shall see.


    Stripping of the engine compartment in preparation for FI (1).jpg Stripping of the engine compartment in preparation for FI (2).jpg


    Yeah, 2.4 head and block.

    I don't think the punching the holes in the gasket is as necessary on a raised port head as it is with an inline 2.0 head. I'm not anxious to punch holes in this expensive gasket. Unless Bob says I absolutely MUST do it, I ain't doin' it.

    As far as the degree of flatness, all I can say is that Charlie says that his shop is the best in his area and other shops send their milling work to them.

    External fuel pump. I really don't know if my tank has baffles or a "wall". I kinda recall that it does and I know for sure that it doesn't have the spaghetti pot. I might be wrong about the baffle. What good does it do to have baffles if you run out of gas? If you're out of gas, you're out of gas and the pump will suck air one way or the other. Or does a baffle prevent that gas from being used and holds it so that the pump can keep recirculating gas back to the baffle area? I would think that if the gas is being consumed by the engine, it will eventually use it all up one way or the other.

    If I remember correctly the extra holes came into play for the smaller engines, and it was used to keep the exhaust heat from cracking the head, so I did it on mine back in 05. I don't and won't have the power you have with yours, plus I wasn't using a metal gasket. Punching a hole in your gasket would deform it in my opinion. I'd leave it be. Jarrell
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post

    I don't think the punching the holes in the gasket is as necessary on a raised port head as it is with an inline 2.0 head. I'm not anxious to punch holes in this expensive gasket. Unless Bob says I absolutely MUST do it, I ain't doin' it.
    Unless you have a proper punch (Roper-Whitney type) for sheet metal, you’re better off leaving it alone before you cause irreversible damage to the gasket.
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    Fuel tank and coolant system drained. Radiator removed. Carb system removed. Radiator and engine flushed with water. Various wires and connectors disconnected.

    That's it for today.

    Tomorrow I'll pull the head and we shall see what we shall see.


    Stripping of the engine compartment in preparation for FI (1).jpg Stripping of the engine compartment in preparation for FI (2).jpg


    Yeah, 2.4 head and block.

    I don't think the punching the holes in the gasket is as necessary on a raised port head as it is with an inline 2.0 head. I'm not anxious to punch holes in this expensive gasket. Unless Bob says I absolutely MUST do it, I ain't doin' it.

    As far as the degree of flatness, all I can say is that Charlie says that his shop is the best in his area and other shops send their milling work to them.

    External fuel pump. I really don't know if my tank has baffles or a "wall". I kinda recall that it does and I know for sure that it doesn't have the spaghetti pot. I might be wrong about the baffle. What good does it do to have baffles if you run out of gas? If you're out of gas, you're out of gas and the pump will suck air one way or the other. Or does a baffle prevent that gas from being used and holds it so that the pump can keep recirculating gas back to the baffle area? I would think that if the gas is being consumed by the engine, it will eventually use it all up one way or the other.

    Baffles, swirl pots or surge tanks are needed to prevent that the FI fuel pump sucks air when the fuel is sloshing around during acceleration or turns, which in a worst case can destroy the engine when it suddenly runs lean. But if you get your foot out of it and just cruise around and always keep the tank at least half full, you probably can get by without them.
    Swirl pot from a Vectra B in a Manta A tank: http://www.opel6070club.com/loiskelevyt/index.htm
    Last edited by Commodåren; 1 Week Ago at 05:14 PM.
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