Gordo Goes FI in the GTX - Page 7
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Thread: Gordo Goes FI in the GTX

  1. #121
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    The 2.2 engine I was going to get isn't quite ready yet, but he did have a finished 2.4 for another customer already to ship. So, he talked with the guy and he was okay with me getting it. He didn't have a car to put it in yet. A 2.4 is just right for the lower speeds I drive, a 2.2 would be better for going fast on the highway.

    I will either sell the 2.4 I have to Charlie or to someone else who wants it.
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    2000 Post Club soybean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    That's good then, as i have made these holes in mine already :-)

    Used one of these type punches https://www.frost.co.uk/set-of-6-hole-punches/
    drill a small hole with a sharp drill, then put the hole punch on and its cuts a nice very clean hole with no distorsion.
    Andy
    On my gaskets(non metal), I just used a regular hole punch, marked the holes, and smacked the punch. One of the first of many Rallye Bob tricks I've used. Jarrell
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    1000 Post Club Vincent's Avatar
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    Gordon
    Would you mind posting a few pictures of your head / combustion Chambers and cylinder / pistons? Please?

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  6. #124
    Bikini Inspector Frozen Tundra GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    #1 Cylinder: Head gasket leak of coolant into combustion chamber. That cylinder always had lower compression than the others and it's had several head gaskets installed because of other head removal reasons and still it maintained the lower compression compared to the others. Why? I'm told that that head/block were only very lightly milled flat, I think that there is a low spot causing the leak and that it needs a better milling.
    #2 Cylinder: Intake valve is black. The intake valves on the other cylinders are all white/grey, as I'm told they should be. Spark plugs have always been black on that cylinder. Why?
    #3 Cylinder: The only one that doesn't seem to have a unique or individual problem.
    #4 Cylinder: 5 minutes after engine shutdown, with all 4 plugs removed, and while a compression test was being done to #1 cylinder, this cylinder ignited the fuel and spun the engine, followed by brown smoke flowing for several minutes out of the spark plug hole. There's no visual difference between cylinders/valves 3+4, so they are both probably okay and it was just chance that #4's carbon deposits ignited the fuel. It could just as easily happened to any of the other cylinders.

    All 4 pistons have uniform black encrustation like the roughest emery cloth you've ever seen. This, even after doing a thorough cleaning with Seafoam and after only 8000 miles.

    3 cylinders are at 210psi compression. That's too much. #1 is at 185. That's too much difference. I've been chasing what sounded like a valve tap for several years and couldn't pinpoint it. Sonic probes, stethoscopes, tighten/loosen valves, etc., nothing would reveal where the sound was coming from. It always appeared as I was rev'ing out a gear just before shifting. Charlie tells me that he thinks it's a "ping" tap due partially to the high compression and maybe the aggressive advance of my dizzy. Maybe adding octane would have made the sound go away.

    I feel that the best thing would be to clean up/rebuild the whole engine and install the normal oem pistons/rods. This engine was absolutely great for the past 2 years. Really great. But the 2.5 experiment didn't work out so well and maybe it could have been rebuilt better. It was the 1st or 2nd engine the shop did. So, I exchanged the purchase of a 2.2 for a different, average rebuild, 2.4 engine with normal compression and big valves and cleaner running FI.
    the guy that built the irmscher efi GT had similar issues 250 psi compression. he trailered it all the way to OGTS to have them figure it out. I bet compression was your problem all along. thicker gasket was the solution. can higher compression cause head gasket failure?
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  7. #125
    1000 Post Club kwschumm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frozen Tundra GT View Post
    the guy that built the irmscher efi GT had similar issues 250 psi compression. he trailered it all the way to OGTS to have them figure it out. I bet compression was your problem all along. thicker gasket was the solution. can higher compression cause head gasket failure?
    Not just high compression but high cylinder pressure in general. Back in the day I turbo'd a 260Z which subsequently kept blowing head gaskets. Problem solved when the machine shopped O-ringed the head. Not sure if O-ringing heads is still used or if head gaskets are now available to solve the problem.
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  8. #126
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Thread wrap up....

    I'm going to wrap up this thread, since it has turned into an extension of my "I'm So Pissed Off!" thread. Multiple issues seemed to have caused my myriad of troubles with that engine including a vacuum leak, carbon build up due to rich running, head gasket leak into cyl. #1, some sort of issue with #2 intake valve, etc. It occurs to me that maybe the flatness is okay, but the timing cover might be riding high and maybe wasn't letting the head seal well at #1, despite multiple head gaskets. It's far fetched, but a possibility. We may never know.

    Keep in mind that this engine ran and started like a rocket powered clock before AND after the initial and subsequent glitches and was indistinguishable from the awesome way it ran the past two years after Charlie took a crack at the tuning. We just had that last little glitch of it going into limp mode at red lights, due to the automatic squelching the engine speed, which the side draft didn't like.

    I don't think there's anything fundamentally wrong with the block and pistons. The pistons could use a good cleaning, fresh rings and a honing and I'm sure she'd be good to go. The rod/piston combo, that makes it a slightly too high compression 2.5L, might be good for a racer/performance guy, but as a street car I think an oem piston/rod combo would work out better.

    The head? It needs to get checked out. There's something goofy going on.


    I'm going to start a new thread called "2.4 with Motronic FI in a GT", since I'll be recommencing my FI project with an entirely different mostly stock engine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    I'm going to wrap up this thread, since it has turned into an extension of my "I'm So Pissed Off!" thread. Multiple issues seemed to have caused my myriad of troubles with that engine including a vacuum leak, carbon build up due to rich running, head gasket leak into cyl. #1, some sort of issue with #2 intake valve, etc. It occurs to me that maybe the flatness is okay, but the timing cover might be riding high and maybe wasn't letting the head seal well at #1, despite multiple head gaskets. It's far fetched, but a possibility. We may never know.

    Keep in mind that this engine ran and started like a rocket powered clock before AND after the initial and subsequent glitches and was indistinguishable from the awesome way it ran the past two years after Charlie took a crack at the tuning. We just had that last little glitch of it going into limp mode at red lights, due to the automatic squelching the engine speed, which the side draft didn't like.

    I don't think there's anything fundamentally wrong with the block and pistons. The pistons could use a good cleaning, fresh rings and a honing and I'm sure she'd be good to go. The rod/piston combo, that makes it a slightly too high compression 2.5L, might be good for a racer/performance guy, but as a street car I think an oem piston/rod combo would work out better.

    The head? It needs to get checked out. There's something goofy going on.


    I'm going to start a new thread called "2.4 with Motronic FI in a GT", since I'll be recommencing my FI project with an entirely different mostly stock engine.

    Be good to see a thread just for the FI and how you get on.
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  10. #128
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Yup, a nice clean slate to start from.

    I'm going to take my time and enjoy the install. I'm gonna pretend like I'm building a new car with everything new. The GTX2!

    I'm going to send a lot of stuff to the chromers.

    Including the timing cover. I've never seen a chromed CIH timing cover. Yeah, I'm worried about how good a chromed timing cover will seal, so there's time to talk me out of it. If it leaks I can always swap it out for an unchromed one.


  11. #129
    Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer GoinManta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    Yup, a nice clean slate to start from.

    I'm going to take my time and enjoy the install. I'm gonna pretend like I'm building a new car with everything new. The GTX2!

    I'm going to send a lot of stuff to the chromers.

    Including the timing cover. I've never seen a chromed CIH timing cover. Yeah, I'm worried about how good a chromed timing cover will seal, so there's time to talk me out of it. If it leaks I can always swap it out for an unchromed one.

    Can they chrome Just the face of the timing cover and NOT get any of that in the oil passages ? That would be my one concern.
    Last edited by GoinManta; 6 Days Ago at 08:42 PM.
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  12. #130
    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter RallyBob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    Yup, a nice clean slate to start from.

    I'm going to take my time and enjoy the install. I'm gonna pretend like I'm building a new car with everything new. The GTX2!

    I'm going to send a lot of stuff to the chromers.

    Including the timing cover. I've never seen a chromed CIH timing cover. Yeah, I'm worried about how good a chromed timing cover will seal, so there's time to talk me out of it. If it leaks I can always swap it out for an unchromed one.

    <img src="https://www.opelgt.com/forums/images/smilies/veryhappy.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Veryhappy" class="inlineimg" />
    I’d be concerned with copper, nickel, or chrome flaking off and clogging oil passages. Aluminum is notoriously harder to plate than ferrous metals.

    That said, better they mask off all internal passages including the oil pump housing and the bottom flange of the pump housing. Copper, nickel and chrome all take up space. Last thing you want to do is make the pump housing .003” longer or smaller inside. Your gears would bind and/or the oil pressure would go to poo because of the end play tolerance change.
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  13. #131
    Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer GoinManta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RallyBob View Post
    I’d be concerned with copper, nickel, or chrome flaking off and clogging oil passages. Aluminum is notoriously harder to plate than ferrous metals.

    That said, better they mask off all internal passages including the oil pump housing and the bottom flange of the pump housing. Copper, nickel and chrome all take up space. Last thing you want to do is make the pump housing .003” longer or smaller inside. Your gears would bind and/or the oil pressure would go to poo because of the end play tolerance change.
    Ditto.. and the 2.4L Motronic cover is slightly different than the 1.9L and I dont have a lot of them.

    So I would say try to chrome a 1.9L and then I can make that work with the motornic.. if it doesnt then have the 2.4L polished..

    Maybe Chrome like Jet coating be a better option ?
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  14. #132
    2000 Post Club soybean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoinManta View Post
    Can they chrome Just the face of the timing cover and NOT get any of that in the oil passages ? That would be my one concern.
    I blocked all mine off before getting it powder coated. I've never put the valve cover on the car so I do not know if it leaks. It is different is all I can say. I wrapped it up in plastic and put it on the shelf. Jarrell
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  15. #133
    Über Genius First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by soybean View Post
    I blocked all mine off before getting it powder coated. I've never put the valve cover on the car so I do not know if it leaks. It is different is all I can say. I wrapped it up in plastic and put it on the shelf. Jarrell
    The valve cover doesn't touch the timing cover.
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    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Okay, I'm talked out of it. Too risky, too expensive(about $300), you can't see most of it. I'm pretty happy with the way the brush on silver POR15 engine paint with Eastwood Clear sprayed on top as a sealer has performed over the past several years. No staining, no flaking, still perfect as the day I put it on, despite mods, head removals, oil running down the sides during cover off running engine valve adjustments, etc.

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    Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer GoinManta's Avatar
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    GTX² or GTX2 ?

    I am not sure its the "Second" or to the power of 2 better..
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    1000 Post Club kwschumm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoinManta View Post
    GTX² or GTX2 ?

    I am not sure its the "Second" or to the power of 2 better..
    Could be GTY, then you'd have GTZ left for the next one.
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    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vincent View Post
    Gordon
    Would you mind posting a few pictures of your head / combustion Chambers and cylinder / pistons? Please?
    #1
    #1 cylinder (1).jpg #1 cylinder (2).jpg #1 cylinder (3).jpg
    #2
    #2 cylinder (1).jpg #2 cylinder (2).jpg
    #3
    #3 cylinder (1).jpg #3 cylinder (2).jpg
    #4
    #4 cylinder (1).jpg #4 cylinder (2).jpg

  20. #138
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  21. #139
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    1000 Post Club Vincent's Avatar
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    Thank you Gordan. Is the wetness on the piston top 2,3,4 from oil, or simply anti-freese from removing the head?
    Last edited by Vincent; 5 Days Ago at 05:13 PM.

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