Simplified 2.2L/2.4L EFI Thermostat housings - Page 4
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Thread: Simplified 2.2L/2.4L EFI Thermostat housings

  1. #61
    Opeler krewzer's Avatar
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    That's great news!
    Thanks, Charles
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  3. #62
    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter RallyBob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoinManta View Post
    Yes Stainless steel studs and a stainless steel nylock nut would be used.



    I am going to mock up the motor with the EFI INtake on it this weekend ( The studs and nuts will be here today ).

    Then if all goes well he should be able to start very soon if all works out. As I am only making 2 for me and what others order ( at this point a total of 6 it would seem ). Shouldnt take long to get them.
    While I like the idea of the nylock nuts that won’t vibrate loose, I officially cringe at the thought of tightening them 1/4 turn at a time with a wrench...since you can’t just spin them on with your fingers!

    Luckily for me, I don’t have to do it! 😂
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  4. #63
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    It looks like that "pocket" could be ground or filed to allow almost a half a turn of wrench movement, certainly a 1/3. I thought Charlie said that he had one or both of the thermo sensor holes relocated.

    Also, since the design can still be altered, there's no particular necessity for the lower part of the lower housing to be round. The opening in the head is a rectangle, so that lower chamber of the lower housing could be a matching rectangle also, which would allow bolts to be screwed straight in, in the normal fashion.

    It also occurs to me that folks who insist upon drilling the head and routing the water through the head, then block, then timing cover, then the water pump, could use one of the 2 thermo sensor holes as a bypass outlet. The undrilled hole in the side of the head could be tapped and hose fittings could be put there and at one of the sensor holes and a short piece of hose to connect them. Voila, 1.9 style thermo bypass!

    I had bad luck using nylock nuts on my side draft carb set up. The nylon melted and things would loosen up. Maybe they weren't rated for that kind of heat. I'm leery of nylock nuts on engines.
    Last edited by The Scifi Guy; 11-15-2019 at 09:10 PM.
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  6. #64
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    Always thought that prevailing torque lock nuts (not nylon lock nuts) might eventually damage the male thread (bolt, stud, etc.). Maybe it just starts wearing on the distorted nut thread?

    Prevailing Torque Lock Nuts. Prevailing torque lock nuts are one piece, prevailing torque hex nuts with a conical top and a flat bottom bearing surface with chamfered corners. Being all-metal, they are not subject to the temperature and chemical limitations of non-metallic (such as nylon) insert type lock nuts.

    Prevailing torque lock nuts are reusable a limited number of times because the prevailing torque declines each time the nut is used.

    https://www.mcmaster.com/prevailing-torque-locknuts
    Last edited by Lindsay; 11-15-2019 at 11:56 PM.
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  7. #65
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    I haven't run across nuts called "prevailing", although I did find a reference to prevailing torque nuts. The solution to my problem was to get "all-steel lock nuts" from the auto store. They're basically the same thing as our rockers nuts: A normal nut that has been punched/crimped/deformed on one end, causing the threads to deform and dig into the bolt, thus dissuading the nut from unscrewing. They're usually only good for a couple uses and then have to be thrown away, along with the bolt. In worst case scenario, they can dig in to the bolt/stud so strongly that they essentially bond to the threads and won't unscrew and will instead unscrew the stud or, even worse, snap off the bolt/stud if enough force is used.

    In this particular application, I think using all steel lock nuts would be overkill. Temps don't get all that high near the thermostat, so you probably could get away with regular Nylock nuts. But why do that when we could just alter the design of the housing so that bolts can be used.
    Last edited by The Scifi Guy; 11-16-2019 at 07:28 AM.
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  8. #66
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    We're on to something good here, I think we need to try to do a couple more alterations to make it great. I think it would be worth investigating whether the design of the lower area of the lower housing could be altered to allow straight in insertion of bolts. Water enters the housing via a smallish rectangular hole from the head, but the housing then expands to a large round area matching the diameter of the thermostat that looks to be several inches deep. This is unnecessary. The passageway only needs to be round near the vicinity of the thermostat and could be redesigned to taper down to something similar to the smaller rectangular size of the housing inlet. This would allow the exterior of the housing to be narrower and thus allow bolts to be inserted straight in. Also, consider that the relocation of the 2 thermo sensor holes to LOW on the side complicates this problem. Right now they are directly in line with the hardest to get at mounting bolt hole. If the 2 holes were drilled 1/2" higher, then the housing could be made narrower in that location and allow bolts to be inserted straight in. The heater outlet is mounted high near the upper flange, the thermo sensor holes could also be mounted higher. Food for thought....

    Some drawings to illustrate what I mean:

    Thermo redesign engine side view.jpg Thermo redesign front view.jpg Thermo redesign rear view.jpg Thermo redesign side view.jpg
    Last edited by The Scifi Guy; 11-16-2019 at 08:49 AM.
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  9. #67
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    To all who are working on this issue, I say thanks Reading all the posts, there is definitely merit for this to happen. When this gets developed, would there be a group buy

    Keep on Opeling rubber side down and shiny side up
    Make a difference and help someone today
    Dan
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  10. #68
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    The ports were relocated to the bottom of the front due to them pushing the thermostat out from the head and being on the top.

    Two ports on the side for a bypass wouldnt work as they would interfere with the intake.

    As for the nylocks.. not going to work. Just standard SS nuts with a lock washer. The flanged serrated nuts I got are too big for the hole.

    Literally this was designed to be as tight to the head as possible for both looks and to allow for more room in the engine bay.
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  11. #69
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    I'm taking a grinder to it as soon as I get it, in it's present form. I might even "egg out" the top side of the bolt holes so that I can angle bolts in there. Allen bolts and a ball-tipped allen wrench ought to do the trick.
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  12. #70
    Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer GoinManta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    I'm taking a grinder to it as soon as I get it, in it's present form. I might even "egg out" the top side of the bolt holes so that I can angle bolts in there. Allen bolts and a ball-tipped allen wrench ought to do the trick.
    Looks like a little modification will be in order. But will work with allen bolts, and relocating the temp sensor up and a groove for the allen wrench.
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  13. #71
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    Approved!!!
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  14. #72
    Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer GoinManta's Avatar
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    The 6 have been made.. Shipping here shortly. 2 for me, 1 for Gordo, 1 for Patrick, 1 for Wes and 1 for Ken.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by GoinManta; 12-01-2019 at 01:48 PM.
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  15. #73
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    We only have the 2 pictures to go by, but this edited pic I just did should be something like the new configuration of the thermo sensor locations:

    New thermo housings 3.jpg
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  16. #74
    1000 Post Club kwschumm's Avatar
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    I thought I had requested one but, if not, I'll do without. No worries.
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  17. #75
    Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer GoinManta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwschumm View Post
    I thought I had requested one but, if not, I'll do without. No worries.
    YOu did.. and you were the one I was looking for. I specially posted my best guesses

    Email me so we can get the address and such sorted out.
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  18. #76
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    Charles, you have me down for one, don't you? Oops. RIF! Didn't read the earlier post. Sorry

    Wes
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  19. #77
    Opeler krewzer's Avatar
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    Those look sweet! Payment?
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  20. #78
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    FREE!

    It's Christmas!

    Woo-hoo!

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  21. #79
    Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer GoinManta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    FREE!

    It's Christmas!

    Woo-hoo!

    Free..?!

    210 euro and shipping ( about $250 ) and that isnt including shipping from VA to you..

    LOL that said, anyone else interested may have a few more made in December when the guy with the CNC machine will be sitting it up to run AL again and have a few spots open.

    Cost maybe about the same got to find out how much time and effort went into the first batch. I absorbed some cost because I wanted to get them made for me.
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    '92 Senator B - "Professor"
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    '72 Opel GT - "Red Baron"

    In the past owned:
    '04, '05, '06 Pontiac GTO
    2 Bitters (#491/#439)
    '73 Commodore GS
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    & many many other Opels and a even few GTs
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  22. #80
    Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer GoinManta's Avatar
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    There here..



    They are here and fit like a glove. May notice the rear isn't tapped.

    That is deliberate so you can tap it for whatever you plan to do with that one.

    If you want a AN fitting, a 3/8" or 1/2" NPT, or a custom sensor, or just to plug it.. This way no one has to cobble together anything back there.

    Getting some bolts for everyone so its easy to bolt on.
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    Last edited by GoinManta; 4 Weeks Ago at 11:37 PM.
    CURRENT
    '71 Opel Kadett 4 Door 36D (2.0 L w/ EFI & Auto) - "Mary Ann"
    '92 Senator B - "Professor"
    '74 Opel Manta - "Barbara"
    '72 Opel GT - "Red Baron"

    In the past owned:
    '04, '05, '06 Pontiac GTO
    2 Bitters (#491/#439)
    '73 Commodore GS
    ATLAS ( 74 Manta w/ 2.8L LK5 )
    & many many other Opels and a even few GTs
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