Motorized Hood Mod
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Thread: Motorized Hood Mod

  1. #1
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Motorized Hood Mod

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    One of the things I like best about Opels is that the headlights are manually operated. Chunk-Chunk.

    I don't really get automated hood openers. First, how often is one opening hoods, to necessitate this? Second, how difficult is it to open a hood? If one is able to drive. Automatic windows, locks, etc, because those are done while driving or approaching the vehicle or leaving the vehicle and take time. But automated hood opening? I'm already stuck there doing whatever I opened the hood to do. Third, it's slower. If It was like a mousetrap, BANG and the hood is popped open, okay, now you've got my attention.

    That said, I will always be in favor of robotic slavery. Makes me feel like an emperor. "Minion! Open my hood!" And the robot slave runs on its hamster wheel to crank it open. Automation is awesome.

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    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    One reason is that it's a car show thing to show off. Another is the enjoyment of the challenge of doing it, much like your project. I and a number of others do ridiculous mods just for the sake of doing them.

    Does anyone have that video of that powered pop-out rear side window mod that someone did?

    I think they were air actuated, but maybe they used servos.
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    Bikini Inspector Frozen Tundra GT's Avatar
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    wayne tormans purple GTthat drinkman owns now. there is a write up out there somewhere.

    all electric.
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    Opeler V8GT's Avatar
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    Here is a short description of the elec. hood mod.
    A cheap linear actuator with 4 inch stroke make the trick. One like this sort:
    https://www.amazon.com/s?k=linar+act...f=nb_sb_noss_2

    A little more complicated is the electric unlocking mechanism for the hood, which is strictly necessary. I use a small actuator from a BMW E46 Coupe (rear vent window).
    Pic 1 & 2: BMW actuator and manufactured linkage

    As a backup, it is always still possible to open(and close) the hood manually by hand. I manage this by decoupling the actutors mecanical in direction open.
    On this two pics (3 & 4) it is visible how it works. A bearing slides on a additional rod, which is attached in front of the actuator. The rod is of course a little bit longer than the actuator stroke.
    Pic 3: Actuator Position manually complete open Hood
    Pic 4: Actuator Position electric complete open Hood

    Controls:
    Pic 5: Under dash switch - open & close
    Pic 6: Close button in engine compartment (and a remote, visible in Video)

    It is mostly unknown -
    that back in the days Opel itself converted two GT with a electical hood to display on car shows in 1968. Both cars were also equipped with a slow runing automatic headlight device.
    Here is a Video from the 1969 Brussels Motor Show:
    https://www.filmothek.bundesarchiv.d...87?set_lang=de
    At 2:58 Minutes appears the GT show car with automatic runing hood and headlight
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by V8GT; 04-12-2019 at 03:27 AM.

  8. #6
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Nice work Jose!


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    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Okay Jose, you are now going to have to show us a lot more pictures of the cool stuff on your car. I see a burled walnut instrument panel cover and a VERY nice cover under the dash where your switch is. What other cool things are hiding from us?



    I like your idea of one linear actuator going to a rod that goes through both hood hinges. Very strong and balanced.

    I do not understand how you can open the hood by hand. Do you have to disconnect the linear actuator? Will the actuator let you lift the hood when it has no power? If your battery dies, can you still open the hood?


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    Pedal Smasher Autoholic's Avatar
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    I agree with Gordo, we need more details on your car. I might have pics actually of your wood veneer dash before it was installed...
    "Autoholism is an incurable addiction medicated daily with car porn." ~Zeppi (myself)

    1973 Opel GT project car. Plans: 2.5L, Weber 38 DGAS, Getrag 240, Watts link, exterior color - Rainforest Green Pearl, interior color - tan

  11. #9

    Per Request

    I was asked to post more about our rear windows. Here is a post I've done in the past. Sorry, no video. I'll see if I can get one this weekend.

    https://www.opelgt.com/forums/2d-bod...tml#post992729
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    Lifes too short to drive boring cars or drink boring beers. Just don't do them at the same time.

    No boring cars:
    1973 Opel GT
    The non-Opel Collection:
    1966 Lotus Elan S2/SE
    1968 Lancia Fulvia Coupe Rallye 1.3
    1968 Mercedes-Benz 280S
    1969 Alfa Romeo 1750 Spider Veloce
    1973 Triumph TR6
    1973 Porsche 914
    1979 Triumph Spitfire with GT6+ conversion = "Spit6"
    2003 Jaguar XKR
    2005 Lotus Elise

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    Do you have to disconnect the linear actuator?
    I might be wrong, but what I think is happening is that the actuator can push (lengthen) against the bearing in Pic 4 and open the hood, but, if it stays closed (short), you can still pull it open manually (Pic 3). In the manual case, rather than the actuator lengthening, the whole shortened actuator just slides back because it's not secured at the bottom end. It's floating. That is, gravity closes the hood when the actuator lets it, there is no pulling constraint, only pushing.

    If you look at Pic 3, see the space between the end of the actuator and the start of the bearing (follow down the skinny shaft)... if that was in electric mode, you wouldn't see the rod between the actuator and the bearing, the actuator itself would have pushed out that far and be butted against the bearing (like in pic 4, where the actuator shaft is 3x as thick as the skinny shaft). It's like a telescoping tube. The inner tube is the steel bar, the outer tube is the actuator.

    Or I'm out to lunch.
    Last edited by MattsAwesomeStuff; 04-12-2019 at 03:03 PM.
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  13. #11
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Yeah that would make sense.

    I work with linear actuators at work, but ours are air driven, so they're powered by air pressure in both directions. They don't budge if you try to move them at either end of their stroke. But if you bleed off the air pressure you can easily slide them back and forth.

  14. #12
    3000 Post Club norbertone.gt371's Avatar
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    More from interest is,what VIN or chassis number both GT`s used in 1969 with this mod

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    Opeler V8GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    I do not understand how you can open the hood by hand. Do you have to disconnect the linear actuator? Will the actuator let you lift the hood when it has no power? If your battery dies, can you still open the hood?

    Hello Gorden,
    most people dont understand that „decoupling-thing“.
    The actuator is permanent in „direction open“ disconnected. Matts get it and describes exactly how it works in post #10.
    The BMW actuator which unlocks(and locks) the hood latch, works the same way.

    The pic´s shows the telescoping linkage.

    Both actuators only push.
    In the other direction:
    The linkage(hood latch) is pulled back from the original hood latch spring.
    The hood closes only through gravity.
    I have to note that this hood is little bit heavier due to sound damping mats. Ist not that much but what counts is lever arm and this one is very long.
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    Opeler V8GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by norbertone.gt371 View Post
    More from interest is,what VIN or chassis number both GT`s used in 1969 with this mod
    To be honest, i was able to identify the GT-Showcar from the 69 Brussel Motorshow and i know the VIN. I am really not kidding.
    The other one(last pic in post #5) was a GT 1100. Both were pre production cars.

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    they're powered by air pressure in both directions. They don't budge if you try to move them at either end of their stroke.
    I think these are screw-type, (probably double-stage planetary with a pair of spur gears at the bottom). Regardless, same should apply to them here.

    I'm probably not explaining it right.

    I think what you mistakenly think is happening is that the actuator - when unpowered - allows the ram to slide freely. I don't think it does. The ram length still stays short.

    What is actually happening is that the locked-short RAM has nothing securing the bottom end of the ram from moving, only the top end. So you can overextend it manually. It's only designed to forcibly push.

    That would mean the bottom end of the ram can just flop about in any direction like a wang in the wind, so you need a thing that makes sure it settles back into the same position against the bumper when the hood is manually closed every. That thing is a much smaller rod that constrains the bottom of the actuator to be always pointing at the bearing. Like, umm, a catheter I suppose. This is a terrible analogy, I'm not comfortable talking about it anymore. Hopefully you understand now.

  18. #16
    Opeler V8GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattsAwesomeStuff View Post
    I think these are screw-type, (probably double-stage planetary with a pair of spur gears at the bottom). Regardless, same should apply to them here.

    I'm probably not explaining it right.

    I think what you mistakenly think is happening is that the actuator - when unpowered - allows the ram to slide freely. I don't think it does. The ram length still stays short.

    What is actually happening is that the locked-short RAM has nothing securing the bottom end of the ram from moving, only the top end. So you can overextend it manually. It's only designed to forcibly push.

    That would mean the bottom end of the ram can just flop about in any direction like a wang in the wind, so you need a thing that makes sure it settles back into the same position against the bumper when the hood is manually closed every. That thing is a much smaller rod that constrains the bottom of the actuator to be always pointing at the bearing. Like, umm, a catheter I suppose. This is a terrible analogy, I'm not comfortable talking about it anymore. Hopefully you understand now.
    You have described it correct.
    I manufactured and added the small sliding-rod-extention to the actuator. They dont come from factory with such an "wackadoodle-option" when you buy them.
    Last edited by V8GT; 04-12-2019 at 08:10 PM.
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    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by norbertone.gt371 View Post
    More from interest is,what VIN or chassis number both GT`s used in 1969 with this mod
    Or maybe even more interesting would be how did Opel do this mod back in 1968/69?

    Are there pictures of one of those cars showing the mod?


  20. #18
    Pedal Smasher Autoholic's Avatar
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    Is this your dash?
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    "Autoholism is an incurable addiction medicated daily with car porn." ~Zeppi (myself)

    1973 Opel GT project car. Plans: 2.5L, Weber 38 DGAS, Getrag 240, Watts link, exterior color - Rainforest Green Pearl, interior color - tan

  21. #19
    Opeler V8GT's Avatar
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    @ Gorden
    Unfortunately i dont know if there exist pic´s from this devices. Keep in mind that this modifications happend now 50 years ago. I gues most people who were involved in this, sadly dont live any more.

    Later i will post some pics from my under dash panel make of.


    @Autoholic
    Yes, this is exact like mine looks. It comes from Lenk.
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  22. #20
    Opeler V8GT's Avatar
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    As promised, here are some pics from my foot room panel(under dash cover) fabrication.

    After the EPS install some years ago, i decide to cover that stuff with a foot panel.
    Finally i opted for a 2 piece design. I made the right side from thin sheet metal. The left side ist a wooden-metal mix.
    Before cover them up with leather, i „soften“ the surface with a layer of foam.
    This is verry important from seafty reasons in case of an haevy accident(car crash).

    The left side has a cutout for access to the fuse box. The cutout is covered withe the original Opel GT fuse cover.
    Later i added a foot room illumination and a „head light-on - ignition-off - door-open“ buzzer.
    I prefer the BMW one because it sounds not that harsh.

    The illlumination is conected to a adjustable delay modul withe dimmer function.
    It also controls the main interior lights. Ligths in plural because i added a second one on left side b pilar.
    The swich for the motorisiered hood come from a Mercedes W124(elec. sliding roof).
    The little „switch-console“ on the transmission tunel , whith in reality is the heater foot room air duct.
    In my case it hosted the EPS controls and other „under dash switches“.
    Over the years i updated this little piece several times. Pic 9 & 10 shows the last version.
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