I'm so pissed off! - Page 11
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Thread: I'm so pissed off!

  1. #201
    Über Genius First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    Yeah that was a misprint and poor eyesight and memory. 13.5 is what my dash's cluster displays.

    I'm going to bypass the fusebox, ignition switch, and all the wiring behind the dash and hot wire the coil positive direct to the battery and see what happens.
    Your Dakota gauges reading low HAS to be a symptom.

    Check grounds...

    Hotwiring won't do dick if your grounds suck.
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    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

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  3. #202
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Today after work I hot wired the coil straight to the battery in order to bypass the ig switch, fuse box, and everything else on the other side of the firewall. Started the car and it ran for 5 minutes before it started to shake, rattle, and roll. Schit. I killed my already questionable battery while I was gone at Carlisle by leaving the radio on and not having my charger hooked up. I charged it over night and it was showing green good-to-go and the voltmeter said 12+V on the instrument cluster, but also flashed a warning of 9V as I was starting it, which promptly disappeared when the engine started and didn't return even though the engine was stumbling and all other indicators, charger included, said my power was just fine. So that leaves the ballast resistor between the coil and the Pertronix idea, a new battery, and the new Chinese carb I ordered as my final next ideas to try.


  4. #203
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    Don't remember what Dakota Digital control unit you have. Searched "Dakota Digital low voltage" and several web sites indicated (for a motorcyle), connect control unit ground directly to battery ground. Most automotive sites indicate to connect to vehicle chassis ground and not directly to the battery.

    Wiring the control box into the vehicle:
    Connect the +12V terminal to accessory power from the fuse panel or vehicle wiring harness.
    This terminal should have power when the key is on or in accessory position.
    In addition to powering display system, this is also where voltmeter gauge senses vehicle electrical system voltage.
    Use 18 AWG or larger wire to ensure the system gets good power.
    Never connect this to a battery charger alone. It needs to have a 12 volt battery connected to it.
    Battery chargers have an unregulated voltage output that will cause the system to not operate properly.

    GROUND:
    This is the main ground for the display system.
    A wire should be run from this terminal to the vehicle’s main ground location at the chassis or engine block.
    Do not use the dash or a dash support brace for the ground connection.
    Use 18 AWG or larger wire to ensure sufficient grounding.
    Proper vehicle grounding is extremely important for the gauges to read and operate correctly.
    The engine block should have heavy ground cables to the battery, frame, firewall, and body.
    Failure to properly ground the engine block or the control box can cause incorrect or erratic operation
    Attached Files Attached Files
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  6. #204
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    At this point, anything could be a cause of my trouble and any troubles I've caused trying to fix my troubles. Investigating the Dakota and grounds or unwanted grounding was actually on my Last Resort list.

    Investigating the Dakota control module and it's connections is actually a valid destination to visit according to the "What Did You Flock With Last?" rule. I had to pull the radio a few months back to install the sub-woofer. There's lots of wires that get pulled on behind my center dash when I take the switch/gauge/radio panels off and the wiring is very tightly spaced at the terminals on the module and multiple wires share some screws. Dakota got back to my customer support email and said that the gauge uses the ACC Power terminal to read voltage and, as your finding states, it compares that to ground.

    I bought a new battery just in case and will install it and start the car and do another run test to see if that was the problem. If that turns out to be the fix for the problem, then the Dakota will have found the problem or at least indicated that there was a problem, while basic voltmeter checks and gauge readings and charger saying "charged" didn't.

    Or more than likely it won't change a dang thing.

    I also bought a 1.4 ohm ceramic ballast resistor. That will go in next if the battery change doesn't pan out.

    I'll be running both tests using the hot wire method to keep variables on the other side of the firewall from muddying the results.

    That should clean the slate in the electrical department.


    Here's my conversation with Dakota:

    <<< Question/Comments/Installation Details: I have a simple question: What inputs does the VHX unit use to determine if I have low voltage? My car is randomly shutting off or suffering bouts of random stumbling. Only at start up, your VHX unit will occasionally flash low voltage warnings of 11v, 9v, 6v. They go away when then engine starts running. I have replaced EVERYTHING in the fuel and ignition system. All of my voltage checks say that my battery(always on a trickle charger)is healthy(12.7v) and that my alternator is charging(14V). Cables and such have been replaced or checked for tightness and integrity and the car always has full electrical function. I have a built in voltmeter and ammeter. If it wasn't for the messages I would have no reason to suspect that anything is wrong with my power. Why does the cluster say that I have low voltage? The answer might be a clue to where to look for the problem. Thanks! >>>

    <<< The voltage gauges reads off of the voltage it sees on the “ACC POWER” terminal. >>>

    <<< Okay. The voltmeter in the cluster read 13.5V when started, I didn't look at it as I turned the key to start, I was only seeing the warning messages in the display screen. Is it possible for the display screen to show me a low voltage warning that is lower than what the voltmeter says? >>>

    <<< It is not possible. Best way to confirm the volt gauge’s reading is to measure voltage while checking the voltage gauge to confirm it’s displaying an accurate reading. >>>
    Last edited by The Scifi Guy; 05-20-2019 at 08:49 PM.
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  7. #205
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Wow, my Chinese carb from Czechoslovakia arrived in one week today and I also picked up the 1.4 ohm ballast resistor I ordered from the parts store. I'll put them both in today and see how things go.....

  8. #206
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    I just got done installing the new battery, started, battled a run of stumbles, then listened to the engine run for 10-15 minutes. I was hearing stutters or small stumbles as I normally have had during this problem, but the engine was running steady. Hmmm....not so bad.....no really big shudders for the past 10 minutes.....and it ain't just shutting off........hey! Let's take it for a spin in the neighborhood.

    I go inside to get the keys for the Solstice that was blocking the driveway and came out and just as I opened the car door.........the GTX shut off.

    Okay, that didn't work, let's install the ballast resistor. About 10 minutes was spent doing a temporary lash-up of the resistor. Car was plenty warmed up. Started the engine. Okay, decent idle, not so bad,...........one minute after starting the engine just turned off.

    Another failure day.

    Next we install the new carb:


    IMG_1355.jpg IMG_1356.jpg


    I have 3 big, must-attend, car events each year: Carlisle, then the next week at my home town Collingswood humongous car show this Saturday, and OctOpelFest in the Fall. I'll have to work my azz off after work to get the carb installed by this Saturday. Gotta get my linkage ball welded to my throttle lever at the same time by the local muffler shop.


  9. #207
    Über Genius First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Didn't you say you had a sticky lifter?

    Doesnt metal expand when it gets hot?

    Couldn't a sticky lifter seem fine until warmed up?

    Did you consider doing an oil change?
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  10. #208
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Well, of course, no sane person would tear into his engine until ruling out fuel and spark as the cause for an intermittant stumbling and stalling problem. After the carb is installed and I fail again, those 2 items will be off the table and the only thing left to do will be to tear into the engine.

    And I'm not optimistic about my chances of finding an intermittent problem there. Remember I've already spent quite a bit of time and taken videos of my attempts at finding the tapping lifter sound I hear.

    I'm sure I'll fail at finding anything wrong during a peripheral engine autopsy, but I'll give it another go.

    After that I'll be forced to take it to the local Opel dude's shop.


  11. #209
    Senior Member The Cub's Avatar
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    You’ll get a good look at your intake and (exhaust ports if replacing the gasket), take some pics if you have room. The condition of those spark plugs would indicate a heavy soot build up. On my rebuilt 2.0 I cleaned what I could when I had everything off, a small wire brush and some solvent worked pretty well. I was running it rich also with that 160 main, I’ve been back to a 140 after seeing that, with a lot better throttle response. If they’re already clean it will be a good testimony for Seafoam. I re edited this because not being accustomed to the side draft, it now just dawned on me that you may not remove any manifolds, You might consider it having a manifold gasket handy anyway, maybe with a flashlight you can get a good enough look through the intake manifold, evaluate then decide if you want to get in closer. I think those manifold to head gaskets are inexpensive at OGTS. Always good to have one on hand.
    Last edited by The Cub; 05-22-2019 at 12:30 PM.
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  12. #210
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Spanish 45DCOE carb removed, pics of my special offset linkage rod adapter and the bolt on ball post to replace the one that had become unscrewed and snapped off, the ball post after the local muffler shop zapped it to it's lever so that it will never unscrew again, and the Chinese and Spanish carbs side by side. I'll swap the jets, gizmos, chromy stuff, and idle/mixture settings over to the new Chinese carb and install it tomorrow when I get home from work:


    IMG_1358.jpgIMG_1359.jpgIMG_1360.jpgIMG_1361.jpgIMG_1362.jpgIMG_1363.jpg

  13. #211
    4,000 Post Club norbertone.gt371's Avatar
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    Conectors, Plus-wires or relais???

    Hi Gordon
    I show the video from engine shut off to Hartmut.
    He ask me if you use a electric fan with temp.relais, what have the same wire circuit as the ignition.
    He mean you have a lose conector,wire or a fail relais.When the engine warm up is nothing but when the engine goes warm it looks like you get a switched power to the ignition power. Power plus Power is zero!

    Maybe maybe I be not a binaer thinker

  14. #212
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    I put the new carb on with all the jets and settings swapped over. It ran like crap. Fuel was pouring out my barrels. YouTubers and PJ said that I can't just swap stuff and expect it to work the same, I'll have to go through the whole laborious tuning/jetting process. I also need to verify the precise opening and closing of my fuel bowl valve and float. Apparently it's super important that it be accurate to 2-3 mm, otherwise the fuel mixture will go too lean if too low or go super rich if too high.

    I readjusted the mix much lower and it ran much better, but I have to verify the fuel bowl float height is right and tune it if it's not after work today.

    And I have to do all this assuming that my stumbling/stalling problem is gone and I have a healthy engine and systems.

    My big home town car show is TOMORROW.

    Oy........


  15. #213
    Opeler Will I. Finish's Avatar
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    Congratulations on the show - car looks great.
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  16. #214
    4,000 Post Club norbertone.gt371's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post

    My big home town car show is TOMORROW.

    Oy........

    Just take your Opel Bike and towe Das Boot with Snoopy!
    Then smöke a pipe and
    Keep Calm and enjoy
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  17. #215
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    After looking at your YouTube video with the gas flooding into the venturis, I would be looking at float level or the fuel pump pressure being too high.
    Too much gas>>rich mixture>>fouling plugs>>stumbling and stalling.


  18. #216
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by norbertone.gt371 View Post
    Hi Gordon
    I show the video from engine shut off to Hartmut.
    He ask me if you use a electric fan with temp.relais, what have the same wire circuit as the ignition.
    He mean you have a lose conector,wire or a fail relais.When the engine warm up is nothing but when the engine goes warm it looks like you get a switched power to the ignition power. Power plus Power is zero!

    Maybe maybe I be not a binaer thinker
    I have an aftermarket fuse box, so there is a dedicated wire to run an electric fan. That wire goes to the fan controller and it turns on the fan at 160*-180*. I have not hit that temperature during my tests or drives, so the fan has never needed to turn on. The engine fan and the nice 75* temperatures we have had do not let the temperature get that high.

  19. #217
    Senior Member The Cub's Avatar
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    It looks like you’re really on the right track! You’re ignition side appears to be sound, perhaps the float in your first Weber DCOE caused you more trouble than you thought? Here’s an excellent tuning article I found on your carburetor, when you’re fine tuning and when you get your car rockin & rolling again. Weber DCOE Carburetor Reference: Theory, Configuration,Tuning & Reference Documents
    HTH

  20. #218
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Well, I don't know about being on the right track, but it has a lot of potential.

    If this carb is going to want all new jetting and all new mixture settings and a fuel regulator set at 2psi and fuel bowl float adjustment and all of this on an engine set up that was nice and stable and super drivable for 3 years and all my woes mysteriously go away, then what the heck was going on the past 3 years? Why would I have to radically change all of the settings and gizmos to basically get the car to run as good as it did the past 3 years with a very different set up?

    Fuel injection is starting to look very appealing at this point.


  21. #219
    Can Opeler Knorm65's Avatar
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    If you do fuel injection you will still have to tune and wire and be super fed up trying to get it to work too.
    The jetting on the China carb should be about the same as the 40 DCOE as long as you swapped everything over. The accelerator pump, pump exhaust, aux Venturi, venturi, etc.
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  22. #220
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    I can't make any determination about my jetting because I didn't have any jets in a super large size that no one ever uses, so the tuner dude had to drill out my largest jets to make the engine run right. Since I am now going to have to self school myself in side draft jetting of an SSD on a 2.5 CIH, which NO ONE has and for which there are no established guide lines for, and because I have no ear for when one of these engines is running right, I'm going to now have to buy schitloads of jets and get myself an exhaust analyzer.

    This will, of course, take me months to do and I will hate every second of it and I'll miss the whole car show season and I'll have to deal with the wagon project and I will probably drain the gas and say "flock it" and shelve the whole car until next year.

    I am SO pissed off!






    (Yes, I'm a drama queen)

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