1971 GT - 2.4 "Legere" Stroker - Weber DCOE45 - Getrag - Compufire - S10 Clutch - Custom Racetec pistons
1972 Corvette Stingray (Ok, it's the wife's), 2009 Audi A4 Quattro, 1976 Austin Mini 1000, 1969 Mini Cooper (in progress)
FYI: I got this message from the Chinese carb supplier. I removed the cold start mechanism when I installed it, so it had no effect on my tuning troubles. Most people don't seem to use the cold start device, so this is irrelevant to most. I no longer have the Chinese model 152 on the car, so this is just an FYI.
<<< Sorry to inform you we found issue on the 40/45 DCOE batch. Your carburetor may be affected as well.
The pin on cold start device may get loose, which may cause cold start plunger to stuck in open position, which will ruin the engine.
Easy fix needed to prevent this to happen - please dismantle cold start unit and punch the other end of pin to prevent it to slide out. See attachment.
Sorry for troubles >>>
'clearly not detonating with regularity'? It should NEVER be detonating.
210 psi cranking compression is FAR TOO HIGH for carburated and pump fuel, especially if this is an iron headed engine. Even with FI and/or an aluminum headed engine, that level of pressure is going to need some detuning and/or timing control. I am really stunned that this tuner guy does not consider 200+ psi compression numbers as a danger sign. Does he build engines? I am thinking not....
"Mira," 1970 Opel GT Working ARA AC, European 2.0L and Midikit
"Kara," 1972 Opel GT Targa, Welded Doors, Rhinolined, 40 DCOE SSD
I just talked with Charlie and we're going to put the head from the 2.2 I bought from him on my 2.4 and do a rough hook up of the Motronic FI. I'll spend the Winter refining the hook up. Man, I really liked that SSD set up, but it's time to move on. F'ing around with engines is not my comfort zone, interest zone, or fun zone, and it's killing my Opel enthusiasm. I'm getting old and I need to push the easy button. No, it won't actually be easy and I'm going to have to spend a bunch of time and a little money getting it all to work and look the way I want it to. That's the plan for now......
After about $7000 spent on that used OGTS engine and it's rebuild and troubles thereafter I'm starting to feel that that engine, or at least the head, is cursed.. It doesn't leak one drop of oil after 2 years and disconnecting my auto tranny is a chore. I'm sick and tired of dropping my engines. Apparently you are relatively new to my 10 year saga and haven't read my travails. See my humongous "Gordo's GTX" thread. The new head will have the same Omega cam as the 2.4 and the Omega Motronic FI that ran it. My present head was one of the first, if not THE first engine Charlie's machine shop did and maybe some mistakes were made. The oil plugs popping out was just one that we know of.
Long story shorter, it would simply be quicker and a little easier and I'll have the 2.4 engine from an Opel Omega(refurbished as a 2.5 with bigger valves) and a hybrid of the Motronic FI that a 2.4 Opel Omega has. It's a hybrid because the Motronic intake manifold won't fit under a GT's hood, so I have to use either a 2.0 or 2.2 Jetronic or a cut down to 4 cylinders oversized manifold from a 3.0 6 cylinder Opel CIH engine. Charlie will bring all those options up here and we'll see which one fits and looks the best. I'm fuzzy on all the details of all of this, it's Charlie's job to figure all this stuff out and install it. He's already been paid to take care of it all. If we see reason to believe that the 2.4 short block needs to come out, I could always default to putting the whole 2.2 engine in, but the block isn't ready yet and who knows when it will be. I have no idea when we'll do all of this, it could happen in 2 weeks or 2 months from now, it depends on the weather, parts gathering, and our individual schedules.
My head is spinning from all of this engine trouble and install nonsense that I've been going through since May and I'm totally burned out from it all.
Last edited by The Scifi Guy; 3 Weeks Ago at 08:33 PM.
You lose your dreams, you lose your mind. (The Rolling Stones)
I’m thinking you want to clean up your FI thread and further comments on your engine might be more appropriate here. I didn’t think you’d leave anyone hanging on the details, I’d definitely have to walk away for probably much longer than you did. This whole story has been downhill, I’m not sure why all this happened but to me it seemed like trouble with the lower end once your tuner guy did the wet compression test. I’m sure this was a difficult decision you just had to make. You can always do the tear down once you get the engine out or send it to the machine shop who put it together and get more details. I’d be very curious to get more details if it happened to me. Good decision and I’m backing you 100% on this one. You’ve got a good guy (Charles) on your side here. Maybe you can get some return $ on this engine down the road when you cross that bridge. Best of luck.
In post #111 of this thread I removed the head and decided that there were enough internal engine issues that it would be best to start over with a whole new engine and go FI.:
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