I'm so pissed off! - Page 3
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Thread: I'm so pissed off!

  1. #41
    Site Founder Gary's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    Hmmm.....looking at my picture...

    Attachment 381493

    I don't see a good place to ground the plate.

    Do I really need to do this?

    Funny thing, when I was rev'ing the engine in my video, I could have sworn I heard the crack/snap sound of spark jumping a gap. Almost as though capacitance was building up in something and then discharging. I looked for lightning bolts and I didn't find any loose ones or any laying under the car.

    Is that heat discoloration or rust on the module?

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  3. #42
    4,000 Post Club norbertone.gt371's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post

    Funny thing, when I was rev'ing the engine in my video, I could have sworn I heard the crack/snap sound of spark jumping a gap. Almost as though capacitance was building up in something and then discharging. I looked for lightning bolts and I didn't find any loose ones or any laying under the car.

    Most you can not see the hair cracks in the distributor caps.That cracks can open more when the engine have more temp.
    Don`t buy such aftermarket caps.Or this chromie ones.Most you paid two times!
    I ever have a extra cap and rotor with a set new spark wires in the shelf from my GT.

    Oh oh
    I missing my GT after only one week she is gone for the swap
    Today big brake parts and new trans rear bracket arrived from Splendid.Just two days for delivery
    Gary, JudokaJohn and The Scifi Guy like this.


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    1000 Post Club kwschumm's Avatar
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    It's not a bad idea to open the hood and run the engine in the dark to look for lightning bolts
    Thurston County, WA, effective motto: "Gophers, Gophers Über Alles"

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  6. #44
    Can Opeler Knorm65's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by norbertone.gt371 View Post
    Most you can not see the hair cracks in the distributor caps.That cracks can open more when the engine have more temp.
    Don`t buy such aftermarket caps.Or this chromie ones.Most you paid two times!
    I ever have a extra cap and rotor with a set new spark wires in the shelf from my GT.

    Oh oh
    I missing my GT after only one week she is gone for the swap
    Today big brake parts and new trans rear bracket arrived from Splendid.Just two days for delivery
    Agreed! I’ve ordered the colorful clear distributor caps and wires from a certain parts place for my Opel before. The freaking wires were steel cored and the cap visibly jumped sparks from day one.

    The only caps that work for more than a year are the original Bosch style ones. OGTS still sells them. No where else has them. The ones rock auto sells are also trash.
    JudokaJohn and The Scifi Guy like this.
    "Mira," 1970 Opel GT Working ARA AC, European 2.0L and Midikit
    "Kara," 1972 Opel GT Targa, Welded Doors, Rhinolined, 40 DCOE SSD, Working GM AC

  7. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    Hmmm.....looking at my picture...

    Attachment 381493

    I don't see a good place to ground the plate.

    Do I really need to do this?

    Funny thing, when I was rev'ing the engine in my video, I could have sworn I heard the crack/snap sound of spark jumping a gap. Almost as though capacitance was building up in something and then discharging. I looked for lightning bolts and I didn't find any loose ones or any laying under the car.
    If available, use braided ground wire (instead of regular wire) for distributor ground/ grounding strap.
    Attach to bolt that you used to plug condenser hole or use the threaded hole that secured condenser.

    Google: Why are ground straps (often) braided? Opinions vary?

  8. #46
    Bikini Inspector Frozen Tundra GT's Avatar
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    A couple years back I reported and informed opelers against the use of chrome caps.

    Quite the jolting experience adjusting timing.
    JudokaJohn and The Scifi Guy like this.

  9. #47
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lindsay View Post
    If available, use braided ground wire (instead of regular wire) for distributor ground/ grounding strap.
    Attach to bolt that you used to plug condenser hole or use the threaded hole that secured condenser.

    Google: Why are ground straps (often) braided? Opinions vary?

    Excellent question. I have handfuls of ground straps from work that look exactly like our cars' straps. They appear to be normal chromyish plated copper. The machines at work have them everywhere, especially on steel access doors that we frequently open. My knee jerk answer is that woven/twisted/braided wire can handle being twisted and bent better than one big wire. The wiggling and vibration in an engine compartment would warrant flexible grounding to certain things, like from the wiggling engine to the fixed chassis. If one wire breaks there's plenty of others to ground the power. I suppose there's also the skin/surface effect thing that suggests that power flows along the surface of wiring, so the more surface there is the easier power can flow. Lots of little wires have more exterior surface than one big wire.
    Last edited by The Scifi Guy; 04-17-2019 at 02:16 PM.

  10. #48
    Resident Curmudgeon Opelmel's Avatar
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    Gordo, I had the same problem with my GT and my Manta. One Pertronix, one Hot Spark. They worked great when they worked, but both of them after a period of time did the "sputter and die" routine, usually after about 1/2 hour of running.

    I replaced them with old fashioned points, rotor and condenser and the problem went away on both.

    Good luck with yours!
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  11. #49
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    The other day I went out to investigate the possibility of a grounding issue with the diz and took the pics below:

    My diz with AccuFire (3).jpg My diz with AccuFire (4).jpg My diz with AccuFire (5).jpg My diz with AccuFire (6).jpg My diz with AccuFire (7).jpg

    So there appears to be a main plate inside the diz that is held in place by the 2 screws that attach the cap clips, thereby grounding the plate to the housing. The disabled vacuum advance has been riveted and I think spot welded to the main plate. The mechanical advance is underneath the plate doing it's mech advance thing. The ignition trigger(AccuFire) was bolted to the main plate, so it can ground through it if it needs to it. So that leaves the chromed(meaning: good conducting) diz clamp and it's chromed bolt, the bolt's connection to the block, and the timing gear engaging the crankshaft as the potential ground connections to the block. I think I'm grounding pretty good, but I could add a ground strap from the bolt to the block or chassis for added peace of mind.
    Last edited by The Scifi Guy; 04-22-2019 at 07:24 PM.

  12. #50
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    I just got my Pertronix 3. Holy cow it's simple. 2 wires, no adjustments, set the rev limiter to what you want. Dang, it's going to be weird SIMPLIFYING my ignition system by deleting the MSD box.

    Here's the instructions:

    Pertronix Ignitor 3 Instructions (1).jpg Pertronix Ignitor 3 Instructions (2).jpg Pertronix Ignitor 3 Instructions (3).jpg

    And here is the latest diagram of my engine compartment wiring:

    Engine Compartment Wiring Update 2-23-19.jpg

    So it looks like I should do this:

    1) Disconnect the 2 wires that directly connect the MSD box to the battery
    2) Disconnect and remove the 2 wires going from the MSD to the coil
    3) Disconnect and remove the AccuFire and it's 2 wires and their connection to the MSD
    4) Disconnect the pink wire from my fuse box that powers the AccuFire. This wire would normally would go to the (+) positive terminal of the coil to power it.
    5) Disconnect the purple wire that goes to my tach.
    6) Remove the MSD box or just leave it there for now with nothing plugged into it.

    Then.....

    1) Install the Pertronix in the dizzy. Change the 5500 rpm limit if I want to after I wire it in.
    2) Attach the red wire from the Pertronix and the pink power wire to the (+) positive terminal of the new Pertronix coil.
    3) Attach the black Pertronix wire to the (-) negative terminal of the diz.

    Uhhhhhh........

    Where do I attach the purple wire that goes to the tach? To the (-) negative coil terminal with the Pertronix black wire?

  13. #51
    Bikini Inspector Frozen Tundra GT's Avatar
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    yes....
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  14. #52
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    Did the new Pertronix fix your issue, Gordo?

  15. #53
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    I installed the Pertronix today after work. Not a car show ready hook up, but just enough wire trimming to test it out. Turned the key. Nothing. Rotated the dizzy all over the place. Nothing. Grab the instructions. Oh, dumbass, the rev limiter needs to be set to my desired rpms: Turn the key to Run, but don't Start, back and forth with the rev limit screw, set it at 6200rpm, let it's LED cycle a bunch of times, and then turn the key to off to write the setting into memory, then the car will be allowed to start. Turn the key. Nothing. Rotate the dizzy all over the place. Nothing. Notice the rotor is sitting on the workbench. DUMBASS! Install the rotor, return dizzy to where it was before I dicked with it. The car started right up. Fiddled with the diz timing and a minute later it was purring smooth as a kitten. Test drives to come.

    Only time will tell if I have cured my phantom engine shut offs.


  16. #54
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Oh, by the way, my tach isn't working. You guys probably can't help me because my instrument cluster is electronic. I'll check wiring and read manuals. I'll find the issue.

  17. #55
    Can Opeler Knorm65's Avatar
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    I bet you’ll get that tach working. I’m sure it’s just a minor wiring change needed. It’s just a signal from the negative side of the coil strait to the tachometer typically.

    Let us know if you notice any difference between your MSD and Pertronix.
    Going from pertronix 1 to 3 on my car was night and day. Huge improvement in idle and above 5000rpm performance.
    The Scifi Guy likes this.
    "Mira," 1970 Opel GT Working ARA AC, European 2.0L and Midikit
    "Kara," 1972 Opel GT Targa, Welded Doors, Rhinolined, 40 DCOE SSD, Working GM AC

  18. #56
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    I only had the car running for a minute or two, but when I dialed in the timing it did seem to run remarkably smooth at idle considering that the car wasn't even close to being warmed up.

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  19. #57
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    I only had the car running for a minute or two, but when I dialed in the timing it did seem to run remarkably smooth at idle considering that the car wasn't even close to being warmed up.
    Well thanks for the cliffhanger! I hope you prevail, Avengers-style. Otherwise I'll give the same advice as @Opelmel, go back to points, rotor and condenser.

    Cheers.

  20. #58
    4,000 Post Club norbertone.gt371's Avatar
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    Hey Gordon
    Look at this here! Good old points! Hard core guy`s,full my taste!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mv9Qd_xCIyo

    THAT IS OPEL!!!
    Knorm65 and GTeglman like this.


    Schöne Grüße an alle Flachkadetten!

  21. #59
    Bikini Inspector Frozen Tundra GT's Avatar
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    rrossjr likes this.

  22. #60
    Hoosier Opeler Site Supporter rrossjr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by norbertone.gt371 View Post
    Hey Gordon
    Look at this here! Good old points! Hard core guy`s,full my taste!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mv9Qd_xCIyo

    THAT IS OPEL!!!
    Cool video Norbert, Thanks for the link. There were about 10 times in the video where I was convinced that they were going to set
    that old GT on fire, including the last shot with the headlights brightly illuminated with at least 30 year old wires. I am impressed that they
    actually got it running without spending more than a few bucks and a few hours labour. As I said before, these Opel CIH engines are pretty robust,
    Cheers,
    Ron in Indy

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