I'm so pissed off!
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  1. #1
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    I'm so pissed off!

    My darn engine did it's phantom sputtering and engine shut down thing again! 20 minutes on the highway at 80 and a miss. Then another miss. And another. Then a several second shut down. The okay for a 1/2 mile. Then a miss. Then a shut down. Etc., etc. etc.........

    WTF!

    Last week I won a whole car show and drove 100mph for 1/2 an hour on the way home and not a single problem.

    Dammit!

    I had to stop or I stalled 5 times on the 30 mile ride home. I stopped at my brother's house on the way home and gave the car a good cool down before continuing home with my brother following me for the 15 minute ride to my house. It started acting up and let out a loud backfire, then it stalled at a red light real bad and wouldn't start, then erupted to life, then stalled a block later. We smoked a cigarette, restarted, and drove the last 5 miles home. It started sputtering 1/4 mile from home. I blew all the neighborhood stop signs and roared into my garage.

    What the heck is the problem?

    I had filled the tank before I left with Mobil premium. Remember my problem with my fuel tank not venting? Could it be that problem again? I fixed the venting and haven't had that problem for several years now. The carb is clean as a whistle inside, new fuel pump, filters are spotless. I can't imagine that I have a clogged jet. How could that cause the engine to shut down completely for just a few seconds, then return to normal, then stall entirely, then wait a few minutes and run normally for 5-10 minutes, etc.? I have a single side draft set up, if one jet was clogged then only half the cylinders would be starved, I wouldn't think that would cause total, brief, engine shut down, then disappear a few minutes later.

    The instant shut downs with the tach diving to zero and then immediately returning to normal tells me it's an ignition problem. It's shutting off intermittantly. The fact that I can drive for 20 minutes or more when I first start driving before it acts up tells me it's heat thing. Waiting for a few minutes on the side of the road and restarting with no problems reinforces this belief. The problem's return 5-10 minutes later reinforces my belief that something is heating up and starting to malfunction.

    Is it my MSD box? I've got a spare new one in the basement.

    Is it my 10 year old Accu-Fire ignition trigger? I'm leaning towards replacing that and getting a Pertronics. It's one of the few things that has been with my RB and GTX cars right from the start of my re-entry into Opeling 10+ years ago.

    Remember when my car died coming back from Carlisle pulling it's trailer and I had to get the whole kit and kaboodle towed the final 3 miles home because apparently I was using the wrong ohmage coil for my MSD? It appeared to have boiled out it's oil. I put the recommended ohmage one on 2 years ago. I grabbed the coil, MSD, dizzy, and alternator after the last shut down and all seemed to be the same moderate temperature.

    Ooooo man am I pissed off! Nothing is worse than an intermittant electrical problem or any other kind of problem. How do you diagnose and pin point the problem when it disappears for days or weeks or whole driving seasons at a time?

    I haven't touched the car since that previous car show when it ran great and trouble free all day. The only difference is that I topped off the tank. Did I not fix my venting problem as good as I thought?

    So, two things for me to investigate and replace: Replace the trigger and make sure the tank is venting freely.


    So, where should I buy a Pertronics from and what type? I hear that there's a Pertronics 3 version that doesn't resent being left turned on with the engine not running and other benefits. Does OGTS have that type? Should I get one off of Ebay?


    Here's a video right after I pulled into the garage with the engine still left running. You'll have to listen really closely to hear the occasional misses:

    https://youtu.be/ETWueCiw0Tk
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  3. #2
    Bikini Inspector Frozen Tundra GT's Avatar
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    sounds like you're on the right path. I just bought Pertronix 3. You need to use .32 ohm coil with it. is it compatible with msd? I dunno. I shopped for prices and they are set from manufacturer with MSRP. There is no deals out there. I literally bought a week ago.

    150 for pertronix 3 71847v and $50 for chrome coil #44001. black coil is #44011. If anybody wants a new black coil, I bought one by mistake. $35 shipped.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pertronix-3...72.m2749.l2649

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pertronix-4...ss!54115!US!-1

  4. #3
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    Try a new lead between the coil and distributor and if that doesn't help, an other coil.

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    Opeler
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    https://www.opelgt.com/forums/member...ml#post1340314

    https://dunebuggywarehouse.com/pertr...rs-71847v.html
    Pertronix Ignitor III Electronic Ignition Unit for Vacuum Advance Distributors 71847V

    Pertronix Ignitor III Flame-Thrower Coil (Chrome) PET-44001. Black coil is #44011.
    Pertronix 40,000 volt, .32-Ohm oil-filled coil is a great choice for your high performance ignition system. Legal in all 50 states and Canada. (C.A.R.B. E.O. #D-57-10)
    PLEASE NOTE: This coil can only be used with Ignitor III ignitions or other ignition systems capable of running high voltage low resistance coils. This will not work with most standard electronic ignition systems.

    Forgot your carburetor type?
    https://www.opelgt.com/forums/member...ml#post1342130
    Quote Originally Posted by P.J. Romano View Post
    Nuts holding DCOE carburetors are prone to go loose due to vibrations. Dbilas intakes come with short but pretty strong springs on the mounting studs. Those springs prevent nuts going loose. Redline anti-vibration kit also comes with some kind of double spring washers.

    I also found that the O-rings that come between carb and intake, go hard causing air leak. I replaced them with Viton rings which are much more resistant to the heat and petrol. Those rings are available in many sizes and thicknesses. I chose a tad thicker size as Viton rings are very pliable.
    Last edited by Lindsay; 04-14-2019 at 01:21 PM.
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  7. #5
    4,000 Post Club norbertone.gt371's Avatar
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    It would be not better with add a next part in a long list with in my eyes not compartible parts.
    If I was you,I would do a big cut here.
    Go to ONE Ignition out of ONE hand and not all this mish mash you have done.
    I remember the burned trigger in 2016,then the hot coil,and now your opinion is the MSD box!
    Oh yes she is chromie,but you didn`t know if the system work at all.
    You start a next thread here and get a lot of stuuf you can add.But for sure,take only ONE
    I say NOOOOOOOOOO this mish mash will never work fine as know from my Opel expirence knowledge.

    MAKE A REAL CUT NOW!There are a lot of good systems on the Market.But take only one and it would be good for long time!

    But one I have too:You never change the tank Outlet.All Cih engine up from 2.0 E need a 12mm pipe and not a 8mm like the stock 1.9 have!!!!!!!!!!!!! special a 2.2 or 2.4 need more stuff to work with out fuell suction problems!So your 2.5 is pissed off with the owner

    Only for interest
    Norbert

  8. #6
    Member ejota's Avatar
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    Check the ground to the electronic ignition. I had a similar issue with an old connector that wasn’t making a good ground connection on the coil and would wiggle loose during driving. Always happened about 20 minutes into the drive. Hopefully it’s a simple fix, Gordo!

  9. #7
    Opeler SpringGT's Avatar
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    Since the only change that you made in between the car running fine and stalling was to fill up with Mobil premium, that might be an area to look at too. Unhook your fuel pump outlet and pump a gallon or so of fuel into a clear glass container, let it sit for a few minutes and see if there is water at the bottom of the container. Whatever it is, I wish you a speedy resolution!
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  10. #8
    Senior Member The Cub's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpringGT View Post
    Since the only change that you made in between the car running fine and stalling was to fill up with Mobil premium, that might be an area to look at too. Unhook your fuel pump outlet and pump a gallon or so of fuel into a clear glass container, let it sit for a few minutes and see if there is water at the bottom of the container. Whatever it is, I wish you a speedy resolution!
    That was my first thought too. Gordon, I assume that you probably always go to that gas station otherwise you would have suspected that I’ll bet. The changeover is starting up earlier this year to summer gasoline in Ca. so anything is possible. Short of climbing inside of the fuel lines and coil wires yourself I don’t know if many others that know exactly what they’ve got other than yourself. I’d be livid too. Go after the gas, if there’s any possible way of feeding the carburetor when it’s acting up with good fuel from a known source it’s a pretty inexpensive way to start, unless you see another problem proven through troubleshooting that is obvious. I have to run premium in my new 2.0 and dislike doing so only because the pricing is so high of course and most people don’t have to buy it so my guess is, it sits much longer than the 87 ethanol and all. You may find a fuel feed problem with your pump or something else while playing around on the fuel side, crappy gas can drive you nuts, runs good then crappy etc. hope for your sake that’s your issue.

  11. #9
    Über Genius First opel 1981's Avatar
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    It's not a fuel problem. It's an electrical problem.

    First symptom that tells it's an electrical issue is the tach cutting to zero.

    If you run out of fuel (pump or injectors stop working) the tach will slowly fade as the engine slows. Fuel has ZERO effect on the tach.

    Also, the coil rarely can have an effect on the tach.

    The tach is run off the SIGNAL from your trigger device. Pertronix, points, etc, it doesn't matter. Whichever it is, that's what drives the tach.

    The tach will not have a signal if the positive side of the tach doesn't receive a connection but the vehicle will still run. The car doesn't need the tach to run.

    So... By process of elimination, whatever sends a signal to your coil is likely the issue. Start there.

    I don't know didly squat about MSD ignitions so I can't tell you if you should swap it or not but if it were me, I'd probably do it.

    Those stupid intermittent issues are the stuff that will drive you mad.
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    Opel GTs are not GM products
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  12. #10
    2000 Post Club soybean's Avatar
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    Ignition problems

    For what it is worth, I think it is ignition, get back to the pertronicks ignition. I am so pissed, nothing to do with your problems, but in having to learn how to navaigate this new to me forum.

    Humbally yours, Those who know me and if anyone knows know me, I may be dumb, but I am not stupid. I have to make a run to the store for wife who literally saved my life. This Our movie nite together and this is my last post of the night. Thank,you goodnite to all, you who know me, Glad to be back to see/talk to my friends. But the long and the short of it, I am back. Thanks to my wife and son, Jordan to have hit the 1000 post club. Gary, If you need a break, and I will go back to being a moderater status wise, I will Not post to any Drama related posts and Crap, I will just post to Honest, legitamate questions. My only Question is how to use the spell check on here. Keith Ludlem please get in touch with by phone.Roy Bell Has my phone nos. I am gone for the nite. Jarrell
    You lose your dreams, you lose your mind. (The Rolling Stones)

  13. #11
    Member pumpkindriver's Avatar
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    I can't much other than I just completed a 900+ mile trip in my GT and was driving at 90 mph across Dallas to Ft. Worth and not a hiccup. So I'd say the pertronics is pretty good.
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  14. #12
    1000 Post Club tealcarver's Avatar
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    Gordo, it could be as simple ground connection on your ignition system. I am running an optical trigger ignition, and so far it has not let me down. I remember them saying in the instructions to make sure the grounding wire is not insulated in any way. Might even have to take a file to the paint to get a good ground. Good luck, hope it's as simple as the ground.

    Bob
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    OpelGT.com Übermoderator kwilford's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by soybean View Post
    For what it is worth, I think it is ignition, get back to the pertronicks ignition. I am so pissed, nothing to do with your problems, but in having to learn how to navaigate this new to me forum.

    Humbally yours, Those who know me and if anyone knows know me, I may be dumb, but I am not stupid. I have to make a run to the store for wife who literally saved my life. This Our movie nite together and this is my last post of the night. Thank,you goodnite to all, you who know me, Glad to be back to see/talk to my friends. But the long and the short of it, I am back. Thanks to my wife and son, Jordan to have hit the 1000 post club. Gary, If you need a break, and I will go back to being a moderater status wise, I will Not post to any Drama related posts and Crap, I will just post to Honest, legitamate questions. My only Question is how to use the spell check on here. Keith Ludlem please get in touch with by phone.Roy Bell Has my phone nos. I am gone for the nite. Jarrell
    JARRELL!!!! Wow, you've been off this site for, what, 12 years!!!??? We've missed you! Welcome back!
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    Keith Wilford
    Finishing up a bare-metal, nut & bolt rotisserie restoration of my '71 Opel GT; next up is my 28,000 mile Garage Find GT, stored since 1975, which needs a LOT of love...

  16. #14
    Senior Contributor GoldGT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by soybean View Post
    For what it is worth, I think it is ignition, get back to the pertronicks ignition. I am so pissed, nothing to do with your problems, but in having to learn how to navaigate this new to me forum.

    Humbally yours, Those who know me and if anyone knows know me, I may be dumb, but I am not stupid. I have to make a run to the store for wife who literally saved my life. This Our movie nite together and this is my last post of the night. Thank,you goodnite to all, you who know me, Glad to be back to see/talk to my friends. But the long and the short of it, I am back. Thanks to my wife and son, Jordan to have hit the 1000 post club. Gary, If you need a break, and I will go back to being a moderater status wise, I will Not post to any Drama related posts and Crap, I will just post to Honest, legitamate questions. My only Question is how to use the spell check on here. Keith Ludlem please get in touch with by phone.Roy Bell Has my phone nos. I am gone for the nite. Jarrell
    Jarrell, welcome back from me too. I was markandson before the screen name change. Jeff
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    Jeff

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    Senior Contributor GoldGT's Avatar
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    I posted from my phone but I guess it did not make it to the thread. This problem sounds exactly like the one I battled for 4 years although all of the components in your system are different than mine. I would go after the MSD and/or the Pertronics module. Just make sure you only change one thing at a time so you will know which one fixed the issue.
    Jeff

    '73 GT,5spd,Recaro,EDIS4 2.2 EFI MegaSqrt, Ali Flywhl w/S10 Clutch, Elec Fan, Roller Rockers, Venolia Pistons, 6 Cyl Intake w/ Custom Injection, 15" Wheels,F&R Sway Bars,2" Exhaust,1" Sport Spring,Koni Reds,Wilwood Brks,3:90 Gears & Gripper LSD,Rear Disks,Ali Radiator,Hse of Colors - Kandy Pagan Gold.
    123 WHP @ 6800 RPM

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  18. #16
    Member Michael A. Smith's Avatar
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    It certainly sounds like an ignition issue and the fact that the tachometer drops to zero sounds like the problem I had with the 246 Ferrari I once owned (sadly sold before prices soared!). The DinoPlex electronic ignition was so bad from the factory that the car came with a backup points-and-condenser system already in the distributor -- just unhook a couple of wires and reconnect them and you were off again (although with the backup, the tachometer was cut out of the circuit). But when going bad, it did pretty much what you described.

    A loose ground would be a nice discovery, but fairly unlikely unless the components are mounted in an area that receives a significant amount of vibration.

  19. #17
    Über Genius First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Nobody asked so I will.

    Is your distributor actively grounded or passively grounded? Most are passive. All should be actively grounded.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
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    I'm so pissed off!

    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    Nobody asked so I will.

    Is your distributor actively grounded or passively grounded? Most are passive. All should be actively grounded.
    Can you explain how to tell? A quick google revealed nothing.
    "Mira," 1970 Opel GT Working ARA AC, European 2.0L and Midikit
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    4,000 Post Club norbertone.gt371's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    Nobody asked so I will.

    Is your distributor actively grounded or passively grounded? Most are passive. All should be actively grounded.
    Clever,this can declare the burn marks and scratches at the trigger I remember
    Also the zero at the tach.
    And my meaning from the mixed parts makes get more food

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  22. #20
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoldGT View Post
    I posted from my phone but I guess it did not make it to the thread. This problem sounds exactly like the one I battled for 4 years
    Your experience was at the top of the list as I've pondered this problem.

    My tenant had almost the same experience with his Honda.

    I'm going to install a Pertronics 3, investigate the passive/non-passive ground issue, and look into other issues folks have suggested.

    I've suspected that the Accu-Fire trigger might be a little flaky for a number of years now and it will give me peace of mind by replacing it with a more modern, more commonly used and available, module. If that doesn't do the trick, I can always plug in my spare MSD and see how that goes, but, like you, I want to know which device is the culprit. I don't want to do a whole scale swap out and change of everything all at once.

    FO, I love listening to your deductive logic. You make it seem so easy to zero in on the problem.

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      Last Post: 08-26-2002, 08:42 PM

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