The 9 circles of automotive DIY hell - Page 2
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Thread: The 9 circles of automotive DIY hell

  1. #21
    RunOpel dpre's Avatar
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    So in other words Bob, there should not be oil coming out that hole? If the answer is NO HELL NO, then any suggestions on the fix? I was told to use Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant. It works for awhile and then eventually I start getting oil dripping out and I redo again. Getting old, I would like to fix it permanently and hoping I don't have to replace the timing cover.

    Keep on Opeling rubber side down and shiny side up
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  3. #22
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Almost my entire work life as a mechanic has been on machines that have dissimilar metals fastened together with dissimilar metal bolts. All of the machines here at work have steel stuff bolted to aluminum stuff with bolts screwed into the aluminum. Some have aluminum stuff bolted to steel stuff. You pretty much have to use steel bolts on everything 'cuz bolts made out of aluminum, brass, copper, nylon, etc. don't have any strength or durability. Actually, I'd rather try to extract a steel bolt that snapped off in a piece of aluminum, than one that snapped off in a piece of steel.

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  4. #23
    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter RallyBob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dpre View Post
    So in other words Bob, there should not be oil coming out that hole? If the answer is NO HELL NO, then any suggestions on the fix? I was told to use Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant. It works for awhile and then eventually I start getting oil dripping out and I redo again. Getting old, I would like to fix it permanently and hoping I don't have to replace the timing cover.
    Lol. Yup, hell no.

    I would think a thread sealer like you’d use to seal small block Chevy head bolts going into the coolant passages would work.
    I’ve used ARP thread sealer for similar applications.

    That said, if I were going to attempt a permanent repair without removing the timing cover, I’d probably epoxy a 10 mm x 1.5 pitch stud into the timing cover and use a nut to secure the alternator bracket.

    However, this doesn’t guarantee oil won’t seep past the OUTSIDE of the heli-coiled threads thru capillary action.
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  6. #24
    RunOpel dpre's Avatar
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    Thanks Bob, that's what I thought and appreciate ideas to fix the problem. And Gordo, I would agree with your thoughts. I'm thinking the PO must of either stripped the bolt or snapped it off. If so, then tried to drill it out, but drilled to far. How in the crap why or how is beyond me. I bet many of you could relate to a story from a PO screw up.

    Hey Gordo, this might be an interesting poll asking what is the worst PO screw up or something nicer like mistake? I searched and found a couple of similar threads, but nothing specific about a poll.

    Keep on Opeling rubber side down and shiny side up
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  7. #25
    Opeler Bob Dugan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LynnB View Post
    Thanks for posting Ron.

    Good read.

    The only one that really used to get me is the broken bolt, then broken extractor.

    I no longer use screw extractors unless I think the bolt is free enough to work. Always just drill it out, preferably with left hand bits. Sometimes they end up popping free. If I end up damaging threads too badly, then it gets a heli coil.
    I started working on my GT a couple of weeks ago. Broke three bolts so far while being careful. Rust makes a great adhesive.

  8. #26
    RunOpel dpre's Avatar
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    I totally agree Bob, those nasty rotten rusty bolts, especially if you snap off the head. You just want to butt kick yourself Nothing more I hate, is to drill out a bolt when the head snapped off

    Keep on Opeling rubber side down and shiny side up
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  9. #27
    Opeler Yellow73GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    Almost my entire work life as a mechanic has been on machines that have dissimilar metals fastened together with dissimilar metal bolts. All of the machines here at work have steel stuff bolted to aluminum stuff with bolts screwed into the aluminum. Some have aluminum stuff bolted to steel stuff. You pretty much have to use steel bolts on everything 'cuz bolts made out of aluminum, brass, copper, nylon, etc. don't have any strength or durability. Actually, I'd rather try to extract a steel bolt that snapped off in a piece of aluminum, than one that snapped off in a piece of steel.

    Indoors in a climate controlled building, with regular maintenance, yeah no problem.
    Race engines, in most motor sports, are disassembled at minimum every couple years and up to a max of every single quarter mile pass. Far out man, again no problem.
    Mass produced four popper or six cylinders in daily driver no maintenance cars with aluminum heads, steel block, coolant, and 10 years/100,000 miles +, whole different story altogether. I have worked on such a beast and I can say, never again. Not worth the headache for no amount of money, just replace the whole damn engine at that point.. And I am not referring to extracting the bolt from aluminum, I am talking about head bolts, that passed THROUGH an aluminum head into a steel block, and broke off just below the surface, and refused!!! to budge, and not through lack of effort on my and 2 other peoples, efforts.
    Just saying.
    "Be Water, My Friend" Bruce Lee, December 9, 1971

  10. #28
    Opeler Yellow73GT's Avatar
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    They did miss a tenth circle. The noob who ports his head/heads for "more performance" and gets overly enthusiastic with the bur bits or gets unlucky and has a head that hasn't had coolant run through it, just straight tap water, and ports through to the water jacket in the intake port because the straight water didn't prevent the corrosion that rotted away some of the water jacket wall thickness. Now you get to try to fix it or replace it.
    "Be Water, My Friend" Bruce Lee, December 9, 1971

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