The 9 circles of automotive DIY hell
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Thread: The 9 circles of automotive DIY hell

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    Hoosier Opeler Site Supporter rrossjr's Avatar
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    The 9 circles of automotive DIY hell

    The 9 circles of automotive DIY hell

    Yeah, I'm good for 7 of the 9-particularly the "3rd circle"
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    2000 Post Club soybean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rrossjr View Post
    The 9 circles of automotive DIY hell

    Yeah, I'm good for 7 of the 9-particularly the "3rd circle"
    Yeah, put me down for about the same. Esp the carburetor. Just can't stop fiddling with it and timing. I just keep saying "One day I'll get this right" Jarrell
    You lose your dreams, you lose your mind. (The Rolling Stones)
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    Thanks for posting Ron.

    Good read.

    The only one that really used to get me is the broken bolt, then broken extractor.

    I no longer use screw extractors unless I think the bolt is free enough to work. Always just drill it out, preferably with left hand bits. Sometimes they end up popping free. If I end up damaging threads too badly, then it gets a heli coil.
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    Pedal Smasher Autoholic's Avatar
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    Is it easy to wipe a cam lobe on the CIH? Is ZDDP really a big issue for break in?
    "Autoholism is an incurable addiction medicated daily with car porn." ~Zeppi

    1973 Opel GT project car - Plans: 2.5L CIH, Weber 38 DGAS, Getrag 240, Lowered 1", Watts link, exterior color - Rainforest Green Pearl, interior color - tan
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    OpelGT.com Übermoderator kwilford's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Autoholic View Post
    Is it easy to wipe a cam lobe on the CIH? Is ZDDP really a big issue for break in?
    Yes

    And yes...
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    Keith Wilford
    Finishing up a bare-metal, nut & bolt rotisserie restoration of my '71 Opel GT
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    Pedal Smasher Autoholic's Avatar
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    So you should really make sure the cam is installed with plenty of assembly lube and run break in oil to prevent that. Right? And create a priming distributor shaft.
    "Autoholism is an incurable addiction medicated daily with car porn." ~Zeppi

    1973 Opel GT project car - Plans: 2.5L CIH, Weber 38 DGAS, Getrag 240, Lowered 1", Watts link, exterior color - Rainforest Green Pearl, interior color - tan
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    Opel Rallier since 1977
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    Use moly cam lube, not just plain assembly lube for new cams. Get your ZDDP up to the older levels of 1200-1400 PPM, either by buying the oils with it (the best method), or use an additive. One way is by adding 1/2 qt of Rislone Oil Treatment to 4 or 5 qts of SN rated oil; that will get the ZDDP levels up to around 1500 PPM.

    BTW, with stock springs, an older cam & lifter set may do OK. Contact pressure between lifter and cam lobe is part of what 'activates' ZDDP and makes it needed. With low stock spring pressures and stock lobes, cams and lifters often survive just fine. But I'd not risk it with any new cam, and I'd certainly never run higher valve spring pressures or a more aggressive cam without the older levels of ZDDP.
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    Good to see I’m not the only one who does #8, scratching the paint.
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    Hoosier Opeler Site Supporter rrossjr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by soybean View Post
    Yeah, put me down for about the same. Esp the carburetor. Just can't stop fiddling with it and timing. I just keep saying "One day I'll get this right" Jarrell
    Actual photo of me trying to tune a carburetor.
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    RunOpel dpre's Avatar
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    That was a great read and so fitting for Opel restoration. I bet most of us can relate to several of those. I remember when I was removing the original manifold and rounding one of the inside bolts. What a pain in the rear that was. I wanted to severely kick my backside.
    Thanks that was a fun read.
    Dan

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    Quote Originally Posted by rrossjr View Post
    Actual photo of me trying to tune a carburetor.
    Hey, you're left-handed?

    Doug
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    Hoosier Opeler Site Supporter rrossjr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slracer View Post
    Hey, you're left-handed?

    Doug
    I'm amb-destructious. I can screw stuff up equally with both hands.
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    2000 Post Club soybean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rrossjr View Post
    Actual photo of me trying to tune a carburetor.
    Darn Ron, how did you get a picture of me? Jarrell
    You lose your dreams, you lose your mind. (The Rolling Stones)
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    Love the monkey shot.

    This reminds me a a thread I read 10+ years ago related to misuse of tools.

    It was very clever and kind of tongue in cheek. There was one about vise grips, and another that referred to a belt sander as the favorite tool that turns a minor job into a major job.

    Would be nice if I could find it. I think it was on the Garage Journal.
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    Spaceman GTeglman's Avatar
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    Gents,

    The monkey can't be any of us GT aficionados, as it (opposite to any of us) clearly seems to know what it is doing

    Cheers
    Last edited by GTeglman; 08-26-2019 at 09:35 AM.
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    OpelGT.com Übermoderator kwilford's Avatar
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    My all time greatest fear when working on cars is having a thread tap break off while chasing threads. So far, touch wood, that has never happened to me.

    So now I need to search for various sizes of diamond tipped "hole drills", just so I can say I am prepared for Armageddon and the dreaded broken threaded tap
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    Keith Wilford
    Finishing up a bare-metal, nut & bolt rotisserie restoration of my '71 Opel GT
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    Hoosier Opeler Site Supporter rrossjr's Avatar
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    Fastener hell.
    Attached Images Attached Images
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    Opeler Yellow73GT's Avatar
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    Steel bolts into steal anything, that shear off, are never a problem for me as long as I can get a tig torch close enough to it to start an arc. But steel bolts through aluminum The moron who thought that dissimilar metals, between fasteners and engine heads, was a good idea that fool should have been hung.
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    RunOpel dpre's Avatar
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    I totally agree with you Chuck. How in the world could anyone think its a good idea to use a steel bolt into aluminum.

    Has anyone had a problem with the timing cover steel bolt that fastens one side of the alternator bracket? When I bought my 1971 Opel GT, the PO must of had some issue, because I have discovered that bolt hole was inserted with a Helicoil. That has been a pain in the royal behind I have used sealant on the bolt threads and sooner or later I get a slow oil leak.

    Any suggestions of the fix, outside of replacing the timing cover???

    Keep on Opeling rubber side down and shiny side up
    Make a difference and help someone today
    Dan
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    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter RallyBob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dpre View Post
    I totally agree with you Chuck. How in the world could anyone think its a good idea to use a steel bolt into aluminum.

    Has anyone had a problem with the timing cover steel bolt that fastens one side of the alternator bracket? When I bought my 1971 Opel GT, the PO must of had some issue, because I have discovered that bolt hole was inserted with a Helicoil. That has been a pain in the royal behind <img src="https://www.opelgt.com/forums/images/smilies/pat.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Pat" class="inlineimg" /> I have used sealant on the bolt threads and sooner or later I get a slow oil leak.

    Any suggestions of the fix, outside of replacing the timing cover???
    That’s not supposed to be a thru-hole.

    The PO must’ve drilled it out. It’s not uncommon for that fastener to become loose, and it often buggers up the threads. So while a helicoil is fine to repair it, you don’t want to drill through the timing cover to do it.
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