Tip: Fuel Tank Gyro rejuvenation tool
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Thread: Fuel Tank Gyro rejuvenation tool

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    Member terrylewisac's Avatar
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    Fuel Tank Gyro rejuvenation tool

    Good Morning all, I think It's probably safe to say many of us have been faced with a rusted crapped out but salvageable ( in some cases) original fuel tank. And mine was no exception to this problem.
    As some of you know I am new to Opel's as well as this forum, purchasing my first Opel a few months ago. Finding and joining all of you has been a real blessing and has been a great place to educate myself ( Thank You All).
    The first thing among other things noticed was the rust in the see through fuel filter installed near the fuel tank. after just a few weeks of having my Opel I started smelling fuel every time I went into the garage but didn't see fuel any where.
    I spoke with a lot of local shops and searched for a fuel tank to replace mine and couldn't find anyone to repair my tank and no tanks were available except for in Germany which I was told they vacation the month of August. So what now? I found A company called Eastwood and there fuel tank cleaner,etcher & sealer kit. OK All I can do is try. So I pulled the tank out and found this tank had been opened and repaired to some extend in the past and also found my problems as to me smelling fuel. So I read the instructions and thought who in there right mind is going to stand here and hold this tank and roll it around etc. etc. to complete this process which is time consuming and some what of a back killer. So I built a stand on wheels that would allow me to move it where ever I need it and spin,roll or shake it in any direction I want. I must say it worked perfect and allowed me to set it in any orientation as well. So i got the job done and my friends were more impressed with this fuel tank gyro rejuvenation tool than the completed rejuvenated tank. They told me I should share this with the Opel community. So here we are.(pics below). Now that I'm finished what to do with gyro tool? disassemble and hope I can reuse the wood and materials for something else? Doubt it. Throw it away? Sell it? There has to be something I can use this for, but what?
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    Mike's Opel Shop Site Supporter opellane's Avatar
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    Holy Cow that some goofy looking system,, Good thinking.. it worked. Did you use the POR-15 System? that the one I always use maybe hold onto the GT Tank Gyro machine, Then this way you'll have it for your next GT !
    I think There are plenty Fuel Tanks Out there am sure... Maybe next time just give a Post Here that you want a GT Tank on the AD Board at the top left
    those ads come right to the Home Page first ( since we lost the Ad Board feature)

    I think it might of been Dieter that might of made one // or posted one..using an Electric powered Cement Mixer and Chain to Clean the inside of tank Thing was a monster... Good Cleaning Tool
    worked well too am sure!! Very, very, loud check it out
    https://www.opelgt.com/forums/fuel-t...k-clean-2.html

    Post #25
    and have a good laugh
    Last edited by opellane; 10-27-2019 at 12:04 PM.
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    MIKE
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    1972 Opel GT, 1969 Opel GT, 1973 MGB,

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    Member terrylewisac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opellane View Post
    Holy Cow that some goofy looking system,, Good thinking.. it worked. Did you use the POR-15 System? that the one I always use maybe hold onto the GT Tank Gyro machine, Then this way you'll have it for your next GT !
    I think There are plenty Fuel Tanks Out there am sure... Maybe next time just give a Post Here that you want a GT Tank on the AD Board at the top left
    those ads come right to the Home Page first ( since we lost the Ad Board feature)

    I think it might of been Dieter that might of made one // or posted one..using a gasoline powered Cement Mixer and Chain to Clean the inside of tank Thing was a monster... Good Cleaning Tool
    worked well too am sure!! Very, very, loud check it out
    https://www.opelgt.com/forums/fuel-t...k-clean-2.html

    Post #25
    and have a good laugh
    I'll be laughing all day! Thank you for that. Sure the neighbors weren't as impressed but very creative and effective as well. Yes I used the same stuff it is a fantastic product. Unfortunately I had not found you all yet when I was doing this. I just counted 61 nuts to put in the tank and started turning. I was going to use the extra electric rotisserie from one of my big smokers but thought the weight and it changing directions would be an issue so I opted to hand turn instead
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    Opel Rallier since 1977
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    What did you do to clean the tank inside after the de-rusting? Just curious....

    Nice jig! FWIW... I hung my tank from some bungies, using vice grips at each corner on the seams as support points, and just shook the crxx out of it for 5 minutes at a time a few times per day for a week or more. Used a mix of nuts, bolts, and gravel. The tank was reeeeelly bad for rust.

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    Member Michael A. Smith's Avatar
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    This subject also appear on the Triumph forum that I participate in. Besides the Eastwood treatment, that apparently works well so long as directions are followed to the letter, a couple of other suggestions have been offered. One is to fill the tank with white vinegar and allow it to sit for a couple of weeks. This requires quite a bit of vinegar and you use the strongest product available (keeping in mind that Triumphs, especially Spitfires, have a relatively small tank -- ten gallons). another method is as follows:

    * 1 gallon of Phosphoric Acid (you can get it at Home Depot, Lowe's or other hardware suppliers)
    * A bag of 1" stones (also available from Big Box Hardware - use the stones that are really jagged). Another method is to use a chain.

    Plug all the openings first, leaving the filler neck open.

    Pour the Phosphoric Acid in the tank, then pour about 5-10 lbs of the stones or the chain into the tank, and then cap the filler. Then proceed to shake the tank for about a half hour. It helps to have a means of shaking other than simply your arms and strong back -- members of the Triumph forum have, as has been mentioned on an earlier post here, figured how to mount the tank on a concrete mixer. Leave the Acid in the tank for a few hours after shaking it. Then pour all the junk out and rinse with clean water. The Phosphoric acid will leave a converted surface on the clean metal which will keep it from further rusting.

    I used an easier, although a bit more expensive method: I found a radiator repair shop and paid them to clean and line the tank (about $350 to have radiator and heater core pressure tested, and to have the tank cleaned and lined)

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    Member terrylewisac's Avatar
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    A gallon of distilled boiling water at a time drained, repeat,drained then compressed filtered air just in case any loose stuff was still hanging on,
    Then new filter in cleaned dry shop vac and hooked exhaust to the fill port of tank and let it rip for a couple hours. Did the etching and put my dehumidifier under it and let it run all night. The next Morning it was absolutely bone dry. Repaired my pin holes, let cure and used the sealer 72 hours later where another pin hole popped up in the top of the tank but the sealer fixed that. It said to wait 72 hours to fully cure But I gave it a week as I was waiting for the new parts from ogts to finish the fuel system rebuild. Ran all new fuel line ( in 5 1/6 copper), new vent, return vent lines, filters and Mechanical pump .
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    Thank you Mr Smith.
    I did try to get the radiator shop to do it for me but he wouldn't do it for insurance/liability reasons he couldn't afford the insurance to keep messing with the few tanks he would do.
    He did have a new core build for the radiator and thanks to Gill for the upper & lower tanks as mine were shot and to add insult to injury I caused the leak in the front center of the radiator trying to get the d##m battery out
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrylewisac View Post
    A gallon of distilled boiling water at a time drained, repeat,drained then compressed filtered air just in case any loose stuff was still hanging on,
    Then new filter in cleaned dry shop vac and hooked exhaust to the fill port of tank and let it rip for a couple hours. Did the etching and put my dehumidifier under it and let it run all night. The next Morning it was absolutely bone dry. Repaired my pin holes, let cure and used the sealer 72 hours later where another pin hole popped up in the top of the tank but the sealer fixed that. It said to wait 72 hours to fully cure But I gave it a week as I was waiting for the new parts from ogts to finish the fuel system rebuild. Ran all new fuel line ( in 5 1/6 copper), new vent, return vent lines, filters and Mechanical pump .
    OK thanks, sounds good. I wondered if you used an alcohol to help get the water out and get it really clean prior to the treatment. I have read of some such tank sealing jobs that have 'come apart' after a while so I suspect being squeaky clean is a key.

    For that reason, I just knocked the (very bad) rust out as best I could, washed it several times with gas, and then had a rad shop steam & hot wash it out, and let it go at that after a can with WD40 to prevent flash rusting (with the excess WD40 poured out). It had no leaks, but if it had, I would have brazed them up, like I did on a CJ-7 gas tank. If you don't have the tools, that is not an option.
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    1000 Post Club kwschumm's Avatar
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    I sent my tank to these guys and am extremely happy with the results. Don't recall what it cost though it seemed worth it.

    Moyer Fuel Tank Renu - antique gas tank repair restoration, classic car gas tanks GASTANK
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    I started sending my tanks with the parts I get stripped to American Metal Cleaning in Cincinnati and they come back completely cleaned. I got tired of steam cleaning, and derusting. Now when we get them back, I just use KBS Gold Standard tank sealer and done
    Check out our Opel restorations at
    www.newvintageauto.com

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    Thank you Kwschumm. hopefully I wont have to do this again anytime soon.
    SO the OPEL GODS have shined on my parade today I was able to make a 5 min adjustment to this thing and re purpose it to stage the rebuild of the front end. And I will go out on a limb here and say it may work for the rear once I'm done with the front.
    Check this out never would have thought the size would be so perfect. What a lucky day
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    I was lucky, a friend called and said hey do want a Opel gas tank? I said sure ...it was a new GT gas tank for free. He said he was going to throw it away he had no use for it. It was in a body shop he cleaned out that he bought.
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    Very Nice friend and you sir are a lucky dog
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    i did phosphoric acid and a handful of nuts and bolts. shook it until i couldnt shake anymore.

    then coated with redkote. still looks good 5 years later
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrylewisac View Post
    Thank you Kwschumm. hopefully I wont have to do this again anytime soon.
    SO the OPEL GODS have shined on my parade today I was able to make a 5 min adjustment to this thing and re purpose it to stage the rebuild of the front end. And I will go out on a limb here and say it may work for the rear once I'm done with the front.
    Check this out never would have thought the size would be so perfect. What a lucky day
    LOL... you have invented the Swiss Army knife for Opel GT's. Now if you can get it to fold into a handy dandy pocket size, then you'll sell millions! Well, at least 2... LOL
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    Quote Originally Posted by Manta Rallier View Post
    LOL... you have invented the Swiss Army knife for Opel GT's. Now if you can get it to fold into a handy dandy pocket size, then you'll sell millions! Well, at least 2... LOL
    unintentionally it does fold up, wasn't part of the design it just happen to work out that way but you'll need bigger pockets LOL
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    rust removal with molasses!

    In case you need to do some more rust removal in the future (you DO own an Opel GT!) you might try a molasses solution! A friend of mine pointed me in that direction but warned me it does smell after a while! It's usually about 10% molasses and 90% water so it goes a long way. Check it out here: https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+with+molasses

    Another way (smells better) is WASHING SODA (not baking soda!) and electrolysis: https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...s+rust+removal
    The link here also includes other chemicals but I have only used Washing Soda (you can actually find in the laundry department of most grocery stores).

    HTH -- Doug

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    Member terrylewisac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slracer View Post
    In case you need to do some more rust removal in the future (you DO own an Opel GT!) you might try a molasses solution! A friend of mine pointed me in that direction but warned me it does smell after a while! It's usually about 10% molasses and 90% water so it goes a long way. Check it out here: https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+with+molasses

    Another way (smells better) is WASHING SODA (not baking soda!) and electrolysis: https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...s+rust+removal
    The link here also includes other chemicals but I have only used Washing Soda (you can actually find in the laundry department of most grocery stores).

    HTH -- Doug
    HMMMMM pretty cool idea.

    Honey I'm gonna need a bigger bucket! One big enough to drop the front suspension in, I got one last bolt to get out
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrylewisac View Post
    HMMMMM pretty cool idea.

    Honey I'm gonna need a bigger bucket! One big enough to drop the front suspension in, I got one last bolt to get out
    Actually, one of the videos used an inflatable children's "swimming" pool about 4-5 feet in diameter! You do have to be careful of sharp edges!

    LOL -- Doug

    PS - 1/2 of a 55 gallon drum is more than big enough for most projects.
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    Member terrylewisac's Avatar
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    new question guys,
    So I replaced the entire fuel system fuel line return,vapor , everything from tank to carb and all at tank,
    It runs like crap jumping around rough idle on cold start and almost wants to shut off.
    Not bad once warm but seems a little low rpm
    There were no issues prior to rebuild of fuel system. However The way it was set up when I bought it was no return or vapor lines ect. at all.
    I noticed there seem to be some kinda restrictor/orifice in the old filter that was located at the carb maybe 5 -6 inches pre.
    I thought about (as a test) putting it back in post 3 port filter pre carb to see if this changes.
    Q 1 ) am I missing something here
    Q 2 ) is it possible the carb was tuned to that set up and now needs to be retuned?
    I dunno any suggestions?
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