Best Long Term Engine Storage Ideas?
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Thread: Best Long Term Engine Storage Ideas?

  1. #1
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Best Long Term Engine Storage Ideas?

    I'm planning on rebuilding my previous engine and I'm thinking that instead of selling it I might just sit on it long term.

    What would be the best way to store a freshly rebuilt engine for a couple of years or more?

    Should I put it together and gasket it all up, maybe spray the outside with a sealer, pour in some oil, some in the cylinders, wrap in a plastic bag, etc., etc.?

    Or should I leave it as separate block and head(and maybe remove cam/valve stuff), oil pan removed, and everything hosed down with preservative, then wrapped in plastic bags. By preservative I mean this stuff I can get from work, kinda like cosmoline, that's for sealing guns and machinery long term that leaves an oily wax-like coating that stops rust.


    Wide ranging subject, talk about anything you want.


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    Hoosier Opeler Site Supporter rrossjr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    maybe spray the outside with a sealer...
    Engine fogging spray
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    RunOpel dpre's Avatar
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    Great timing Gordo I'm in the process of rebuilding a 1.9 I just pulled from a 1970 Opel GT. Still undecided whether I should keep it at a 1.9 or go with a 2.0 (I know a lot of you would say go 2.4 getrig...problem is cost )
    My goal is to eventually replace with my original 1.9 in my 1971 Opel GT which has 122,000 original miles and still performing awesome.
    So this is great timing for me. I look forward to hearing a lot of different opinions. I'm sure this topic will generate as many or more comments as the shifting topic did

    I hope Bob, Keith and Charles will chime in as well as many others. If I remember reading past posts about this topic, most felt completing the rebuild with added oil and wrapping in plastic. I wondered after you have stored the engine in whatever process is appropriate, do you ever go back and re-oil or have to do anything to keep the engine preserved.

    Dan
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    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Here's another one I found when viewing Ron's link:

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBKG0A...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
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    Squirt oil in the cylinders and close all holes where debris or dust can enter in the engine, cover it, but not too hermetically so you still can turn the crank every now and then to keep the piston rings from seizing if the oil for some reason isn't doing its job.
    Last edited by Commodåren; 10-14-2019 at 04:39 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Commodåren View Post
    Squirt oil in the cylinders and close are holes where debris or dust can enter in the engine, cover it, but not too hermetically so you still can turn the crank every now and then to keep the piston rings from seizing if the oil for some reason isn't doing its job.
    Don't forget that humidity in air condenses into water and causes rust. It's best to store the engine in an area where temperature is kept above dew point. I've found that a master bedroom closet works well
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    2000 Post Club soybean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwschumm View Post
    Don't forget that humidity in air condenses into water and causes rust. It's best to store the engine in an area where temperature is kept above dew point. I've found that a master bedroom closet works well
    Or add a dehumidifier? to the above suggestions. Jarrell
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    1000 Post Club kwschumm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by soybean View Post
    Or add a dehumidifier? to the above suggestions. Jarrell
    Doesn't even need to be that fancy really. Make a wood box out of rigid foam insulation and put the engine in it with a small heater of some kind. A block warmer, or light bulb, or something that generates heat. Just be sure to keep the heater away from anything flammable inside the box. Or you could even install a block heater and leave it plugged in.
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    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwschumm View Post
    Make a wood box out of rigid foam insulation and put the engine in it with a small heater of some kind. A block warmer, or light bulb, or something that generates heat. Just be sure to keep the heater away from anything flammable inside the box. Or you could even install a block heater and leave it plugged in.
    Holy Cow! You guys in the Northwest really DO smoke better weed than we do!

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    1000 Post Club kwschumm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    Holy Cow! You guys in the Northwest really DO smoke better weed than we do!

    I'm just really tired of anything metal rusting in a dry shop. Can't wait for my new heated shop to be done!
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    Take old oil and for the cylinder rooms a weapon oil like Ballistol.
    All 6 to 8 week turn the engine that the piston rings get a other position.
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    Über Genius First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Here's what I did.

    I sprayed a diluted mixture of oil and 99% isopropyl inside the guts. I torqued the rods down as well as the mains using 90W as a lube. I put some dessicant packs in the pan and cylinders.
    Then I put everything together but didn't torque anything down.
    I relaxed all the springs on the rockers. Added another set of dessicant packs under the valve cover.
    It was already on an engine stand so I covered it with a plastic bag and zip tied the bag at the engine stand shaft.

    It's a good idea to leave a note for yourself inside, just to remind yourself where you left things.
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  15. #13
    Can Opeler Knorm65's Avatar
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    I just have mine on a stand in the corner. I turn the engine over by hand every month or so when I’m bored. It’s still nicely coated with old oil.
    "Mira," 1970 Opel GT Working ARA AC, European 2.0L and Midikit
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  16. #14
    RunOpel dpre's Avatar
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    Gordo up here in the northwest, if you stand in one place to long, you will collect moss and rust
    Not sure if our weed is any better, never tried it, but we do have our share of weeds
    Dan
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  17. #15
    Opel Key Master opelspyder's Avatar
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    If you leave it in pieces, then coat with grease for long storage, yes, you will have to clean it thoroughly but it wont rust. If its all together, and fresh, put oil in it and prime the oil system so it at least has oil throughout. They do make spark plugs that have desiccant in them that you could use, maybe put in an insulated crate. Just depends on how long you anticipate it to sit I guess
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  18. #16
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    There are preservative oils used in long term storage of aviation piston engines that you might want to look into. The cylinders seem to be the most likely part to rust... I can't recall opening any engine from long term storage or sitting in a j-yard, with rust on the cam lobes, unless it was left open to rain with the breather open or similar where it actually got water directly into the engine. And relaxing the load on the valves springs as suggested is a good idea.

    And FWIW.... the engine I am working on sat for 5 years or so in the car. Had a minor head gasket leak letting coolant into #2 and #3. #3 has an area of light rust on part of the cylinder wall of about 1.5-2 sq inches.... enough that you can feel it. Compression test was 130-135 psi before ever starting it. So not as bad as I mighta thought think.

    FWIW #2: I have broken a ring on an engine trying to turn it over that got lots of rust inside. It was on the ground under a sheet of plastic.
    Last edited by Manta Rallier; 10-16-2019 at 11:34 AM.
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