questions on opel pros/cons
OpelGT.com is the premier Opel GT Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Dislikes Dislikes:  0
Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: questions on opel pros/cons

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    8
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    questions on opel pros/cons

    Heyy, My names Jesse and im from eastern nebraska. I found an 1971 opel for sale that runs for 600 and that comes with a parts car. ive never owned an opel before and have talked to a few people about them and wondered if a few of the things ive herd are true or not... bear with me. carb first, i hear you want a weber oposed to a solex and this opel has a weber, good or bad? ive also herd the rear end and drive train are really week and if you dump the clutch its pretty easy to bust all that up even with a stock engine (runnin about how many horse power with what kinda gas milege?) true or not? i got two diffrent stories about high speed crusing, one, it cuises easy at 110 120 but will blow right of road if theres any cross wind, two, the whole body is like a wing and at high speeds it actually compresses the shocks an inch or two, witch ones true? id really appriciate any answers to theese questions along with advice for buying and weather or not its worth it to fully restore it (pocket books not that large) thank you!

  2. Remove Advertisements
    OpelGT.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Opel GTer Clayton918's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Haskell, Oklahoma
    Posts
    93
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    First off, Hi and Welcom!!!! Second Opel are the best cars in the world...GET ONE!! (or two). I can answer a few of your Q's.
    1) weber is good .
    2)fuel economy is good (theres a poll thread here on that subject so you can get a good idea of what youd be looking at.)
    As to whether you should buy this particular GT...you'll have a hard time getting advice on that from here without us knowing alot more about the condition of the car.
    So lots more info on condition and maybe a few pics.....and you are in the right spot for good advice....just not from me there are much more knowledgeable people here than I. I'll let them do the talkin.
    But I still say even if not this one......BUY A OPEL GT!!!!!!!!!!
    -Clayton

  4. #3
    OpelGT.com Übermoderator kwilford's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    5,449
    Real Name
    Keith Wilford
    Downloads
    5
    Uploads
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by yetialbrecht
    carb first, i hear you want a weber oposed to a solex and this opel has a weber, good or bad?
    Weber is good, Solex is bad. But a good Solex is better than a bad Weber. A Weber can be repaired, a Solex can used for a conversation piece at Opel gatherings...

    Quote Originally Posted by yetialbrecht
    ive also herd the rear end and drive train are really week and if you dump the clutch its pretty easy to bust all that up even with a stock engine (runnin about how many horse power with what kinda gas milege?) true or not?
    Older differentials (1968 to 1970) used a poorer design for the outboard axle bearing (roller bearing ran right on axle), which were weaker, and now impossible to replace (bearing is not available, anywhere, from anyone). Not to mention that the axle was ruined when the bearing wore out. And a clip in the pumpkin held the axle in place, which sometimes allowed the axle to pull out and overtake the car and smack it in the door (ask Rodney Killingsworth aka KillerTexasGT to show you his passenger door and the response from his wife when the rear wheel tried to enter her door!) Newer design uses a proper sealed bearing and pressed on outer retainers. Much better, but the differential itself is still a non-LSD, and the spider gears are inherently weak. They handle the stock 100 HP (pre-'71 with the solid lifters and higher compression pistons) OK, but don't like much more that that. Any differential can break if subjected to a sudden clutch drop, especially if the tires get traction.

    Quote Originally Posted by yetialbrecht
    i got two diffrent stories about high speed crusing, one, it cuises easy at 110 120 but will blow right of road if theres any cross wind, two, the whole body is like a wing and at high speeds it actually compresses the shocks an inch or two, witch ones true?
    Opel GT's cruise at 70 mph at 3500 rpm. So 120 mph is 6000 rpm, which is pretty much red-line, and absolute top speed even for a very nicely turned out stock engine in a GT. While these Opel CIH engines are "over-square" (much bigger bore than stroke) and like to rev, to ask ANY engine short of a Honda S-2000 or RX-8 rotary to cruise all day at 6000 rpm is a bit much.

    And while the body was pretty darn aerodynamic for its day (remember, they were designed 40 years ago!), they still have some lift at speed. But they have a very small frontal area, and a VERY small side area, so they are quite resistant to cross winds. I had mine up to 125 mph for a quite long run once (I had a front air dam and a few engine mods) and it was quite fun. But the steering was light, and things came up very quickly. Especially with the thought of hitting a moose in a 2000 lb car that is as low as the GT is, running through your head...

    HTH and good luck
    Keith Wilford
    Finishing up a bare-metal, nut & bolt rotisserie restoration of my '71 Opel GT

  5. Remove Advertisements
    OpelGT.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #4
    Non Civilian opelwasp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Between Chico and Sac, CA
    Posts
    2,084
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    welcome to the site. your questons in order.
    1: WEBER Gooood, Solex Baaaad(as in boat anchor)

    2:Stock engine with stock stuff is just fine. You start adding nitro, turbo bigger engine swaps you start having problems.

    3:I have gotten up to 34 mpg in a GT before average is in the mid to high twenties.

    4oing 110 to 120 on a windy day ain't smart anyways. But a simple airdam will fix that, about $25 from OGTS. At that speed the car will feel a little "floaty".

    5:Compressing the shocks at high speeds? I wish. That would actually be a good thing, that would create a lower pressure zone under the car and sucking it down even harder. Better high speed control, but alas that is a couple thousand dollar option on high end luxury cars, not an opel.

    If the rust isn't bad on that car it sounds like a great deal, snatch it up.
    Arguing online is the same as racing in the Special Olympics;
    no matter who wins, you're both still retarded.

    1971 GT (Opelwasp)
    1974 Manta A (Polizei)
    2001 Dodge Dakota SLT 4x4 Quad Cab
    2006 Suzuki SV650S
    2009 Chevy Impala LT
    2015 Dodge Charger SE

  7. #5
    Raging Opel-holic GT_Pheel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    San Diego.....now Peru, In
    Posts
    65
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Buying an Opel GT....

    As the above post mentioned...this is an area where you may see varying answers, but I'll give you a bit of what I came up with before buying mine.

    I had not seen or known much if anything when first thinking of getting an Opel GT. I researched everything I could find through the internet and various other sources. The results of that research point to a vast number of people that have many a story to tell about the near mythical things that they and or their buddies did back in the day.........it also gave some very clear cut information and sources for information one of which you have already found. I believe that it was easier to find things in the forums when I first started checking this place out. There are so many posts that you might need to know a little about what you are looking for before you can look, but there are some vary knowledgable people here that will go to great lengths to help a fellow Opeler, Opel nut or what ever other term you can use to say Opel Enthusiast. My only caution is to read and put a bit of effort here on your own before directly questioning specific members. If you are willing to check things out on your own a bit, the person you would question sees at least there is an effort to learn rather than just asking to ask.

    Many people here already have a lifetime of working on and maintaining an Opel, so you are at the best knowledge base on the internet.

    Opel GT Source is one of the most reputable places for parts...other sources are TGSI, Opels Unlimited, Goin' Manta, as well as others.....The main thing to reassure you is that you can get parts to drive an Opel GT daily.

    Specifics about buying a GT:

    1.) Look at the area just behind the front wheel arch where the little tube looking thing attaches to the under body....this is your front jacking point area. There should not be any rusted through areas here. Also look at the rear mounts and general condition of the underside.

    note: If the floor pans are rusted, they can be replaced; experience levels will determine ability or comfort attacking certain jobs. People here can give direction or "tricks" to get things done.

    2.) Bring a 19mm socket and ratchet to turn the engine over clockwise. This is easier from the driver's side. If it won't turn over than it most likely is "froze up". This is something fixable but requires a lot of work and could be a bit of a steep learning curve to someone new to Opels.

    3.) While you have the hood up look at the battery area just in front of the radiator to see how bad the rust is......yes, is. This is a bad area for most all GTs you find, but there are many parts and options for repairing it, so don't worry about it too much...or if it's pretty roachy, don't sweat it so much.

    4.) Your still in the same area so you should probably get an idea about whether the car is alive...pull the stick on the driver's side of the block just forward of the starter and see if she's got blood or not. If the oil is spotted it could have oil or just condensation in the oil, if it is milky whitish-brown there may have been some damage done to the block or to the head or head gasket if you are lucky.

    5.) If you can bring a battery and compression checker, pop it off and get some numbers to see if it needs rebuilt and or rings. It can also determine a need for valve tuning, but in general it will give you an idea of what is going on and would give many of the people here a very clear picture of what you are getting or getting into.

    6.) Do a walk around of the car to just look over the body for old repairs or bad paint spots. Pay attention to the areas near the lower edge of the body, between the light buckets and hood, the area near the edge of the hood where the body slopes up to the wind shield, around the wheel areas is also a good area to check for cancer or rusted through areas.

    note: Many times I have found myself fascinated by a car and overlook one or more of these areas. It can be easy to miss a serious amount of your time being spent fixing something overlooked while admiring a curve.

    If you see anything that looks strange or out of where it should be, the car could have been modified. I ran into a few things that were "fixed" by some one else. Sometimes this can cause reason for caution, but generally things can be brought back to stock very easily if so desired.

    You will find no other car like a GT. They are quite unique in design and can be made to compete with much more expensive and exotic sports cars if that is something you are looking for. The car will get A LOT of attention wherever you go. You will get looks. People rarely see these cars and become fascinated by one that shows itself. It will cause you to get the occasional story from a stranger that either owned or whose buddy had owned a GT. They are fun. A person of light mechanical aptitude can maintain a GT.

    Above all else, remember that there are people here to help you to save another Opel, but more so to save you from a bad Opel if that is the case.

    With a spare car for parts I would probably buy both cars for the price you had mentioned. It appears to be a pretty decent price. It has a weber, so you have one of the major mods out of the way already. Between the two cars, I would think one engine should be pretty easy to make live again. If you need any parts, having a spare car can give you something to trade or sell if there is anything you need.

    The drive train of the GT is strong enough to handle what most people would consider a heavily tuned engine. It has areas that can be made stronger or to perform better. Sway bars and lowering the car will give you a completely different feel. There has never been a time that I have felt the car get light due to speed or felt anything out of the realm of ordinary with cross wind. I lowered the front of my GT very early into things. Replacing the bushings with pollies will make a big difference as well. The 5-speed conversion will give greater gas economy and let you get the car closer to 150-160mph at redline. If you want to go with a blend of economy and sport or go insane with the car, there are ways to do it.

    With a little luck, you could have two GT's for a hell of a price.
    Last edited by GT_Pheel; 09-27-2005 at 01:34 AM.
    the only loose nut's the one behind the wheel.....

  8. #6

    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    18
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    Thanks for the helpful information, GT PHEEL....I'm hoping to get a GT soon and will keep your info close by...

  9. #7
    Raging Opel-holic GT_Pheel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    San Diego.....now Peru, In
    Posts
    65
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    There could be more

    I will have to post a bit more detailed area by area description of the problem spots to check out specific to the GT. If you need any help, try posting something here or in my message box. I'll get to things as I can....it looks like I'll be taking over the garage at Opels Unlimited and helping with parts orders a little. I will be a bit busier durring the week so weekends might be best.
    the only loose nut's the one behind the wheel.....

  10. #8

    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    8
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    Well thanks every one for all the helpfull info, ive checked out the body and the only problem is a crack/dent in the rear drivers side quarter and there is a lot of rust around the battery mount area but its not all the way through and should be pretty easy to clean up, the rest is in very good shape but ill be sure to recheck the areas metioned. I actually have three engines and the one in the opel is a good as well as the one in the parts car, the other i think was blown but still fixable. when i tried pushing it a little it wouldnt move. im not sure if maybee the axle is locked up or the brakes are (any one elnse have problems with this?). Im hoping it will brake loose when i get the engine started, i havnt tried yet due to the absense of keys. thanks again for your support.

  11. #9

    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    72
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Welcome

    I am also a new Opeler, and well, when i bought my car about 4 months ago now....my car wouldn't budge either. My cxar was sitting for 3 years before i got it. The brake pads were basically 'welded' to the front rotors, rears were fine. hth.

  12. #10
    Old Opeler GTJIM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    5,566
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Admiring Curves .....

    Quote Originally Posted by GT_Pheel
    note: Many times I have found myself fascinated ......... and overlook one or more of these areas. It can be easy to miss a serious amount of your time being spent fixing something overlooked while admiring a curve.
    Ain't that Life!
    All good info and advice - remember: "If you have any money left - you have not finished modifying your Opel GT!"
    Be warned Opelitis is a very serious disease - buy the GTs and ENJOY!
    GTJim
    Opel Owner since last Century!

    Copyright © 2000-2009
    J D Henry
    All Rights Reserved

  13. #11

    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    37
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    I think the worst thing about owning a opel is that most folks no nothing about them. I want one but it seems you need someone with opelitis close by...who doesn't have a jealous girl friend...or boyfriend Parts are hard to find.....what the hell I am still searching....well kinda...not sure I can afford one.

  14. #12
    Member gtjames's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Bonney Lake, WA
    Posts
    126
    Downloads
    4
    Uploads
    0

    Coolim not sure if maybee the axle is locked up or the brakes are (any one elnse have pro

    Welcome to this great opel site. On a couple occasions, I've experienced the left rear (driver side rear) break shoes binding on the drum after sitting for long periods of time. In my case, I had to remove and clean/lube the adjuster to get the shoes to retract. It sounds like a good deal- good luck!

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

    Similar Threads

    1. Opel Paint Codes
      By Gary in forum Opel Tech Articles
      Replies: 30
      Last Post: 10-29-2016, 01:41 PM
    2. Replies: 10
      Last Post: 04-25-2005, 03:40 PM
    3. Google Search
      By Gary in forum News
      Replies: 21
      Last Post: 10-29-2004, 03:22 PM
    4. Buying a 72 Opel GT, Have Some Questions??
      By VertZ24 in forum General Discussions
      Replies: 3
      Last Post: 06-11-2004, 09:21 PM
    5. Replies: 9
      Last Post: 10-20-2003, 12:00 AM

    Bookmarks

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •