View Poll Results: What should Gordo do?
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Put the DCOE 9 back on and try tuning it before giving up.
Keep the DCOE152, give up, take it to a tuner.
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Correct Jeff Hurray hurray.
Originally Posted by GoldGT
I will only drive and not screw all the time. My new 2.2 engine is from 1986 the auto trans too,that is a real bigg difference
Never read so much over Weber Side drafts before.But most I must not read. Special the posts over jets on a 2.0 engines.
Here is a homemade 2.5 with a lot of mods,nobody build before. There is a comparison worthless.The difference is to huge.
Here Gordon wrote it exacly
" And then consider that my set up is for low speed daily driving a stroker engine in a city with a single side draft and an automatic on a car with a limited gear range and an intake manifold with one runner 3 times longer than the other one and a split profile cam that lifts very quickly, but closes slowly/normally. Go ahead, tell me what the timing and fuel mix should be on a set up like that."
Nobody can tell you " There can be only one"
This one can tell you. Steinmetz created this special runners for a 2.0 engine with Solex Sidedraft as racer.
Last edited by norbertone.gt371; 07-10-2019 at 10:30 PM.
Schöne Grüße an alle Flachkadetten!
Just Some Dude in Jersey
Charlie drove up here on Friday and he whipped out his guns and gauges. We experimented with the timing at various points from 0-35 degrees, we eventually settled on around 18 degrees and about 2.5-3 turns out with the mix. Then we went for a long drive of about 45 minutes all through my neighborhood, downtown traffic, my torture test roads, etc. We were at full operating temperature the whole time and none of the shut offs or stumbling occurred. I floored it and spun tires and did everything I could think of to detect a glitch like pinging, etc. The car ran really great, just like it used to.
Except at stop signs and red lights. Basically, it had trouble when in Drive and stopped. It would drop out of normal running and go into "side draft limp mode". So we went back to the house and tried various experiments and fiddled with the timing to knock out that problem. The car ran fantastic running in Neutral in the driveway and passed every rev test with clean powerful running, but put it in Drive with my foot on the brake and maybe idle forwards and backwards and the limp mode would kick in. We made it worse, we made it better, but we couldn't kick out that last glitch. We had good results with ridiculous high idle at 2000, but you can't have your automatic car getting enough throttle for 2000 rpm and then put it in Drive and have the torque converter squash it down to 800. That ain't right. No matter what idle you set your auto trannied car to, the tranny will squash it to 8-900rpm when idling in Drive. If the carb goes into limp mode, that rpm will drop to 3-500rpm. A side draft is designed to run at 1000-1200rpm at idle. We couldn't get it to behave but we got it really close at points. Actually, having an automatic and putting it in Drive with my foot on the brake was a great way to simulate load at low rpm. It's kind of like having your car on a dyno with simulated load. If I had a stick I would have to do endless drives lugging around at 800rpm in 1st gear.
We got the car close enough to normal driving behavior where I should be able to get it to the Dyno dude's shop for fine tuning. We both kind of agreed that getting the timing EXACTLY right, within a degree or less, is the answer. But, man, is it hard to find that one perfect degree or fraction thereof! I might try fiddling around myself with it a bit, but I'm inclined to not touch it and just let the tuner dude zero in on the best setting for me. I'll ask him if he can change a jet or something to make the car easier to tune myself.
It definitely seems that my whole problem was a simple vacuum leak.
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