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Thread: Overheating solutions

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    Evan's Coolant

    Here is a link to an old and brief thread I started on Evan's Coolant years ago. I like the idea but don't like the idea of what happens if you're on the road somewhere and need coolant.

    Harold

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    FWIW: I found out a while back that Evan's is just a grade of propolyne glycol IIRC, and per se is not particularly special. As such, you can add some coolant and water and drive home. You just have to flush it all out again, and start over. Read this: https://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm

    Overall, it does not cool as well as a water/anti-freeze mix; you can find that info on their site. The advantage is the lack of water to form rust, cause electrolysis between AL and iron etc. And it will not boil since there is no water in the system (of properly flushed and dried), and so it will not have hot spots forming in the head as easily, even while having lower system pressure.
    Last edited by Manta Rallier; 4 Weeks Ago at 12:13 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by opelgt722002 View Post
    However, Gil is adamant that the gasket be left alone.
    And I can see that as it does alter the flow pattern. The question is which is OK and which is best.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by hrcollinsjr View Post
    P.S. Noticed the other day that Chrysler has been using Dex Cool since, 2013?
    Yes... it seems like every mfr is heading that way (OAT coolants) for the long coolant life.
    Last edited by hrcollinsjr; 4 Weeks Ago at 12:56 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by opelgt722002 View Post
    However, Gil is adamant that the gasket be left alone.
    True, no offense to Gil, but I believe Bob has built more engines. Plus, I don't overheat as much anymore. I'm not crediting this one thing to helping, but a combination of 7 bladed fan, correct antifreeze, sprint powder- coated, and pusher fan, gas cooler, have helped me immensely with overheating and carb boil over. Just my thoughts on this. Jarrell
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Cub View Post
    Some good suggestions as cooling down the GT is usually a challenge due to the compact engine bay. Iíd be interested in learning more about this clutch fan. This is the second or third time Iíve read about it but no details on the installation or who makes a good one for our application. Iíve recently purchased an electric fan, my ultimate goal is to abandon the stock fan as mentioned above, itís needless noise and a slight HP robber in the mid to upper RPM range. Also stop & go for extended periods is and will always be a problem with the stock cooling fan in my experience. Iím also doing other things more specific to the manifold such as getting rid of the stock chimney set up for one. In the warm climate Iím in itís a not a good set up much better for colder climates, and Iím sure Iíll miss some of its benefits. I like your suggestion to insulate the fuel line in the engine compartment, another on my to do list.
    Pardon my ignorance, but iíve worked on my cars alone for decades, so thereís a lot of Opel shoptalk lingo Iím not familiar with... When you say ďchimney set upĒ Iím not sure if youíre referring to the intake or exhaust system, because the intake is on top like a chimney, but technically a chimney is an exhaust system. So if youíre referring to that cast-iron stock exhaust manifold I thoroughly agree with you in that it should be replaced with high-performance headers for a dramatic difference in performance, & even cooling, & you could have any muffler shop expand your pipes to 2 inches all the way back, or call Gil for a complete header & 2Ē custom exhaust system going all the way back to the exhaust tip of the custom remanufactured resonator... Please be advised, iím not pro molding a single source for everything, but every source that Iíve used for the best quality products, & in 30 years Iíve been to just about every one of them in Southern California... Ive always open a new ones & new ideas... No one place is the (one stop for everything) despite any claims to the contrary... Even if I miss speak...
    So meanwhile, back at the ranch,,, whatís a chimney? :}

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    Quote Originally Posted by Manta Rallier View Post
    FWIW: I found out a while back that Evan's is just a grade of propolyne glycol IIRC, and per se is not particularly special. As such, you can add some coolant and water and drive home. You just have to flush it all out again, and start over. Read this: https://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm

    Overall, it does not cool as well as a water/anti-freeze mix; you can find that info on their site. The advantage is the lack of water to form rust, cause electrolysis between AL and iron etc. And it will not boil since there is no water in the system (of properly flushed and dried), and so it will not have hot spots forming in the head as easily, even while having lower system pressure.
    Quote:The advantage is the lack of water to form rust, cause electrolysis between AL and iron etc. End Quote.
    Many years ago, I used a sacrificial Anode in the radiator on my Manta. Don't know if it really worked or was just snake oil, but... Jarrell
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr DJ-GT View Post
    Pardon my ignorance, but iíve worked on my cars alone for decades, so thereís a lot of Opel shoptalk lingo Iím not familiar with... When you say ďchimney set upĒ Iím not sure if youíre referring to the intake or exhaust system, because the intake is on top like a chimney, but technically a chimney is an exhaust system. So if youíre referring to that cast-iron stock exhaust manifold I thoroughly agree with you in that it should be replaced with high-performance headers for a dramatic difference in performance, & even cooling, & you could have any muffler shop expand your pipes to 2 inches all the way back, or call Gil for a complete header & 2Ē custom exhaust system going all the way back to the exhaust tip of the custom remanufactured resonator... Please be advised, iím not pro molding a single source for everything, but every source that Iíve used for the best quality products, & in 30 years Iíve been to just about every one of them in Southern California... Ive always open a new ones & new ideas... No one place is the (one stop for everything) despite any claims to the contrary... Even if I miss speak...
    So meanwhile, back at the ranch,,, whatís a chimney? :}
    Gils new header may be the correct one, but a 75 Sprint with the webs cut out will generate less heat than headers. The older headers do not seat right on the intake gasket and were constantly leaking. (I have 2 of these). Plus the Sprint is a plug and play set up. Put it on, bolt it right up to the original exhaust system. No running around trying to get stuff welded. Again, just my opinion. Jarrell
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    Quote Originally Posted by Manta Rallier View Post
    Yes... it seems like every mfr is heading that way (OAT coolants) for the long coolant life.
    Chrysler used G-05 from 2002-2012 and then made the switch to Dex-Cool, for whatever reason.

    Harold

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    Overheating solutions

    The suggestions in this thread are pretty good. I like the remote oil cooler for adding some extra water cooling capacity especially!

    I would like to discourage anyone from using 100% antifreeze though. Thatís a very bad thing to do.
    1. Before mixing with water antifreeze actually freezes almost the same as water at 0į +/- 5į

    2. Pure antifreeze has about half of the heat transfer ability of pure water. Pure anti freeze will cool 35-50% less than a mixture of around 50/50 water antifreeze mix at 165įF. This is because water has better cooling properties and when mixed with antifreeze it increases the density of the fluid (kind of like putting salt in ice water to make things get cold faster.)

    3. The additives in coolant are designed to work when at least 30% water is added. Without water the density is wrong and the additives may settle out and youíll clog things up (it would take many coolant changes though) and lose your anticorrosion capability of coolant.


    If you live in a place that doesnít freeze pure water is the best common fluid for cooling a car. Your temps will greatly drop when using pure water with corrosion additives added in.
    This is what most race cars use. You canít let it near freezing temps and you have to regularly change it though.
    Last edited by Knorm65; 4 Weeks Ago at 01:13 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by soybean View Post
    True, no offense to Gil, but I believe Bob has built more engines. Plus, I don't overheat as much anymore. I'm not crediting this one thing to helping, but a combination of 7 bladed fan, correct antifreeze, sprint powder- coated, and pusher fan, gas cooler, have helped me immensely with overheating and carb boil over. Just my thoughts on this. Jarrell
    Well Soybean, like I said, thereís no single place thatís a one stop source for everything. Thereís always someone with a better mousetrap so itís best to always keep an open mind & continue to grow... I saw your very interesting pictures & youíve already done some of the things Iíve mentioned, but (with a twist) of a couple more Iíve never even thought of... So thank you for that...

    Who in the world thought of putting a radiator cap release valve on a GT thermostat housing??? Thatís kinda brilliant... I also like your combo oil & cooling system cooler set up, also brilliant... I didnít know they came in duplex :}

    I find itís better to ask stupid questions than make costly mistakes... With that said, Iíve been wanting to post some of my pictures here, but canít figure out how, so, how do I post pictures here? :{

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr DJ-GT View Post
    Pardon my ignorance, but iíve worked on my cars alone for decades, so thereís a lot of Opel shoptalk lingo Iím not familiar with... When you say ďchimney set upĒ Iím not sure if youíre referring to the intake or exhaust system, because the intake is on top like a chimney, but technically a chimney is an exhaust system. So if youíre referring to that cast-iron stock exhaust manifold I thoroughly agree with you in that it should be replaced with high-performance headers for a dramatic difference in performance, & even cooling, & you could have any muffler shop expand your pipes to 2 inches all the way back, or call Gil for a complete header & 2Ē custom exhaust system going all the way back to the exhaust tip of the custom remanufactured resonator... Please be advised, iím not pro molding a single source for everything, but every source that Iíve used for the best quality products, & in 30 years Iíve been to just about every one of them in Southern California... Ive always open a new ones & new ideas... No one place is the (one stop for everything) despite any claims to the contrary... Even if I miss speak...
    So meanwhile, back at the ranch,,, whatís a chimney? :}
    I think he means the exhaust heat passage that heats the underside of the intake. As Soybean wrote, swap the original exhaust manifold to a Sprint or 20E/22E FI exhaust manifold without the exhaust heating. As a bonus you will gain 2-3hp due to the better flow. The difference between a Sprint and a 20E/22E FI manifold is the front pipe flange size, the Sprint has the same size flange as the GT while the FI manifold has a larger flange.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr DJ-GT View Post
    Well Soybean, like I said, thereís no single place thatís a one stop source for everything. Thereís always someone with a better mousetrap so itís best to always keep an open mind & continue to grow... I saw your very interesting pictures & youíve already done some of the things Iíve mentioned, but (with a twist) of a couple more Iíve never even thought of... So thank you for that...

    Who in the world thought of putting a radiator cap release valve on a GT thermostat housing??? Thatís kinda brilliant... I also like your combo oil & cooling system cooler set up, also brilliant... I didnít know they came in duplex :}

    I find itís better to ask stupid questions than make costly mistakes... With that said, Iíve been wanting to post some of my pictures here, but canít figure out how, so, how do I post pictures here? :{
    Posting pictures, you have to resize them. Windows 10 works well for that. The oil/gas setup was originally an oil cooler from Summit Racing. I just adapted it to cool gas. There is an old thread about an oil cooler, type oil cooler into the search box on the home page. Here is just a sample of what you'll find. https://www.opelgt.com/forums/6b-coo...il-cooler.html
    I believe one came off a Volvo? I have one upstairs in my Shed, saw it this AM when I was searching for some other parts. There are numerous threads on that subject. Hth, Jarrell
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knorm65 View Post
    The suggestions in this thread are pretty good. I like the remote oil cooler for adding some extra water cooling capacity especially!

    I would like to discourage anyone from using 100% antifreeze though. Thatís a very bad thing to do.
    1. Before mixing with water antifreeze actually freezes almost the same as water at 0į +/- 5į

    2. Pure antifreeze has about half of the heat transfer ability of pure water. Pure anti freeze will cool 35-50% less than a mixture of around 50/50 water antifreeze mix at 165įF. This is because water has better cooling properties and when mixed with antifreeze it increases the density of the fluid (kind of like putting salt in ice water to make things get cold faster.)

    3. The additives in coolant are designed to work when at least 30% water is added. Without water the density is wrong and the additives may settle out and youíll clog things up (it would take many coolant changes though) and lose your anticorrosion capability of coolant.


    If you live in a place that doesnít freeze pure water is the best common fluid for cooling a car. Your temps will greatly drop when using pure water with corrosion additives added in.
    This is what most race cars use. You canít let it near freezing temps and you have to regularly change it though.
    Nicely put, altho I can run my system on straight antifreeze I donít, because my interior heater never seems to give me enough heat unless thereís actual water in the system, so, although I donít actually measure how much, but Iíd estimate it to be about 3/4 antifreeze most of the time... If the reservoirs are low for any reason when Iím out & about, I just add some distilled water because my antifreeze & all but 1qt of 20/50 oil is kept at home... My late model work vehicle & every new vehicle I drive says to (add coolant only), so I guess theyíre designed to run a straight antifreeze coolant... By the way, I live in Southern California Hollywood/North Hollywood area & it never snows here, but sure gets cold as heck sometime :{
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    Quote Originally Posted by CommodŚren View Post
    I think he means the exhaust heat passage that heats the underside of the intake. As Soybean wrote, swap the original exhaust manifold to a Sprint or 20E/22E FI exhaust manifold without the exhaust heating. As a bonus you will gain 2-3hp due to the better flow. The difference between a Sprint and a 20E/22E FI manifold is the front pipe flange size, the Sprint has the same size flange as the GT while the FI manifold has a larger flange.
    That’s very interesting, & probably half the cost of the high-performance headers I’ve already installed...
    Tho there’s no way I’ll change my hi preformance header setup for anything because of the added power, lack of heat, expanded exhaust size, better mileage, cooling etc. I’d never go back to any type of cast-iron exhaust manifold. Even my intake manifold was hand-picked from about a dozen because of its notably larger interior ports & Even honed out that figure 8 configuration into a much more efficient rounded edge oval shape, for a substantially smother intake flow... But I like your suggestion, & will pass it off to friends without hi preformance headers...
    Last edited by Mr DJ-GT; 4 Weeks Ago at 02:34 PM. Reason: Typos

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    Quote Originally Posted by soybean View Post
    Posting pictures, you have to resize them. Windows 10 works well for that. The oil/gas setup was originally an oil cooler from Summit Racing. I just adapted it to cool gas. There is an old thread about an oil cooler, type oil cooler into the search box on the home page. Here is just a sample of what you'll find. https://www.opelgt.com/forums/6b-coo...il-cooler.html
    I believe one came off a Volvo? I have one upstairs in my Shed, saw it this AM when I was searching for some other parts. There are numerous threads on that subject. Hth, Jarrell
    Be advised: My personal oil formulation of 1 quart mobile-1 15/50wt full synthetic, with the bulk being organic 20/50wt , topped off with 1quart of Valvoline organic straight 50wt. Is what I found works best for my GT in this Southern California climate for faster warm-ups, superior performance, & great thermal protection..,

    Cooler climates might want More 15/50, or even thinner oils for faster warmups, & hotter climates might have better luck with a liíl more straight 50wt racing oils for that superior thermal protection, because theyíre always warmed up anyway :}

    So please, donít use what worx for my GT as absolute gospel for yours, because like people, every Opel is different in their (technical) personalities, & the climates they live in...
    <>Dj<>

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    Quote Originally Posted by soybean View Post
    Gils new header may be the correct one, but a 75 Sprint with the webs cut out will generate less heat than headers. The older headers do not seat right on the intake gasket and were constantly leaking. (I have 2 of these). Plus the Sprint is a plug and play set up. Put it on, bolt it right up to the original exhaust system. No running around trying to get stuff welded. Again, just my opinion. Jarrell
    I believe I received the first "shorty" header when Gil got them in. I had offered to take it to Carlisle IF I got it before the show. The quality was nice. With that being said, I received it after returning from the show plus someone made an unauthorized change to the design leaving Gil with an unusable product. The intent is to be "Plug & Play". The "Sprint" manifold is probably quieter but they are getting harder to find and then there are concerns with seized headpipe flange bolts. The shorty header is a nice looking alternative plus it may actually add a little performance with separate pipes for cylinders 2 & 3 vs. a stock exhaust manifold.

    Once again, I'm on the list for the shorty header.

    Harold

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    Opeler Mr DJ-GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by soybean View Post
    Posting pictures, you have to resize them. Windows 10 works well for that. The oil/gas setup was originally an oil cooler from Summit Racing. I just adapted it to cool gas. There is an old thread about an oil cooler, type oil cooler into the search box on the home page. Here is just a sample of what you'll find. https://www.opelgt.com/forums/6b-coo...il-cooler.html
    I believe one came off a Volvo? I have one upstairs in my Shed, saw it this AM when I was searching for some other parts. There are numerous threads on that subject. Hth, Jarrell
    Thank you, but Iím doing this all from my cell phone thatís nowhere close to windows 10... I donít need another gas cooler with what Iíve already done to (Baby), & the Southern California climate is pretty even keel, so half the time I donít know what season it is... But thanks for sharing the resources here, because maybe I can find a (carburetor air horn) for my modified Weber DGAS to increase its air intake flow... I see pictures & videos on YouTube but no one ever days where one can be found, & I understand they specifically make one just for Webers...

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    Overheating solutions

    Quote Originally Posted by hrcollinsjr View Post
    I believe I received the first "shorty" header when Gil got them in. I had offered to take it to Carlisle IF I got it before the show. The quality was nice. With that being said, I received it after returning from the show plus someone made an unauthorized change to the design leaving Gil with an unusable product. The intent is to be "Plug & Play". The "Sprint" manifold is probably quieter but they are getting harder to find and then there are concerns with seized headpipe flange bolts. The shorty header is a nice looking alternative plus it may actually add a little performance with separate pipes for cylinders 2 & 3 vs. a stock exhaust manifold.

    Once again, I'm on the list for the shorty header.

    Harold
    Theoretically the new shorty header would be better than full OGTS header for most people as itís a 4-2-1 design rather than 4-1 like the big header.
    4-2-1 helps power a bit lower rpm than the larger 4-1 header.
    The larger OGTS header probably adds minimal power until about 5500rpm. But Iím just speculating.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr DJ-GT View Post
    Nicely put, altho I can run my system on straight antifreeze I don’t, because my interior heater never seems to give me enough heat unless there’s actual water in the system, so, although I don’t actually measure how much, but I’d estimate it to be about 3/4 antifreeze most of the time... If the reservoirs are low for any reason when I’m out & about, I just add some distilled water because my antifreeze & all but 1qt of 20/50 oil is kept at home... My late model work vehicle & every new vehicle I drive says to (add coolant only), so I guess they’re designed to run a straight antifreeze coolant... By the way, I live in Southern California Hollywood/North Hollywood area & it never snows here, but sure gets cold as heck sometime :{
    100% coolant/antifreeze will likely cause overheating issues! Most manufacturers would probably like for you to buy a 50/50 mix. Distilled water is recommended when adding water to prevent scale build up. There are lots of minerals in the water where I live.

    What does pure antifreeze do to a car?

    Harold

    P.S. 100% antifreeze freezes at 12į above zero, IIRC!

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