Joined
·
3,937 Posts
Yes it doesn’t curve quite as much when removed like the standard 1.9L one. I’d guess a 1/2” to 3/4”drop if you put a 1.9L on a 1.1L leaf.
1.1 to 1.9 engine swap
41 - 60 of 64 Posts
I appreciate all of your comments and suggestions. And I respect all of your opinions but considering my timeline and a lack of help I'm going to fast-track this car and try to build up the 1.1 for now anyway. The car has 53,000 original miles, and 99% rust free body. Plus I have no garage and would be working in gravel driveway. So basically I just need to get the carburetors to function. Already have two carburetor 1.1 rebuild kits and I found the breather tube that goes to the valve pan on eBay. And I have brand new brake calipers from opgts.not rebuilds and new brake hardware. One rear drum is chipped and needs to be replaced.. plus I have new carpet new windshield Chrome and decent used windshield rubber. Plan to use 73 windows side rears. Got to have some air flow in an opel gt!. Seats aren't the greatest but I will worry about those later.will post progress..Thanks Everybody! Have a great day!
Does this car need non detergent oil? And will this car run on unleaded fuel? Without damaging it?
Joined
·
3,937 Posts
You can run modern synthetic in it if you want. 10W40 is plenty thick for a tired 1.1L don’t go to 20w50 that’s too thick. The owners manual gives a range of oil viscosities for your climate.
I run unleaded in all of my opels without lead additive. You will get conflicting opinions on this, but I do not consider it necessary to add lead.
On your first start up prime the oil pump if you can. You can prime it by removing the distributor (not an easy job on a 1.1L). With it removed you’ll see a little raised key in the hole. You can take the square end of a ratchet extension and wedge the key into it. Then you can use a drill to turn it clockwise if I recall correctly.
Take off the valve cover and wait till you see oil running down the rockers. Once you see that it’s ready to go.
Do you have any pictures of the car? It sounds like a pretty nice car.
In Ohio now will post in a week or so....car was in storage more than it was drivin...
Joined
·
973 Posts
You could get a second 1,1 engine to build up in the mean time and swap in later to minimize down time.
The only problem might be where can he find another 1.1L.
Joined
·
478 Posts
My 1.1L GT performs about the same as low compression 1.9L. It does handle better too, so I would vote for keeping it original. I have some carbs if you need them send a PM
Joined
·
1,190 Posts
I guess one of the the reasons I’m so infatuated with the 1.1 is how much room is left in the engine bay. A BIG plus for a carbureted engine. The 1.9 in the GT is a hotbox especially in the summer due to the heat buildup, there’s no escape for the heat due to the restrictions, it also works it’s way inside the car. The heat causes real issues in stop & go traffic, a problem that apparently isn’t an issue with the CIH sedans or wagons because there’s plenty of room in the engine bay. Something else to consider.
Joined
·
738 Posts
I have owned and enjoyed a '69 1.1 GT since 1991...I seriously considered converting it to a 1.9 + and bought a wrecked '72 (?) to get all the parts.
After some good advice here from people I knew only thru this site I decided to restore my drive-able, rust-free 1.1. If I remember correctly
it was Rally Bob who said he wouldn't want a 1.1 ( No Surprise ! ) but that it was rare enough to preserve.. If you are reading this, Thank You Rally Bob
Later I bought two '73 GTs , one was a daily driver for a year or two. I never had enough time, money, and space at the same time to do a proper build.
But I did closely compare the '69 and '72 / '73 GTs. The body shells are basically identical. There are a bracket or 2 welded to the firewall for the 1.1 throttle
linkage which would be easy to remove... The sheet-metal at the opening quarter glass is slightly different also, but that has no effect on engine used...
Anyone thinking of going from a 1.1 to anything bigger or more powerful should take EVERYTHING mechanical off the body shell and save it for someone else.
Remove Complete Front Suspension, Springs, Brakes (everything is smaller) Radiator, Engine and Everything that attaches to it all the way to the rear wheels..
This obviously includes the motor mounts and cross-members, transmission, driveshaft, rear differential, ( which is relatively tiny, along with tiny rear brakes )
And some wires would need a fix because the alternator , sensors, etc are in a different location... But......You could use the same wheels !
Last week Todd at Opels Unlimited told me he had six used 1.1 engines. ( there were 2 (?) compression ratios available ) He is selling blocks and heads separately.
Someone in SoCal built a 1.1 Kadett for Lemons racing, starting with bigger valves.. Those are good little engines, I have a spare head and may explore the 'big valve' option.
After some good advice here from people I knew only thru this site I decided to restore my drive-able, rust-free 1.1. If I remember correctly
it was Rally Bob who said he wouldn't want a 1.1 ( No Surprise ! ) but that it was rare enough to preserve.. If you are reading this, Thank You Rally Bob
Later I bought two '73 GTs , one was a daily driver for a year or two. I never had enough time, money, and space at the same time to do a proper build.
But I did closely compare the '69 and '72 / '73 GTs. The body shells are basically identical. There are a bracket or 2 welded to the firewall for the 1.1 throttle
linkage which would be easy to remove... The sheet-metal at the opening quarter glass is slightly different also, but that has no effect on engine used...
Anyone thinking of going from a 1.1 to anything bigger or more powerful should take EVERYTHING mechanical off the body shell and save it for someone else.
Remove Complete Front Suspension, Springs, Brakes (everything is smaller) Radiator, Engine and Everything that attaches to it all the way to the rear wheels..
This obviously includes the motor mounts and cross-members, transmission, driveshaft, rear differential, ( which is relatively tiny, along with tiny rear brakes )
And some wires would need a fix because the alternator , sensors, etc are in a different location... But......You could use the same wheels !
Last week Todd at Opels Unlimited told me he had six used 1.1 engines. ( there were 2 (?) compression ratios available ) He is selling blocks and heads separately.
Someone in SoCal built a 1.1 Kadett for Lemons racing, starting with bigger valves.. Those are good little engines, I have a spare head and may explore the 'big valve' option.
Attachments
My carbs were rebuilt.about 10 years ago.... I have rebuild kits but don't know squat about carbs.... Probably not difficult, but I don't have any confidence.iam getting old and scuzzy @ 66 years old..... 😆
I have owned and enjoyed a '69 1.1 GT since 1991...I seriously considered converting it to a 1.9 + and bought a wrecked '72 (?) to get all the parts.
After some good advice here from people I knew only thru this site I decided to restore my drive-able, rust-free 1.1. If I remember correctly
it was Rally Bob who said he wouldn't want a 1.1 ( No Surprise ! ) but that it was rare enough to preserve.. If you are reading this, Thank You Rally Bob
Later I bought two '73 GTs , one was a daily driver for a year or two. I never had enough time, money, and space at the same time to do a proper build.
But I did closely compare the '69 and '72 / '73 GTs. The body shells are basically identical. There are a bracket or 2 welded to the firewall for the 1.1 throttle
linkage which would be easy to remove... The sheet-metal at the opening quarter glass is slightly different also, but that has no effect on engine used...
Anyone thinking of going from a 1.1 to anything bigger or more powerful should take EVERYTHING mechanical off the body shell and save it for someone else.
Remove Complete Front Suspension, Springs, Brakes (everything is smaller) Radiator, Engine and Everything that attaches to it all the way to the rear wheels..
This obviously includes the motor mounts and cross-members, transmission, driveshaft, rear differential, ( which is relatively tiny, along with tiny rear brakes )
And some wires would need a fix because the alternator , sensors, etc are in a different location... But......You could use the same wheels !
Last week Todd at Opels Unlimited told me he had six used 1.1 engines. ( there were 2 (?) compression ratios available ) He is selling blocks and heads separately.
Someone in SoCal built a 1.1 Kadett for Lemons racing, starting with bigger valves.. Those are good little engines, I have a spare head and may explore the 'big valve' option.
I had coronavirus about 6 months ago, and it really knocked the wind out of my sails.. but I'm still trying to live like a rockstar like I'm 18...
If you go on YouTube and look ip info on rebuilding carbs that will probably help.
I'm on YouTube a lot, I will look into that! Thanks!...crawl.
The trick is synchronizing the two carbs. If you don't have the metering tool to synch them it will never run right. I speak from past experience as I owned three 1.1 Kadets back in the 70s. The carbs are simple enough, just get them CLEAN inside. Good luck!
Where would I get one of these metering devices I've seen them in JC Whitney catalogs years ago.. are they synchronized individually? I know the two throttle plates are frozen up and or the rod that goes between them is locked up .. gas pedal will not move it is locked tight.!
Amazon.com: Deluxe Carburetor Airflow Meter : Automotive
Buy Deluxe Carburetor Airflow Meter: Air Flow Meters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
There are adapters that can be bought for various carbs too but I think the 1.1 carbs have round orifices.
I am in Akron Ohio at' the present time visiting my son. I am staying with relatives my ex family... So I am only a few miles from summit racing I'm going to swing by there tomorrow and see if they have the metering gauge.. I'm sure they do for a price ... That is something I will probably store in the car for use whenever I'm on the road.... thankfully for all the information from everyone....this car is going to make or break me.... I've been at Opal fanatic since 1974. Just a lot to do...
41 - 60 of 64 Posts
Join the discussion
