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I used a cast iron version with a double pulley off of a Manta which was outfitted with A/C. You only need one groove, but it is more durable than the stamped steel version, but they may be hard to find now days.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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That's a great idea! Any Opel that had A/C and still had it's original pulley would have one of those azz-kickin' cast pulley's.

Regular oem crankshaft pulleys are stamped tin junk. The slightest pressure with a screwdriver if you try to pry it out of the engine will warp them. It's wise to remove the pulley before removing/installing an engine in a GT because the pulley sits over the front suspension crossmember and you usually have to push the engine rearward when dropping a GT engine to clear that crossmember. If you leave the pulley on, it often hooks on that lip sticking up at the rear of the crossmember and warps the pulley.

Here's a 2.2/2.4 crankshaft pulley:





 

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Vendor
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Hi PJ! I should be able to try to start my new engine today! Yay!

I am PM'ing you because I just have to have toothed belt pulleys. All of this talk about them recently is driving me crazy and now I MUST have them.

Since you are more experienced with these and know what kind to order, can you find me a set, or should I just order the ones in the thread that you gave a link to in a thread today?

Then, can you do the extra machining of them for me, that you told me needs to be done, to make them work on our GT's? There is no hurry. I will install them later this Summer.

Thanks!
Gordon
I was hoping to start the engine today but got bogged down with several things. There are days when nothing works...Walked from the garage yesterday frustrated. Will see how will the day go today.

Anyway, to answer your question, the pulley set from German ebay works fine. Spare cog belts are easy to find in the States. Note, the rotating speed is reduced by smaller crank pulley. I found it beneficial for cooling (slower flow of coolant through the radiator) but the standard 35A alternator would not always charge when the engine is idling and you have lights, wipers, etc on. This is much better if you have upgraded your alternator to the modern one.
 

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Just for posterity and the archives.

Stock 1.9 crank pulley (sheet metal), non AC equipped. It weighs 540 grams (1.19 lbs).
 

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Stock 2.2 crank pulley, cast iron. 1778 grams (3.92 lbs).
 

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Stock 2.4 cast iron pulley with crank trigger and elastomeric harmonic dampener. For road use its recommended to retain this piece for smooth operation and longevity. Long stroke engines tend to have more harmonic issues than short stroke engines.

For racing I don't bother however. Just accurate balancing.

This behemoth weighs 6.7 lbs (3039 grams).
 

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Some aftermarket stuff from years past.

Billet steel 4" pulley. 721 grams (1.59 lbs).

Billet aluminum 3.5" pulley. 196 grams (.43 lbs). This is what I used to run on all my high rpm racing engines.
 

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Check that a larger crank pulley won't interfere with the fan pulley before it is installed.
This has been a problem with some 2.0 engines.
 

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Sorry to add a question to an old thread, but it seemed related. Can anyone ID this pulley from my 2.0l 1970, weighing 4lb, 5.5 oz, with 49 84 along with a circle cFw brand? Appears to be cast.
Appears to be a harmonic dampener as well.
 

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Opeler
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Sorry to add a question to an old thread, but it seemed related. Can anyone ID this pulley from my 2.0l 1970, weighing 4lb, 5.5 oz, with 49 84 along with a circle cFw brand? Appears to be cast.
Is it a single or double sheave pulley? Can't tell from the picture. If it is a double, it may be the cast iron pulley that was provided in the add-on air conditioning kits for Opels. GM and ARA sold these kits.
 

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Über Genius
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Other angles would help also

I'd guess that the 84 pertains to a year of the engine it was on but that's as far as I'd go.
 

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Über Genius
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To keep this thread complete, there's also this aftermarket crankshaft pulley out there now.





 
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