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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I've spent hours reading the various threads and cannot believe the education I've been given. Everything from engines and fuel systems to suspension and funny smells / noises!!

This post is however about my 1.9L motor, which I will be pulling in a week or so and am preparing to order parts. I hope you guys don't mind revisiting this issue, as I know there are plenty of threads on it, I'm just looking for some yeahs and nays before ordering parts. Here is what I am looking at, bear in mind this will be my first time and I'm sensitive :D :

1) Bore the cylinders to 95mm

2) Bore and install the 43mm intake valves, keeping the stock 33mm exhaust valves(or should I go with true 2.0 36mm valves)

3) Install a Torquer camshaft (new lifters or springs?)

4) Install a 38 DGAS and port the intake to match, using the stock snorkel. ( I read one of Bob's articles on increasing the inner radius's for a 5-8 HP gain, sounds good!)

5) Install a sprint exhaust (I didn't see these in the OGTS catalog, does anyong have a lead on them, from what I've read they are very hard to come by, maybe Germany?)

6) Install a 5 speed (from what I've read ordering the modified tranny is the way to go, anybody have a weight on these?)

7) New oil pump kit

8) Complete 2.0 CIH rebuild kit

9) 8.5" flywheel and clutch

Is there anything you would add or subtract from this (crank scrapper)? I am going to print some of the threads that deal with the machining, to give to the shop. Are there any pitfalls I should watch for in this process, specifically the machining and cam? My clutch is in good shape, though I have a feeling it won't be after the upgrades, hence the larger flywheel and clutch, any thoughts??

Again, without the help of this site I would still be wondering how in the world to stop this thing :D
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well if nothing else this list should highlight all the different threads and posts I've read on modifications to the 1.9L, helping a newby like me to search in the future.
 

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dont waste your money in the "Torquer" cam. get the "Combo" cam. you will be much happier. youll want the hotter cam with that carb anyways. why dont you also consider a Bosch fuel injection? it is onlu about 400 bucks and a 38 dgas is well over 300. FI is very nice.
 

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The 5-spd weighs about 80 lbs, I have had several shipped in here, to Atlanta, to be shipped out to various other states for less than you might think. Most recent was one from Belgium for $268 (that's just s/h not the cost of the trans itself) Another from Germany for $220 (again just the cost of s/h) to be re-shipped out to CA via UPS for $42.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I've searched the forum for "Bosch Fuel Injection" and found a couple of things worth noting, but nothing yet on the installation or retailer. Is this something I missed in the OGTS catalog? In regards to the 5 speed, that is lighter than I imagined, though I do recall reading a post by someone appreciating the fact they could move it with one arm. I assumed it was someone either really strong or really anxious to install it, not that it was literally so light. :rolleyes: Shipping from California to Alaska shouldn't be too bad then. :D
 

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Valve sizes

The stock 1.9 valve sizes are:
Intake = 40 mm
Exhaust = 34 mm

2.0 valve sizes are:
Intake = 42 mm
Exhaust = 36 mm

The first step improvement is to use the intake valves from a 2.0, which is 42 mm, and keep the stock 1.9 Exhaust valves (34 mm)

I hope this clears up the confusion.
 

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Bosch FI

The Bosch FI set up is in the OGTS catalog Item #16009, Bosch LE fuel injection. There's no price listed, so you'd need to call. The LE is the uprated 2.0L FI system and it has several advantages over the 1.9L Bosch L Jetronic FI. I'd at least consider it if the price is the same or close. Once installed and sorted out, a fuel injection system is hassle free.

Good luck.
 

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Seeing as I am marginally employed these days, I have a few minutes to see if I can help. Let me preface all of my advice with the fact that I am far from the most seasoned Opeler, so you use my comments as a guidline, search any keywords and variations, not only on this site, but google too to get some more general information. And feel free to continue to post your questions in this thread as you think of them.

AKGT said:
1) Bore the cylinders to 95mm
Think of it less as boring the cylinders to 95mm, and more like finding a set of oversized pistons, and then having the cylinders bored to match. First, find a set of pistons, either legit 2.0 pistons from OGTS, chevy 305 or 265's, or custom. The Chevy pistons gives you a plethora of choices and pricepoints, but pin heights can cause clearance issues, so research your pistons carefully... or pay a couple more bucks and get them proper from OGTS, just mention that you are fitting these to a 1.9 block, Dennis and Gil are a great resource of information and mentioning things like that when you order, this will allow them to save some aggravation if there are any issues. Once you have your pistons, gaskets and bearings, take everything to your machine shop and let them match the pistons to the bore... it's amazing how much of a difference 0.001" makes. Another thing, don't take the reputation of a "good" machine shop for granted, and don't give them too long of a leash. Many of the best machine shops have botched an Opel motor (my father included) simply because the motor is just weird enough. Make sure that they know when to align-hone and when to align-bore (search for more info on when to do either). Another note on pistons, stay with flat-tops, check the valve to piston clearances to make sure that there won't be any interference.

AKGT said:
2) Bore and install the 43mm intake valves, keeping the stock 33mm exhaust valves(or should I go with true 2.0 36mm valves)
Someone else is going to have to sound off on this. Going to a 36mm exhaust valve will help, but I can't estimate the return on investment.

AKGT said:
3) Install a Torquer camshaft (new lifters or springs?)
The torquer cam is just that... all torque. I have a dyno simulator on my computer and the dyno curve for the torquer cam looks more like that of a diesel than anything that I would want in my performance motor. The curve of the Combo cam is pretty impressive, it offers a nice bump in power, good transitions and isn't real peaky. A rough estimate shows that usable power will be from 3,000 rpm to 6,000 rpm. New lifters are a requirement for any new cam and vice versa. Once the cam and lifters have been broken in, they should be married for life, and never re-marry if ever widowed. Maybe that's a little extreme, but beware that mix and matching will lead to premature wear. Springs on the other hand... with stock springs on the Combo cam you are right at the edge of spring bind... Get a second opinion on this. And since we are on the topic of the valvetrain, take a look at the roller rockers that samdog is selling. I have a set for my motor and they are wonderful. The price of admission may seem steep at first, but consider that they really will last forever, they lighten the valvetrain, and significantly reduce friction (heat, wear, power losses), and eliminate the clatter noise from the engine.

AKGT said:
4) Install a 38 DGAS and port the intake to match, using the stock snorkel. ( I read one of Bob's articles on increasing the inner radius's for a 5-8 HP gain, sounds good!)
The 38 is a good call. I assume that you are referring to Bob's article on how to port the stock intake manifold with the different options for different motors. There are quite a few pictures of users that have done this. Look around to see what it should look like when you are done.

AKGT said:
5) Install a sprint exhaust (I didn't see these in the OGTS catalog, does anyong have a lead on them, from what I've read they are very hard to come by, maybe Germany?)
The sprint exhaust is a much better design over the 1.9 with heat riser. Sometimes users here offer them up for sale, so keep an eye on the ad board. Ebay is probably the best source for a sprint manifold... but bring your patience, when you do find one, it very well might be stolen by a sniper at the last second. I think that most are being sold for around $150. Also, be leary of "hi-temp" paint that a seller may have applied, most paints are useless on an exhaust manifold. While OGTS won't ever list a sprint exhaust manifold, If you have them on the phone, it won't hurt to ask.

AKGT said:
6) Install a 5 speed (from what I've read ordering the modified tranny is the way to go, anybody have a weight on these?)
Ordering the modified tranny from OGTS saves you a lot of steps and parts chasing. The piece of mind that what you are buying will fit, is priceless.

AKGT said:
7) New oil pump kit
You can almost never hurt anything by installing new parts. Since oil is pretty important, the oil pump kit is a wise investment. Better yet, since you are going to have the timing chain cover off any, why not replace the timing chain, sliders, and tensioner.

AKGT said:
8) Complete 2.0 CIH rebuild kit
This is one that you are going to have to talk to OGTS about. I think that you are better off telling them what you are trying to do (1.9 to 2.0 build-up) and let them tell you what you are going to need. Some of the 2.0 gaskets might not fit a 1.9 block.

AKGT said:
9) 8.5" flywheel and clutch
Search more for infromation about the conversion to a Chevy S-10 2wd truck clutch. I think the only modifications required to do this is a little grinding on the bellhousing of the trans.


Wow, did I really type all that... cripes, and I wonder why I haven't gotten anywhere with all my projects.
 

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Some of the 2.0 gaskets might not fit a 1.9 block (quote from madhatter)

when you call the GT source for a gasket set ask gil to replace the stock headgasket with a 2.0 headgasket. this only makes the gasket set 2.00 more expensive, or atleast that was the difference in price between the two headgaskets when i did my 2.0. gil had no problem doing this for me, and its cheaper than buying a gasket set and then buying the 2.0 gasket seperate. if you decide to stay with a stock size bore, a complete gasket set can be bought from northernauto for 82 bucks, its a high quality felpro set with silicone beads around the waterjackets and oil journals for the headgasket, and it even has the correct oil pump cover gasket (some gasket kits have a pump cover gasket thats too thick, which lowers oil pressure).

a sprint exhaust manifold is pretty hard to find, but it is a bolt up mod unlike a header would be. a header and sprint have similar charactaristics, the point of both is to keep the heat off the bottom on the intake, which they both do very well. sprint is rare, but is a bolt up, header is easily found but you'll spend a little more time on the exhaust to make it work.

madhatter is also correct about not getting any machine work done to your motor until you have your pistons, rings, bearings, ect in hand to give to them with your motor. opels have very tight tolerances compared to alot of other engines. i think i heard somebody say you can buy 2.0 pistons, rings, and wristpins for 360 for a set of 4, thats pretty cheap. i used 265 chevy flat tops from federal mougal in my 2.0, they cost 48 each, and the rings were 38 bucks for a set of 8 from sealed power, and the small end of the rods need to be bored out to fit the chevy wristpin, and the tops of the 265's have to be shaved .020 for deck clearance. i made that mistake with my 2.0, and had to pull it back apart to get the pistons shaved. all in all, it costs about the same for the 265's and the genuine opel 2.0 pistons. personally i'd go with opel parts if i had to do it again just to save the headache, and know your dealing with a opel orientated place instead of a parts warehouse thats never heard of opel. i'm assuming you've read "economical CIH rebuild" as thats a thread of turning a 1.9 into a 2.0 using 265's.

best of luck with the project, everytbody here is more than willing to help out.
 

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wow alot of ideas and a bit boggleing. I'll try to keep it simple.

Yes find a sprint of some variety. 1.9s are getting rare but you can still get 2.0 and 2.4s.

Find a good 32/36 the tuning aspect of a 38 is a bit vague at best.

OGTS can sell you the pistons and parts the cheapest to convert to a 2.0.

Cam and lifters you can have redone at half the price and stay on budget.

Just my thoughts on how to get there and not break the bank doing it. I could go into vast details but only you can make the decision of what you want to do and on what budget.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks guys,

First off, I don't know how much a typical donation to this site is, but I am thinking something like, a First born son, an arm and/or a leg! Maybe some of you out there can suggest a more noble approach, at this point I am inclined to give back!

Secondly, I looked in the site tips threads hoping to find out how to include quote(s) in my reply's. I attempted it once with the QUOTE option but ended up goofing it up and having to edit the post. Maybe I'm suffering from Paralysis by Analysis :eek:

Well, I'm currently, SSSHHHH, looking at the 2.0 block on ebay. I'm sure this will start jacking shortly, but I'm gonna keep an eye on it before ordering parts.

Dennis @ OGTS sent me a great email explaining what I need, with prices, for the conversion; Those guys are great. And I think it wise to support them, they seem, to an eye in training, to keep their prices modest. Here in Alaska we get taken hard, by the mere advantage local shops have, and I can appreciate a business not taking advantage of peoples vulnerablity.

Sounds like the Combo Cam is the way to go.

NOBODY mentioned having the cam and lifters redone. This is something I had not seen mentioned in detail in any of the CAM Threads I read. But you guys know how it is easy to overlook good information (you may see me quite a bit in the box of people on site, I know I see you guys). I will continue to read the appropriate threads already in the forum in hopes of gaining insight into this and the FI vs Carb option.

My plan is to print out the machining topics appropriate for the work to be done and supply the shop with them. Specifically what I find about the align hone and bore differences, this is great advise. I also read about some other intake vavle work, aside from just enlarging the seats, I will have to get back to that.

I am inclined to spend a little more money on the eaisier options, like the pre-modified 5-speed, etc. I did get ahold of a shop up here, one I've used for my wifes import, and he said he hasn't seen or worked on a GT in ALONG time, but has an FSM and other books on it.

NOBODY- send me a PM with your address and I'll get some of that Halibut headed your way!!
 

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Another Option

You may try contacting a member here that goes by, "jstock" as he was going to start an auction for a 2.2l, and another auction on a Getrag.

engine

Getrag

Sprint

Who knows, you may get lucky...
 

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BQS4 said:
Scott;
All of jstock's items have been sold
Figures. Somebody got a great deal. I would have bitten, had I not previously committed to my current project.

Anyway, it was a thought...
 
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