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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Well I did manage to pick up an Opel this last weekend. I drove 9 hours to pick it up and 9 more back the next day. All in all, it was a good trip. I did not have much time to look it over there, just hit the critical locations. Once I got it back in town, I had to drop it off at a friend's house and it was getting dark.

This is the car before I brought it home. At first glance the frame rails looked good, no rust out in the jack locations, typical rust out in battery box area, but the floors were in good condition. I was surprised that it had AC, although the under dash unit is in sad shape.
 

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I was able to look the car over this weekend. There is no rust out on the lower body panels at all. The frame rail on the drivers side has some slight rust but seems solid. The jack points are great all around. Had a bit of rust out on the floor around a seat mount on the drivers side. Battery box area is rusted out more than hoped. The damage in the front has bent the forward frame rail slightly in front of the sub frame attachment. Looks like the passenger side was saved from damage. Cannot figure out how they reattached the bumper though. Hopefully I will be able to straighten these pieces easily. That is later though. Just trying to get it up and running for now. I pulled the spark plugs out and it looks like it was running good before it was parked. Forgot the keys today so I will try tomorrow to see if the fuel pump is working or not. I also need to see if the electrical circuits are still working ok. It has not ran for 9 years so cross the fingers... George.
 

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Let's see some pics of what you've got! Looks like the fuel injection is unmolested :). Does the car run at all? Sounds like most of the critical areas are at least decent so that's good. Enjoy your new Opel!
 

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Forgot the keys today. Will try to get it to start tomorrow. The spark plugs looked like it was running good before they parked it. Having problems posting more than one picture at a time. George.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Curious how the rear windows are suppose to attach. There is just the metal tabs that come out form the sill. Cannot figure out how they attach to the glass. Is there a part missing? Thanks, George.
 

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Opeler
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Windows

Congrats on getting it home. Looks like a fun project
Those windows don't attach at the front George. They just pivot and the window stays in place because of the latching mechanism. I insulate them with a small black rubber pad if they are loose. Driving the car with the rear windows open tends to cause them to be glung out of the car on hard cornering, which is a bit of a drag. Ask me how I know.
One of the little idiosyncracies of this model.
 

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Curious how the rear windows are suppose to attach. There is just the metal tabs that come out form the sill. Cannot figure out how they attach to the glass. Is there a part missing? Thanks, George.
The metal tabs are glued to the windows, they can be glued back but that won't hold very long, there are 2 different kits sold to fix this problem that have a U shape and are also glued but because of the U shape there is a bigger glue area, one kit has the size of the original tabs, and the other has the U shape over the complete lenght between the tabs, for the best glue result, use a 2 component filling glue.
 

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The metal tabs are glued to the windows, they can be glued back but that won't hold very long, there are 2 different kits sold to fix this problem that have a U shape and are also glued but because of the U shape there is a bigger glue area, one kit has the size of the original tabs, and the other has the U shape over the complete lenght between the tabs, for the best glue result, use a 2 component filling glue.
Where can i get said kits?
 

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Where can i get said kits?
Ron and George;
One of the kits is at REPROTEC Startseite
It consists of 4 rubber hinges and 4 metal tabs, enough to do both windows, and they sell the 2 part epoxy to go with it. All together, it's about 26euros, or about $33 US, but, that doesn't include shipping.
The other system, or repair is here:
http://www.ysn.de/start.htm
If you go down the page a little you'll find it. I have this repair on two of my Sportwagons for about 2 years now and they're still working perfectly. This repair came out first, it's about 56 euros, or about $71 US, but, they do not have a 2-part epoxy. I went one step more on the ones I got, in that since I have a lot of "black out" on my Wagon, I had one set powder coated black and they really blend in with the dark tint I have on the windows.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thanks for the links BQS4. Do these guys ship to the U.S. or do I need to contact them first. Looks like the full glass ones are only available to stock on hand now.

I think they must have made a hard left hand turn because the passenger side glass is missing:eek:. It has been replaced by plexiglas so if someone has a good piece of glass they want to get rid of let me know. I may be interested.... :yup:

Going to see if it will start today so cross the fingers. George.:veryhappy
 

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I was surprised that it had AC, although the under dash unit is in sad shape.
Does it still blow cold? If not, there are all the parts needed to modernize
to R134A available. If you look in the ac section, I posted the story of
picking the modern components and installing a totally new ac system in my Manta. You have several options for the in/under dash evaporator including what I did, to use a trunk evaporator and leave the dash uncluttered.
 

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I think they must have made a hard left hand turn because the passenger side glass is missing:eek:. It has been replaced by plexiglas so if someone has a good piece of glass they want to get rid of let me know. I may be interested.... :yup:

Going to see if it will start today so cross the fingers. Geroge.:veryhappy
If the tip out windows are the same as the ones on the wagons, I have several George. Can anyone confirm this?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If the tip out windows are the same as the ones on the wagons, I have several George. Can anyone confirm this?

I looked at pictures of the two cars. Looks like they are quite a bit different. I thank you for the offer though.:veryhappy George.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I went over to see if I could get the car to start today and see if the electronics on the car worked. The fuse box is missing a fuse clip on number 5 and the rest were pretty corroded . Looks like most everything worked though, except for the lights in back. The heater motor is froze so was unable to see if it worked or not.

I took the spark plugs out and squirted some oil in the cylinders and gave it a crank to get the oil pumping through the system. Checked the voltage at the pump and had 12 volts. Did not hear the pump run though. Checked the the voltage at one of the injector plugs to see if I was getting power there. I was getting fluctuating voltage while cranking which from what I read should indicate it as being good. Max voltage shown though was .20. Figured that is just because it was shutting off and on too fast to show a true current.

Put the plugs back in and gave a shot of starting fluid to the intake and gave a crank. I got a start and run after a short crank and then shut back down. Gave another shot of starting fluid and another brief start and run. Looks like no fuel to the injectors so went back to the pump. Pump was warm but not running so I went ahead and took it off to see if I could get it to free up. I can hear it hum but it will not run. I now have the pump filled with fresh gas to see if I can get it to free up. Just have to hope I do not have to do the same to the injectors once I get the pump running.

I called a Friend of mine up today and he said he has some Ascona parts and I can just have them. He has no need for them. He said he had two front fenders and a hood for sure so things are looking up.

George.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Got the pump running tonight. After soaking it for a few hours I applied power to it and it still just hummed. Took the four bolts that held the inlet cap on and I could see the centrifugal pump. It was varnished up pretty good. Took the barrels out of their slots and cleaned with some carb cleaner. I then manually turned the shaft a couple of times and applied power. It started and ran. I put the barrels back in and the cap back on and then made up a dish of 50/50 of gas and ATF. I then put the pickup tube in the mix and made a hose to return the mix back to the same bowl. I applied power to the pump and let it run for awhile. Now I just need to put it back in the car and hope the injectors are going to work ok. I also want to put a filter in before the pump and one before it splits into the injector manifolds.
 

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Fuel

George
fyi I don't want to make a lot of extra projects for you, so feel free to ignore what I'm going to share. But maybe, it might save you a bit of time. I had done a full tuneup procedures on the 75 I bought while back. I tuned it, fixed vacuum leaks, replaced bad coil & condensor, repaired bad wiring, set valve lash, etc and yet it still had fuel delivery problems.
In addition to the fuel filter back there at the tank, there is a fine fine mesh filter on the end of the intake inside the gas tank. Cars that are sitting for a while will often crud up there and the screen will load up with rust, and you will only get fuel out of the tank intermittently. Mine was so clogged, the screen had collapsed in on itself. I have another 75 where it hasn't been a problem yet.
There are pictures here on the site for what that mechanism all looks like. Many of us have had to pull that intake out, drop the tank and clean it up, refurbish it. Maybe it isn't an issue for you just now. I couldn't figure out why I couldn't consistently get good fuel pressure (and it was the helpful guys here who steered me in this direction)
Best,
Gary
 

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Discussion Starter #19
George
fyi I don't want to make a lot of extra projects for you, so feel free to ignore what I'm going to share. But maybe, it might save you a bit of time. I had done a full tuneup procedures on the 75 I bought while back. I tuned it, fixed vacuum leaks, replaced bad coil & condensor, repaired bad wiring, set valve lash, etc and yet it still had fuel delivery problems.
In addition to the fuel filter back there at the tank, there is a fine fine mesh filter on the end of the intake inside the gas tank. Cars that are sitting for a while will often crud up there and the screen will load up with rust, and you will only get fuel out of the tank intermittently. Mine was so clogged, the screen had collapsed in on itself. I have another 75 where it hasn't been a problem yet.
There are pictures here on the site for what that mechanism all looks like. Many of us have had to pull that intake out, drop the tank and clean it up, refurbish it. Maybe it isn't an issue for you just now. I couldn't figure out why I couldn't consistently get good fuel pressure (and it was the helpful guys here who steered me in this direction)
Best,
Gary
I was thinking of that too. I have had other old cars that have sat where that was a issue. I will look into it. Thanks, George.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well, headed over and put the fuel pump back into the car. I also bought 2 filters. I bought 1 clear filter to put before the pump and bought a high pressure filter to put in line just before the split to the injectors. Also bought a pressure gauge to put in line. Turned on the power and had gas escaping through multiple holes and around clamps through out the system. Well I guess at least I know the pump is working. George.
 
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