[opelblitz]

2.0 Venolia pistons w/ less that 1200 miles to be pulled

Hi everybody.
Here's the story. Not long after my motor was built for me using the best parts I could find. Bob's 2.0 forged pistons, cam and yes that great fiberglass front spring. But from the day I got the car back it burned oil. The rebuilder said I needed to give the rings more time to seat. .......... The rest is history

On my way to a show I heard timing chain slap. Pulled the timing cover off and found that the timing chain guide had cracked and the chain was no longer in contact with the rail. Pulled the head to put the new gasket on and I found the source of my oil consumption number 4 cyl had been scored. My question is this when I take it to the shop to see what can be done, what are my options? I would like to reuse the pistons if that is possible. I believe the pistons are the forged Venolia, when I pull the pan I will see if there are any markings to identify them.

This is new ground for me, so I thank all in advance for your comments.

Ken

 

[Jim Branham]

I would think that would depend on how bad the cylinder walls have been scored. If it needs to be bored then you would need oversized pistons to fit the new size bore. Good Luck.

 

[opelblitz]

Jim B.

If the pistons are good but they will be too small, I will find a block and start over. Is my thinking right?

Ken

 

[Jim Branham]

Sounds right to me.

 

[madhatterpdc]

another option is to have the offending cylinder bored and resleeved.

There have been many heated discussions regarding this topic on this board. Run a search of past discussions and see what that turns up. I have not tried this personally, so I can neither recommend nor discourage this idea. Just voicing another option that might save you the trouble of finding another block.

 

[GTJIM (R.I.P.)]

WHY??

More to the point - why did the bore get scored?

Did a gudgeon pin come loose or the circlips pop out?
(two parallel lines the width of the pin apart in front or rear of bore)

Did the piston "nip up" and seize to the bore during startup?
(tear marks on the skirt of the piston due to lack of lube)

Did the rings bind up in the bore?
(too little end gap)

Since it has only done 1200 miles serious questions need to be asked of the engine builder - if you paid him/her good money then there should be some basic consumer guarantee.

If it is a 1900 block bore to 95mm then there is unlikely to be enough thickness left in the cylinder wall to bore it out and sleeve it. So another block would be needed.

Check the pistons carefully for damage and unless it is serious they can probably be reused. If they are Venolia's and one is beyond use they can probably make you another one the same.

Something had to be seriously wrong for that damage to happen.

 

[Old Hippie]

Don't take the engine apart any more than you have! You do have consummer rights. Get another machine shop or auto shop to inspect it and write up a evaluation on it. Show that and the enine to the rebuilder and ask them what they plan on doing about it.
my 2c's

 

[TGSI Racing]

I've read this same story over and over. Opel folks...

HAVE YOUR ENGINE WORK DONE BY SOMEONE WHO KNOWS OPELS!!!!

Most will probably have to pay extra for the shipping... often a lot extra... but it saves this pain and cost.

The folks who did the work on this engine may indeed be a good shop. However, most good shops do not know anything about what to look out for on Opels. Those who "do" Opels know what to look out for.

So, what to do now? Like Old Hippie said, you may have recourse to the shop that did the work. First, talk to them. Everyone makes occasional mistakes and good shops will "make it good". They will obviously want to inspect it, so this is where it could get "sticky". What they "should" claim responsibility for is anything they did... but not stuff they didn't do (like replace the chain guide). Also, if you took the pistons to them, then they could say the pistons/rings were faulty.

Another option is to get your engine to an Opel expert to do the tear down and inspection. Tell the Opel expert what's going on. Photograph and document everything during the disassembly. This might give you recourse and the shop that did the work might make it good. But you may also get into "dueling experts" and a legal battle... they are unlikely be willing to pay for someone elses labor.

Some "weasel words"... I am not a legal expert, nor consumer rights expert. Do not take this as a legal or consumer rights recommendation. If you need that kind of advise, go to the professional experts at such advice. Just like my first comments... when you want something done right, GO TO THE EXPERTS!

 

[opelblitz]

Well,
heres the deal.... he is long time Opel builder. I did call him and he was willing to have it checked out. But I'm sure for a fee. But he is 170 miles away. And he put the AC in and rebuilt the motor and had the car for 3 years. I had to put major pressure to get the car back. I do have the block that came out of my car. It never burned oil, I just wanted more power to go with the 5 speed and AC. I may just put new rings in it and call it a day.????
Or do I try the chevy 265 route?
Ken.

I have loved these cars for over 37 years when I saw my first one at 9 years old. I need to drive her again....I'm sure you understand.

 

[anastosmotors]

maybe the problem!!!!
you can not use opel piston rings on venolia pistons.
gruves are different
pete

 

[opelblitz]

I got the rings from Bob at the same time. I'm sure there was nothing wrong with the pistons and rings before they were inistalled.

 

[GTJIM (R.I.P.)]

GET IT GOING!

Good idea to re-ring the original motor and check the bearings with a valve grind and get your GT on the road again so you can get a "fix" of opelitis.

I would suggest you speak to the mechanic at the local garage you use for your daily driver ( a GM - I hope!) and ask his opinion about your "venolia" motor. Don't get him to fix it at this stage just ask for his professional opinion why he thinks it happened.
Don't go into any detail on who built it or tell him a sad story - just ask his opinion.

If you know of any local "dirt track" racers and their mechanics they could help too as they see engines with all sorts of problems on a pretty regular basis - particularly in the "claimer" classes.
They nail together some good engines on low, low budgets and run them hard.

Just ask around and don't get anyone touch that "venolia" engine till you know why it failed then approach the "long time Opel builder" for a repair or ask him to recommend someone who can repair it. Put the acid on him to perform as it is his reputation at stake in the Opel world.

Get some fun out of your GT as soon as possible to ward off the inevitable depression this sort of thing causes and rest assured that you have a lot of Opel Guys and Girls out here for support - even if they are thousands of miles away, like me

 

[opelblitz]

Over the weekend I came to the decision that I will put my original block back in with the new head and drive, drive. I will keep you'all posted

Ken

 

[opelblitz]

She is running again. The original block was used with 94,000 miles on it. I could still see the factory boring marks. Changed all the gaskets, put the big valve head on it and boom it started and ran very smooth after we saw the distributor was 180 out. My friend Alan was a big help.


................ Request for Help ................................

Does anybody have a quiet '72 or '73 hub to hub rear end for a GT they can sell me? I live in S.C. and if you are in the South East that would be a big Plus. I have found one with a warranty in CA, but shipping may put it out of reach.