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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm almost ready to take the pundge and get a new engine...its going to happen within the next 2 months (I hope). So, right now I'm think of going with a 2.4 and 2.4 FI. Basically I was wondering exactly how much is 'bolt in' vs what you need to modify to make it work. I wasnt able to find a terrible amount using the search here on actuall installs, so who has actaully gone through with this conversion and what would I need to do to have a fully function 2.4 with FI in my gt? I plan on doing the exhuast and upgrading the radaditor. I already have a big clutch and plan on using the 5 speed getrag.

....as a side note are than any advantages with using a dual DCOE setup vs the 2.4 FI? Thanks in advance for the help.
 

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The engine goes in just like a 1.9L All important external dimensions of the block are identical to the 1.9. So, this is a true bolt in.

The fuel injection will give you the most problem. You need to run a FI pump and you will need return lines to the fuel tank. You will also need to figure out a cable arrangement for the FI throttle body. Last, you will need to wire up all of the FI stuff. You should get a FI wiring harness with the FI to make it much easier. Then the only thing you need to do is "patch" it into your existing wiring. Be sure to get a complete FI system with all of the sensors, relays, etc.

Webers vs. FI. The webers will give you more power with a modified engine... especially if you put a performance cam in it. The FI will be more driveable. Just don't do much modification to the engine or the "magic computer" won't know what to do.

Ultimately, the most HP along with driveability will be obtained with FI and an after market "magic computer". You can modify the engine as much as you want and reprogram the "magic computer"... you might also have to change fuel injectors to get enough flow. This is my favorite set-up and I will be using it in our race GT4 next year... with dual side draft FI throttle bodies.
 

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I just turned over the first 650 miles on my home made 2.4 with Dual Webers. Be ready for a bit of maintenance with the Webers but you can do things like wave goodbye out the back window at 55 punch to some of the snootier late model cars (a very dumbfounded Golf GTI comes to mind as I write) while they are doing their darnest just to keep up (they now having given up on the idea that they would pass you).

Carbs are straightforward, no black magic computers needed. All the instructions are here if you want to build a 2.4. and make it work with Webers.

It can be the cheapest way to go unless you find a deal somewhere.

Think about your kind of driving. For a weekend warrior or above, ok for the hot cam and carbs. I spend about 15 minutes of maintenance for every 5 hours driving and that is normal driving. The carbs are finicky and like to shed nuts and whatever else they can. The linkage can be tricky unless you buy a kit.

I think the performance is worth it. I am not an expert nor a mechanic but have managed to build one. It is a riot to drive.
Building a 2.4 from a cost less than buying a ratty old 2.4 from god knows where.
 

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Hey Calvin what do you mean by "homemade 2.4"??
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
calvin: Which webers did you go with 45 dcoe's and what manifold? And how do the webers handle elevation changes? I'm in the bottom of a valley at 7200ft. Has anyone played with the dco webers? I've seen them on a few drag/race vw buggies in the winners circle. Do the dco's require different manifold's? Also in retrospect, what would you have done differently or any potential hangups you spotted? Thanks for the information.
 

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Calvin,
do you have any pictures of the motor during the conversion? I plan do to the same thing this fall but I will probly do the torqer intake with a Holley 500.
 

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Sorry Kmon i missed your post. Those are cannon intakes which are not good as they curve...however if you weld them up like I did and port them they are now straight shot.

I have DCOE 40ies not 45ies. the 40ies qualify for more SCCA classes.

I have 36 venturies (32 are what is allowed but mine is a street car for now) with 165 mains, 110 idle, and f16 emulsion tubes

on elevation and webers..that is one for the experts

I am at about 300 feet and we go all the way up to maybe 900 so it is not an issue here in STL

a lot of the parts in the DCOE 40ies and 45ies are the same as the downdraft 44 webers so i bet they are comprible actually.
 

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Question " Also in retrospect, what would you have done differently or any potential hangups you spotted? Thanks for the information."


Different. Hmmm.. Have more money and sent the whole car to Rogers Opel engineering, had him build it, restore the car and call me when it was ready to drive home..lol

Seriously I would of put in a roll cage when I had the car apart for one

I should of first gotten every one of Mr. Legree's posts on this engine off this web sight, Opel tuners.com and the yahoo classic Opel’s group hard copy, plus the ones Travis made on the heads and the distributor and TGSI racing engine 101.. I mean read everything... the questions, the answers everything. Make several HARD COPIES Most everything you can think of is there but have copies to give away.

Realize you will have to replace almost everything. So get all the parts together before you go to the machine shop. That way you won’t think you are all done and have the machine shop say “what about the tensioners?” Because then you will wait to weeks just to have them go “now about that timing chain cover”... my engine went into the shop in Aug of last year and came out in June of this year... and it wasn't a money thing… it was just getting everything together.

Have the shop strip the engine done and go over every little part and make a list of what is needed. If you get stuck call OGTS they will get you the part.

It will take me some time but I will put all the notes I kept together to augment what the racers and experts said to do. Sort of a Rally Bob for Idiots if others don’t have objections. any idea that is or was mine i will mark so people can take it with a grain of salt and be properly dubious. All my notes are lifted from the Opel web sights and are by no means my own


c
 

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I will dyo it someday. After i paint it. Cash is in short supply. I am still working out bugs as i am not totally happy with the distributor I keep thinking there must be a better way. I just don't trust the little bolt and the solder. I need maybe smaller wieghts or something. Last time i took the distrib apart it was dry and the wieghts did not move freely so I fixed that and redid it but am going to check it again real soon.

c
 
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