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Opeler
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is the heater blower motor in a 1971 GT supposed to have 2 speeds? The reason I ask is when I switch it on, it works but it isn't very powerful. When I try to go to the second setting it just turn off. I thought there was a problem with the switch, but it seems to be operating correctly. Thanks!
 

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Yes, it is a 2 speed Blower.

There are two wires which connect to the blower box. They are located under the dash on the passenger side. Very easy access. One wire passes through a resistor(located inside the blower) for the low speed and the other one is hooked directly to the blower motor(high speed). Check to see if the any of the wires have come off of their mounts, a common problem.
 

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Non Civilian
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2,091 Posts
I just installed a GM one wire alt. saturday and that seemed to solve my weak blower motor, slow wipers and dim lights. i cant believe i waited so long to do this mod. only took me about 4 hours to get it all to work.

chris
 

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101st Airborne 1/327 Inf
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Updated Alt

Hey OPELWASP, what is the model number for your purchased alt? Also the max number of amp and did you change the voltage regulator to electric?
 

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alt

Hold off on the alternator upgrade a little while if you're seriously contemplating one. I've recently completed a new "how to" you'll want to read, but I'm holding off on posting it here to give the Blitz a bit of a head start. One benefit of being a member of OMC...
 

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101st Airborne 1/327 Inf
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Okay OLDOPELGUY, I am looking forward to your posting of alternative alternator upgrades ........
 

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Opeler
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I fixed it. The blower was wired incorrectly at the switch. Also I fixed the cig lighter/ power outlet in the process. I am nearly finished with my electrical upgrade. This includes a new 63 amp alternator and a complete rewire in the new system design from Mad Electrical . the only thing I have to finish up are the new CD deck install and the relays for the headlights.

It has taken me a few weeks mostly research, but the system seems to be working great. A lot of the information came from this board so thanks to everyone!
 

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Agrieve, Are you using the relays from Mad Electrical, or another brand? I've been reading their relay section and had thought about using their distribution block to run the relays for my headlights and electric fan, to get the full benefit of the voltage. Plus get the current draw away from the fuse block to some degree. I have already upgraded to a one wire alternator and saw a noticable difference. But I'm a little worried about the added Amps to the stressed fuse block. I also thought about running a blade type fuse, off the relays to the headlights in case of of a short. Jarrell
 

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Opeler
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I ordered the relays from a different source waytek wire

the stuff I used from MAD are the terminal blocks, various connectors and the alternator kit. I recommend you get his how-to books and use fusible links. I will try to take some pictures soon to show the alternator wiring as well as the terminal blocks.
 

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Army Opeler
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blower motor pain

having a heck of a time with my blower motor. replaced it with a rebuilt from opelsource but still nothing. i seem to have two sets of wires. one set has black (ground) and a red wire. the other is black (ground) and black with red and white. not sure where to hook any of these up. i see the second set is attached clear over to the left behind the dash and one wire goes to white panel and one goes to yellow panel. not sure how the switch is supposed to come into the picture. :banghead:
 

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Mark, the blower motor is grounded by a brown wire on the mounting stud to hold the heater package in the hole. The Black wire is the high speed connection and the Black/Red/White wire is the low speed connection from the switch. I guess the best way to check out which wire goes where on the heater is to plug them onto the spade lugs and see what happens. Or if you have the motor out, just hook up a battery or charger, negative to the ground and positive to either of the spade lugs and note the blower speed. HTH.
 

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Agrieve said:
Is the heater blower motor in a 1971 GT supposed to have 2 speeds? The reason I ask is when I switch it on, it works but it isn't very powerful. When I try to go to the second setting it just turn off. I thought there was a problem with the switch, but it seems to be operating correctly. Thanks!
I have just the opposite problem- when I turn on the fan to low, it blows a fuse but high runs just fine. At first I suspected the switch but could it be the resistor?? Any one had a similar problem and if so, what was the fix:cool:
 

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Move the wire on the blower, located just under the glovebox where your feet go, from the low speed tab to the high speed tab. Turn the blower on low. If it runs on high speed, the problem is the resistor. To remove the resistor, you have to remove the blower box. To remove the blower box you must remove the dash and dashpad. This is a big undertaking.

Jeff
 

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jlthunder said:
.. located just under the glovebox where your feet go, from the low speed tab to the high speed tab.
Jeff
I don't know what year it changed but on the earlier model GT's the wiring is located on the top of the blower housing not underneath where it is easy to get to. I've had some luck just cleaning the connections to the blower motor.

Harold
 

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The wires are easy to get to. What I mean by under the glove box is in the foot well on the passenger side you will see the blower box located above your feet or Calves. The wires are right there. I'm not aware of any other styles other than the location of the heater valve. I have 4 heater boxes in stock and they are all the same.
 

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Opel Addicts
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Differences in Heater wiring

Vickie's 69 GT has a different wiring arrangement than all of the other ones (later build years) we have. I know this because I drove her car to the custom builder's house to compare when we were working on wiring. Because the blower motor on the custom was from a later year than the 69, it was no help at all. We really had to burn some brain cells to figure it out the problem -- our switch was faulty. After replacing the switch and figuring out how the wiring works it was much easier!

So yes, there is a difference in the wiring between the earlier and later models.


Allen:cool:
 

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Bad news- after spending all afternoon working in 95 degree heat and 90% humidity on what else- my HEATER FAN- I now can confirm that it is shot.:banghead:


Good news- I live in Houston.:bigok:
 

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Army Opeler
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ceramic blower motor piece

still having problems with my blower motor. when i took it out of the car and tested it, it works, however i noticed that there is a ceramic piece wrapped in wire that is on the inside of the case. on the outside is where the ground wire and brown/purple/white wire is supposed to connect. the ceramic piece is broken, can i replace with any old ceramic piece or do i need to get from somewhere. would really like to get this thing working.
 

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The ceramic piece is the resistor. When you hook power to the resistor, the fan should spin but at a slower rate than hooking it directly to the blower motor, i.e. resistance. The ceramic piece is to absorb heat from the resistor wire. You can try to replace the ceramic, but I'm sure someone here has a spare resistor.

Jeff
 

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Opeler
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weird wires, broken cable

I'm going through a spare heater box assembly because the one in my GT makes a horrid racket when it first comes on. I have to tear in there anyway as the heater lever/cable/valve is not operational and I want to fix it.
so I took apart the spare box to get at the motor to make sure it works, two wires coming out of motor, one black one red. One post here says it is grounded through the box casing with a brown wire and then a black and a black/red/white wire. Not the case for my spare (not sure about what's in the car now, 1970).
I put the red on the + terminal of a battery, the black on - and the motor took off (just for a split second).
I suspect my current (in the car) motor just has some crap in the box and I can clean it out.
Now the question: both my boxes have the cable to the heater valve broken. Both controls seem okay, just busted cables. Can one just get the cable off the shelf and replace? (the thin "wire" portion and run it through the existing sheating) Looks like a pain the way those cables are attached on the control arms, probably better to splice in.
Any one done this?
 
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