Opel GT Forum banner
21 - 30 of 30 Posts

·
Senior Contributor
Joined
·
5,052 Posts
If you are taking out the whole heater box anyway, replacing the cables with the OGTS ones is no big deal.
 

·
Opeler
Joined
·
1,768 Posts
I haven't found cables at OTGS site yet, but I'll go look again.
At the moment, I'm planning on the pulling it out to put it to rights since it needs to have the motor at least cleaned and lubed and the cable fixed if not replaced and the vent tubing fixed up. I want to change out the stereo anyway, and fix the clock. (no idea how to pull the dash with a OTGS stitched vinyl cover on it though, seems to have covered those screws by the windshield)
The routing for my heater core lines has been customized too, probably to accomodate a Fuel Injector or Twins or something.
Where is the heater valve supposed to be? A picture would be awesome.
I have cleaned up my old valve which was disconntected bypassed) by PO and got it to slide again although with a but of force needed, maybe more then a cable can apply while "pushing' although "pulling" should be fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,344 Posts
If you can't find the cables in their on-line catalog, give them a call, they may have some used ones that will be better than broken ones. Also if you have the original plastic heater control panel, think seriously about getting their aluminum one. It's very well done and is an easy swap, a bit pricey, but it will never get old, brittle, and break. After you replace the cables and hoses from the heater box, the water valve is easy to figure out, it goes at the end of the cable, after you route it alongside the tubes from the heater box through the hole in the heater cavity to the engine compartment.
 

·
Opeler
Joined
·
1,768 Posts
Mine situation is pretty "custom" hoses have been rerouted for some reason, this thread is now pretty much the same babble as this one so I'll pick one and stick with it.
http://www.opelgt.com/forums/group-...34-heater-core-hose-hook-up-2.html#post117642

there's picture and video there if interested

I'm sure I can make something work.
I have two original control panels, both are functional (as far as I can tell yet, one's still in the car) just broken cables and such. I'm sure I'll continue where the PO left off and make something workl
 

·
Member
Joined
·
273 Posts
NO more Bowden cables !

Hey Guys,

If you want something really cool (ing) try replacing your Bowden-cable-operated always clogging, old school slider valve technology with a
12 Volt DC-operated solenoid valve: which ports the engine hot water to the cab heater box with the flick of a switch as I did in the Aero GT Replica.

I have pictures and part nos and manufacturers of the Solenoid-Valve if you are interested. (just don't have them at the moment).

Just think: no MORE Bowden cables.

(some assembly required)

jj
 

·
Member
Joined
·
273 Posts
1st Photo found

When I mash the Heater switch up or down, it being a 2-speed motor both positions opens the Heater Solenoid Valve. My high speed is continously variable from stop to max, and low is low.

Heater Sw is on the right
 

·
Opeler
Joined
·
1,768 Posts
Sounds like a good idea, I have to either fix or replace the Bowden cable to the heater valve (which is pretty crappy anyway and currently bypassed and without a "real" home to boot). This sounds like a great solution. How is it done?
 

·
Detritus Maximus
Joined
·
2,873 Posts
To replace your heater control cables:

-buy two or three (depends on how many you need and the length of what is available) manual choke cables from Autozone/PepBoys/Kragen/etc.
-cut to length, modify to attach to the heater control levers
-cover length of outer sheath with heatshrink tubing.
-remove wire and lube it as you insert it back into the outer sheath.

Did mine...7 years ago, work great.
 
21 - 30 of 30 Posts
Top