I have an aggressive performance camshaft that I do not need or want. It was in my 2.0 engine when I bought it. I did not have the carburetor or the experience to make it work in my GT. It lopes and sounds mean but I just didn't know what it was at the time or how to tune it.Dieter
After you mentioned it I looked the coat over again, it does look like the design could be moved up some. I need to go by the shop for some other stuff so I will talk to Dave about it. Nor sure if it's a set up thing.
I had encouraged Mel to let folks know what he had left to get rid of. Anyone else who has parts that need to find a new home, lets just post them on this thread. I happen to have a Sprint Manifold and a Ceramic Coated Header that could take up residence in another Garage.
Bob Legere identified it as the following:
If anyone is interested, I can let it go for $100 and I can bring it with me to Springfield.rallybob said:The CR1 cam was a Cam Techniques F-290-8.
.435” valve lift, 242 degrees @ .050”, 288 degrees advertises duration, 108 degree lobe separation angle.
Not a racing cam, but healthy. Recommendations back in the day were: at least 10:1 compression ratio, 38 DGAS or bigger, ported intake, 2” exhaust with Sprint or header, big valve head. Requirements were a recurved distributor, deleted vacuum advance. Generally 12-18 degrees timing at idle depending upon compression ratio. Max 34-36 degrees.
Definitely required trimming the power valve spring.
Often required a drilled throttle plate for proper idle circuit function.
So not a ‘stock’ cam by any means. However I saw an 18 hp improvement in one of my engines using this cam, compared to a mild hydraulic.