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Here's an interesting question for the group. Is an opel GT 1900 engine that has 207k miles on it rebuildable? Keep in mind that the majority of the miles have been highway, and that the car has been very well maintained with frequent oil changes and tune ups.

My dad doesn't think it's worth rebuilding. He thinks you'd have to do some major "sleeving" (his words).

What do y'all think?

J
 

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there is really no way to tell by milage and meintence.....i've had a motor with only 45 thousand and it was junk, and one had 128 thousand and it was in better condition. you'd really have to pull the head off, maybe a compression check could tell you something though.
 

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If he's concerned about a 'ridge' at the top of the bore, this is seldom the case with Opels. The cast iron in their blocks is of a far higher quality than say, a Chevy V8.

Other than from parts ingestion, I 've never seen an Opel blocknot clean up with a .020" overbore, and there's a lot more meat left there for a bigger bore still.

When I ran my Opel parts company, there were many Opels running around as daily drivers with 150-200,000 miles on them, and I had a few customers with 300,000+ miles that had never had their engines opened up.

One customer had an Opel wagon with 420,000 miles on it. The body had been repaired 6 times from rust (new framerails, new rocker panels, wheel arches, etc.), the rear axle had been rebuilt twice, and the tranny once. But the engine was OEM with the exception of valve guides, valve seals, and a valve job at 350k or so. When the body finally fell apart, the owner was emotionally crushed...he had the car since new and it still ran like a top.....

Bob
 

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My 2-cents worth: if it wasn't knocking, pinging, dinging or thumping or whumping, It's a good one with lots of heart. I'd never trust a sleeve-job, but thats just me. A valve job, as R.Bob said, and a good mike-ing for trueness and wear. Then overhaul (I wish they still had kits available!) it. I love solid steel over aluminum, but hey I'm old-fashion and don't mind a some pounds over (hmm....me or the car).
:D
 

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plenty-o-life left

I just bought a Kadett with 550,000+ miles on it, and the block is still useable. In fact, with a track record like that, it's probably the block I'll use when I finally get around to building my "killer" motor this winter. With Karma like that, how could I go wrong?
 

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My daily driver (73 Manta Raylle) is approaching 400,000. It has never been bored out. It has had rings and bearings a few times but still runs strong. Once you look at cylinder wear you will know what direction to go,best of luck!

DAN
 

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Sleeving isn't bad

Guy, lose the old attitude about sleeving a block. It is actually a good thing. The steel sleeze is less likely to wear like the cast iron. And the engine runs cooler also. If a shop does a sleev job on the cylinder walls, you shouldn't even be able to tell if it was done right. I know of many racers running on sleeves. I know of one running on 7 sleeves and no problems. Actually problems with the cast iron walls, and not the sleeves. It cost about 24.00 to sleeve a cylinder so it is very practicaal, if you don't have another block. I personally run with one cyl sleeved. Things aren't being done old school anymore sometimes. Most people that say they don't trust sleeves, has never run them and just heard a bad story about one from a shop that didn't know how to properly do the job. My two cents worth: I'd perfer a block with four sleeves, than one bored out .060 . Rebuilding that 245k block is no problem, as long as everything is inspected, turned down, and cleaned and redone.
Keith
 

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Re: plenty-o-life left

oldopelguy said:
I just bought a Kadett with 550,000+ miles on it, and the block is still useable. In fact, with a track record like that, it's probably the block I'll use when I finally get around to building my "killer" motor this winter. With Karma like that, how could I go wrong?
Does this mean you got the Rallye?
 

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I agree that sleeving is not a bad thing. A quality sleeve plus a knowledgable machinist is all that is required for a good job.

I will be sleeving my 'monster' turbo Opel engine when the time comes, as the sleeves are stronger than the block material. I am considering sleeving the block for my land speed record attempt GT.

I personally have not seen steel sleeves used (steel does not retain oil as well as iron), but I will be using centrifugally-cast ductile iron sleeves from Darton for my extreme turbo application. They will (hopefully) have to deal with 140-150 hp per cylinder....

Bob
 

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Sleeves

I tore down a Mercedes diesel engine a few years back and had the local machine shop install sleeves (cheaper than buying next size pistons). Ran fine. And if a sleeve can stand up to the stresses in a diesel, they should do just fine in a much lower compression gasoline engine.
 

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Does this mean you got the Rallye?-

Yes, Gary, another silly Kadett has joined my stable.

How could I turn down that kind of mileage and a plywood floor to boot?

On the sleeves, when the engine in my truck was being rebuilt, a 500+hp, 600+#/ft Dodge 440, one cylinder was found to have almost microscopic cracks in the cylinder wall. The cylinder was sleeved and there hasn't been a problem at all. I couldn't even tell you where the sleeve is, as all cmpressions are within 5# of each other.
 

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:eek: I stand corrected. I had a friend in So.Jersey (way back when) that had a sleeve job go bad, so I've had that attude for a while. Since there are good reviews on them, I'll take back a penny from my 2-cents. :rolleyes:
 

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oldopelguy said:
Does this mean you got the Rallye?-

Yes, Gary, another silly Kadett has joined my stable.

How could I turn down that kind of mileage and a plywood floor to boot?
Cool :cool: I'm sure you made an old Opeler very happy!
 
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