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Discussion Starter #321
The wagon never made it to the movie set (my GT was in it twice). The night before, the car stalled about a mile from my house and it was towed home. The motor was a little tight to turn over and there was a leak in the oil pan so I decided to pull it. Found the rear main bearing had spun... Turns out the crankshaft shop screwed up and didn't turn the main down to its proper dimension and when I put it together, I only palsti-gauged the rods not the mains. All Cape Machine Shop in Hyannis, MA was able to line bore the mains and save the motor. I also had them do the valves while it was there. I brazed over the pinhole pan leak. I've put about 300 miles on it and it is running great with no drips.

Finally getting to do the "nice to have" things: I cut out the floor and made a patch so the clutch now has enough travel. Relocated the gas pedal so it sits at a better angle. Changed the 3 inch 4-point harness to a 2 inch 4-point. Added an air extractor to the hood to help lower the underhood temps.

I changed over to coilovers for the rear suspension a while back. The coilovers I picked up at a swap meet were from a circle track car and have very little rebound so it gave a pretty stiff ride. I was looking for replacements when a pair showed up on facebook marketplace. Got a great deal on them and they came with 3 sets of springs. Winter project!
 

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Haven't been overally active on this site for a few years. How's the awesome wagon project working out? Still running around I hope.
 

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Discussion Starter #325 (Edited)
The new coilovers are a huge improvement in the ride and handling. I also found a broken wire in the coil connector that was causing intermittent misfiring problems.

I was also able to fix the excessive play in the shifter on the R25-28. The original linkage was shortened, modified to a 'short shift', and a Mustang shift lever welded on. I initially used a clevis pin with two brackets to connect the shifter to the tranny. There was play in the middle bushing and side play in the clevis pin which caused difficultly going to first or reverse.

I picked up several bushings from McMaster Carr and came up with a combination using a locking shoulder bolt, 2 bushings and 2 shims (The spacers in the pic copy the brackets in the other pic). Installed it and shimmed the bracket so the movement to 1/2 and 5/R were equal.

This mod made a world of difference. The pattern is now tight and precise.

It is nice to be at a point where I can do the "nice to have" mods.
 

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Discussion Starter #326
The wagon had a misfire and felt like it didn't have the power that it should. It had the original injectors in it so I ordered a "rebuilt" set ($50 for 8).
While waiting for them, I decided to do a compression check. #5 & #6 wires and plugs had a coating on them and #6 plug was loose and #5 was finger tight.

A brainstorming session with RallyBob and pic of the plug hole determined that rain water was getting under the plug wire cover and filling up #5 & #6 plug holes. There was a 1/8" gap where the 2 cover pieces met allowing rain water to get under the cover. I drilled two holes in the back web of the cover and sealed the cover and gap.

Looking at the intake ports, it looks like #1 injector was not spraying and #3 was the only one with a full pattern. So I was probably running on 4 1/2 cylinders.

What a difference in performance! The car jumps with just a toe wiggle and the tires light up in second gear without the dual ram kicking in. :burnout:

I have an American made brake booster on the way to help stop this beast.
 

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Discussion Starter #327
Go Fast, Stop Fast

Despite upgraded 4 wheel disc brakes, the braking power in "Das Biest" was not up to my expectations. A lot of pedal pressure was needed to bring it to a stop.

I initially used a "Hot Rod" style dual booster with a 'vette style master cylinder. The master failed after a few hundred miles and was replaced with one made for dual disc brakes (eliminating the proportional valve).

I began to think that the original combo was a knockoff made in China. Mr Google took me to https://www.tuffstuffperformance.com where I found a 'Made in the USA' booster with the same dimensions and I ordered one from Speedway Motors.

Comparing the two, is was easy to see the difference in quality and the Tuff Stuff was also heavier. I made a spacer to keep proper clearance between the master's piston and booster.

Installed it today and what a difference! I can actually lock up the brakes.

The old booster used a yoke to connect to the pedal which caused the booster rod to be at a slight angle. Not sure if that contributed to its failure, but the new one uses a clevis that connects on the side and it is straight.
 

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Discussion Starter #328
"Das Biest" is much more fun to drive now that I'm confident in the brakes. The AF gauge is reading normal with the new injectors and the motor is running smoothly.
 

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Discussion Starter #331
Next Up: Power Steering

I'm going to attempt to add electric power steering to the wagon.

Saturn Vue EPS' are cheap and plentiful in local yards and there were several available for $50. I found a controller that "senses" your steering wheel movement and adjusts the EPS accordingly. Adjustment by a potentiometer is no longer needed.

I used the pedal assembly from a Senator which gives me more room around the steering column. I'll have to see if that gives enough clearance.
 

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I found a controller that "senses" your steering wheel movement and adjusts the EPS accordingly. Adjustment by a potentiometer is no longer needed.
This is the best controller for street application. I have similar controller integrated in my Unisteer PS. It has torque sensor measuring the resistance vs. steering wheel movement. The advantage is that when the PS assist is not needed (typical when the car is in motion), it draws very low amperage. It kicks-in at car's low speed (typical when parking). So, the benefit is less stress on electrical system and not too "soft" steering at normal driving conditions.

As per my experience, PS system still requires upgraded alternator. I found that standard 35A alternator does not develop enough amperage when the engine is idling, therefore lowering power steering assistance during parallel parking. But I assume that you have upgraded alternator like many of us.
 

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Discussion Starter #336
This is the best controller for street application. I have similar controller integrated in my Unisteer PS. It has torque sensor measuring the resistance vs. steering wheel movement. The advantage is that when the PS assist is not needed (typical when the car is in motion), it draws very low amperage. It kicks-in at car's low speed (typical when parking). So, the benefit is less stress on electrical system and not too "soft" steering at normal driving conditions.

As per my experience, PS system still requires upgraded alternator. I found that standard 35A alternator does not develop enough amperage when the engine is idling, therefore lowering power steering assistance during parallel parking. But I assume that you have upgraded alternator like many of us.
I am using a 105 amp alternator from a 1996 GMC.
 
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