Opel GT Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thinking about pulling the trigger on my first Opel GT project and need feedback. Is $2,500 too much for an Opel with straight body and only surface rust.

Interior is shot (worse dash I've ever seen) doesnt start (not sure if the engine even turns)

Is $2500 a good price for an example of a really good body?

Thanks guys-
-Steve
 

·
Solo II is fun in a GT!
Joined
·
604 Posts
The price seem reasonable. But the money is in the body, everything else is not terribly expensive with the exception of trim parts and windshields. Check for rust in the floor, rocker panel, front and fenders. Rust, body damage and previous accidents kill these cars and kills projects.
 

·
Registered
The Young One
Joined
·
1,754 Posts
That price doesn’t seem bad. Do you have any pictures of the car? From pictures we can tell a lot more on what it is worth.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SteveMurphy

·
Registered
Joined
·
929 Posts
Even my car, a desert car, that had two guys look over it, had significant rust in the wheelwells and rockers that I only noticed a year after I bought it. And all needed replacing.

So the difference between a body that looks like it has no rust, and one that actually isn't rusted nearly through from the inside, is a huge difference in effort you'll have to put in and should reflect a huge difference in cost. I paid $200/each for mine, so, what was an amazing deal turned out to be only a good deal, no complaints. But I would've been pretty upset if I'd paid $2500 and then later found the rust.

My favorite example of this, is a gentleman here, who started fixing the rust. He went through the front half of the car and patched and patched and patched, and then when he moved onto the rear of the car he discovered the same amount of rust and threw in the towel and sold the car.

Here is a picture when he sold it, these pictures are the same car at the same time, tell from the outside whether you think it has rust:

Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Hood


There's hardly anything left of the rockers, the floorboards are mostly through, and the wheelwells are rusted through the inside of the car, let alone the inside of the wheelwell/rocker area.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,167 Posts
MattsA-S has it pegged. Metallurgy with respect to rust prevention science was pretty primitive fifty years ago, and the design of the car was such that dirt and dust would kick up and work its way through the seams, behind front and rear wheels and inside the rocker panels, When water got in (even from just washing the car) the dirt and dust turned to mud and just sat against the body work. The owner never had an indication of anything wrong until the rust had worked its way to the outside surface, starting inside the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sounds pretty straight forward. If the interior is shot, the seller shouldn't mind me pulling up the carpet to check out interior rust. I would think everything else is straight forward - check every square inch - walk/crawl around the car completely. I think I need to bring a good flashlight, a screw driver to poke hard to reach areas, and maybe bring a floor jack and jack stands too.

I'm not worried about square floor pans, thats easy to fix - what scares me are curves and compound surfaces which is about 99% of an Opel GT!!!

I really think I'll do a hard pass on any car with rust through issues. I'd rather wait for the right car to come along or save up and get a more finished car without body issues period.

Thanks for everyones input, I truly appreciate it.
 

·
Über Genius
Joined
·
10,021 Posts
You're paying for a car body. And a few auxiliary parts.
It's worth what you're willing to pay but I won't buy a car that doesn't run.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
929 Posts
Sounds pretty straight forward. If the interior is shot, the seller shouldn't mind me pulling up the carpet to check out interior rust. I would think everything else is straight forward - check every square inch - walk/crawl around the car completely. I think I need to bring a good flashlight, a screw driver to poke hard to reach areas, and maybe bring a floor jack and jack stands too.
Sounds like you've got it covered.

I'm not worried about square floor pans, thats easy to fix - what scares me are curves and compound surfaces which is about 99% of an Opel GT!!!
Yep, that mirrored my thoughts. Welding on the interior, floor, etc, no big deal, it's hidden anyways. But the outside surfaces I'd throw in the towel.

Much as I was scared of them, rockers actually aren't that bad to replace either, they're easy to weld (20g instead of 22g) and you can hide the welds. But the fenders are another story.

The most common spot for rust is the battery shelf, but that's hidden, flat, square, and easily replaced (and was generally due to battery acid spills, not rot).

But the next most common is the space forward and aft of the rockers. And those always rot from the inside. Especially bad is the forward part of the rear wheelwell, because that cavity has no drainage and though at the same height, is internally blocked off from the rockers (which do have drainage). So any dust or moisture that gets in, now lives there forever... in an area that constantly has water and dirt kicked up at it from the rear tires.

It's not hard to tell the difference between surface rust and interior rust. Surface rust always has the paint abraded away and is fairly consistent. Interior rust is quite pinhole-like and comes blistering through the paint.

I took a couple videos when I was doing mine. The both end by me scoping the rocker panels, stop watching soon as I start doing those, but, it shows you what starts off looking not too bad and then you can see how rotted it is.



I really think I'll do a hard pass on any car with rust through issues. I'd rather wait for the right car to come along or save up and get a more finished car without body issues period.
You might have difficulty finding one.

Grouchy as I've been about finding more and more rust on my car, nothing within a day's drive of me has turned up in the 3 years since that I'd have rather bought instead. You're on the upper end for what I think is a good price for a rust-free car without much else usable. I'd say the price should drop $500 for every palm-sized section of rust you find. You find 4 of them, that's now a $500 car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
While I am doing other projects right now, when my son got me back into GT's by getting me one for fathers day a few years back: I would say that I have fixed 1 up and cut 2 up for just being too far gone. So to have the 3 current GT's that I have on the road, I have cut up 5 or 6 other cars for parts. Up north with our long winters, when the cars set outside in the dirt, they rot out pretty fast. The humidity is so high in the summer and into fall that the inside of the car rots and the longer it sits, the less that works or can be saved on the internal parts. Putting a tarp on top of the car and letting it set outside unless you live in an ultra-dry area, is accelerating the decay of the car, not helping it. Rusted cars don't bother me so much as rusted cars that PO's have filled with foam, tape, fiberglass patches, and Bondo.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top