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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in the process of (just starting) to do the 3.4L and the T5 swap.

Is there anyone who can give me insite as to what is needed to match the T5 with the 3.4L engine. The bell housing does not look like it matches up. Is there a kit or what needs to be done. I went this route since it looks like it has been done before by a few Opel gt projects already. I am commited since I just bought the engine and the tranny.

1995 3.4L v6 Chevy engine and a 1992 T5 2.8L Manual Tran from and Chevy S10.
 

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go to the articles section and look for "willit?" by namba209. he's extensively covered his swap in great detail of the 3.4 liter and T5 swap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Figured it out, thanks

Well,
I am well into namba209's foot steps.

I have the car gutted out, a new 1.9L rearend to replace the whimpy 1.1L that was in there.

I also had some trailing arms fabricated out of solid 3/4" doll rods and new bushings from GTSource.

I also have the flair kit and the belly pan.

The car engine compartment has had the cuts made to fit the engine and is now at my welder where he is going to install the mounts and fit the engine in for me. He figures it will be around $600 or so to put the engine/tranny mounts in and weld up some of the cancer for me.

After the engine is in, I will be spraying the inside of the car and engine compartment with "rust bullet", and then spray the metalic candy apple red/burgundy I will have the outside painted.

In 2 weeks It is going down the road to an small mom and pop shop to get the custom mufler/gas line/brake lines put in.

I still haven't figured out where I will put the fuel pump and all that for the FI system. I will rely on the advice from my mechanic I think.

I am changing the console to fit a 2000 Camaro display. This will be a custom dash.

The fuel injection wire harness from "Fuel Injection Specialists" came yesterday. Also the wire harness for the car came from "Painless".

I have $1000 tied up into wire harnesses.

Since I bought the car on ebay in on May 8th this year I have been on a push to get the car so I could drive it before winter.

So far, If I were to do it over again, I would buy an engine that was a direct pull out from a car. I need to find a alternator bracket for the 3.4L and other parts.
 

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Here's a couple of things for you to consider. First, if you have the computer for the engine from a Camaro or Firebird, you'll need a theft deterrant module or fab up a Passkey II system, or the engine will never run, it will start, but not continue to run. Second, I made up an alternator bracket with 1/4" plate steel that bolts to the right head and the two bottom bolt holes on the front right side of the block. It puts the alternator on the passenger side of the engine, about 1/2" forward of the valve cover. I made up two sleeves from solid 1" rod welded to the plate to mount the alternator, but without an auto belt adjuster, you'll need an adjustment arm to tighten the belt. Remember the water pump is turned by the back side of the belt, it turns the opposite direction of the alternator and crankshaft. There's pics of the alternator bracket in my Willit? thread, somewhere. I used a piece of plastic laid out on the front of the engine for the shape and hole location, then laid the original 3.4 bracket on top and traced the outline on the plastic. After the plastic was cut to shape, I laid it out on the sheet steel and drew the outline on it and cut it out. The hard part was figuring the length of the steel rods welded to the sheet steel to space out the alternator to line up the pulleys. HTH.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
anti theft

I have a wireing harness from Fuel injection specialist and a harness for the car from Painless. It has the anti-theft bypassed.

Why did you replace the alternator bracket if you already had one?
did the old one not fit in the new space?
 

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I hope you're right about it being bypassed, but that module or a similar circuit is needed to operate the fuel turn on signal in the run position. It will start, but it or rather mine did not run without that circuit. The reason I had to build an alternator mounting bracket was two-fold, first it was too darn big to fit on the engine with the engine in the hole, secondly, the exhaust would not allow it to be installed, they got in each other's way. When my other computer quits locking up on me, I'll post a pic of how I made the bracket, first with a piece of plastic, which I used to pick up the holes and general layout and then transferred to a piece of flat steel sheet.
 

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Here's a pic of how I made up the alternator bracket. What's not shown here is the 1" solid rod stock I made the spacers from to line up the pulleys. Once measured for correct length, I cut and drilled them on my mini-lathe, then had them welded on the plate with everything installed, to be sure. HTH.
 

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