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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #1
I bought replacement 45 LED lamps, for my GT's 1157 and 1156 tail lamps, from superbrightleds.com recently and I'm very happy with them.

They cost $25 per bulb(ouch!), but they are really sweet. We installed and tested them at the Deutche Classic car show and they are brighter than the oem bulbs and look to be a very well made product. We use similar bulbs at my job that only have 18 LED's and those can be seen for miles. The bulbs are the same shape and size as 1157 + 1156 bulbs and most of the LED's are on the sides(9 on the front and 36 on the sides). They reflect off of the oem lense holder domes very well and to my eye appear to provide twice as much light as the stock bulbs and can be seen extremely well from all directions. I highly recommend them.

Even with 45 LED's, they still don't draw enough power to eliminate the "double flash" of the turn signal indicators on the dash(A common problem when using LED bulbs in our cars’ turn signals). This does not cause any problem with their function on the car, but both of your turn signal indicators on the dash will flash at the same time. To eliminate this, you/I will need to install a small resistor in the wire to create enough resistance to stop the double flash from happening. I have the newer OGTS flasher relay that helps eliminate the double flash with stock bulbs, but they still double flash with these bulbs. Someone told me that there's a mod, in which, you swap wires on the relay to stop the double flash. I will probably just install a small resistor from Radio Shack to fix the problem.

I won't need to do that just yet, however, because I bought the bulbs to put in my "Das Boot" trailer project. I didn't want to have to upgrade the wiring and fuzes for my lighting to handle the extra draw of the lights in the trailer. For the time being, my plan is to return the stock bulbs to my GT and install the LED ones in the trailer. Since the new bulbs draw so little power that they cause the double flash, I'm hoping that running them in tandem with the car's oem ones shouldn't cause any fuze tripping or double flashing. I won't know for sure until the trailer is done. I like them so much that I may get a set for the car also. Then I'll have to add the resistors for when I’m driving without the trailer attached. I just rechecked the company's ad and I see that they offer resistors and/or flasher relays for this issue. I should have bought some and saved myself a trip to Radio Shack.

They can be seen at this link:

45 High Power SMD LED 1156/1157 Tower Bulb Specifications

Here’s a pic of a diagram of them:

 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #3
I bought red for the brake/parking lights and amber for the turn signals. They were pretty adamant at one point about making sure to choose red for red lenses, amber for amber, etc.

The important thing that is so great about these is that they emit light from the sides, which many previous LED concepts did not. Some guys have bought ring-shaped arrays made for trucks and glued them into their lense holders, while others have made or purchased entire round circuit boards of LED's and modded them in place. Most of these types don't show up very well when seen from the sides. The tower-type that I bought puts heavy emphasis on side illumination, which allows your lense holders' reflective domes to come into play......just like the original bulbs were designed to do. Plus, instead of one point source of light, like with an oem incandescent bulb, you have 45 point sources, 36 of which are to the sides. The overall effect is that the entire lense is pretty well filled with homogenous light.

Like I said, we use the 18 LED type of bulb at work in million dollar mail processing machines and they're on all day and night, constantly blinking for one reason or another, getting smacked by fork lifts and constant vibration, and subject to dust, neglect, and abuse. I've never had to replace one yet after 8 years of constantly being on. The ones at work are one step nicer: They're enclosed in plastic and look like a light bulb with LED's inside. I never bothered to see if they would work in our cars.
 

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Opelicious
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Nice! Now I want to know how to use these in the front marker lights that double as turn signals, or do they make one that acts/mimics a dual filament?
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #5
That's what the brake/parking light bulbs have: two terminals or contact points on the bottom of the bulb. Just like a normal two filament bulb. You buy the single terminal type for the turn signals. I forget which number, 1156 or 1157, is the two filament type. Are you using those types of bulbs in your modified turn/marker/parking lights. If not, just look for the type you are using/plan to use on the company's website
 

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Super Moderator
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Nice! Now I want to know how to use these in the front marker lights that double as turn signals, or do they make one that acts/mimics a dual filament?
I believe there have been a few that have installed a different socket for a single filament bulb that was insulated from the side marker base and required a separate ground. Instead of grounding the base they hooked up the hot from the turn signal below. The positive circuit when not energized acts as a ground and the side marker works as it normally would. When the turn signal comes on, both sides of the side marker are energized and the light goes out. What you get is a 'wig wag' effect between the side marker and the turn signal.

Harold
 

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I believe there have been a few that have installed a different socket for a single filament bulb that was insulated from the side marker base and required a separate ground. Instead of grounding the base they hooked up the hot from the turn signal below. The positive circuit when not energized acts as a ground and the side marker works as it normally would. When the turn signal comes on, both sides of the side marker are energized and the light goes out. What you get is a 'wig wag' effect between the side marker and the turn signal.

Harold
GM did that on most of their cars up until the late '90s. My '75 Nova, '87 S10 and '99 S10 did this.

If you go to all that trouble, just remove the single filiment socket, go to NAPA and get a dual element socket, install and be done with it. It isn't too hard as I was able to do it after I install the euro long range lights:eek:
 

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If you go to all that trouble, just remove the single filiment socket, go to NAPA and get a dual element socket, install and be done with it. It isn't too hard as I was able to do it after I install the euro long range lights:eek:
I kinda like the wig wag effect. Evidently the designers of light equipment for law enforcement and emergency warning lights agrees with me. Of course that ONLY works if you're at an angle where both lights can be seen at the same time. :D

Harold
 

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I kinda like the wig wag effect. Evidently the designers of light equipment for law enforcement and emergency warning lights agrees with me. Of course that ONLY works if you're at an angle where both lights can be seen at the same time. :D

Harold
I like the wig wag effect too, but nobody pulled over for me when I had my turn signals on:p
I also eliminated the front round turnsignals and replaced them with the long range headlights so I won't get the wig wag effect. Now only the banana lights blink.
 

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... nobody pulled over for me when I had my turn signals on:p
I also eliminated the front round turnsignals and replaced them with the long range headlights ...
So now you hit 'em with the headlights and watch 'em run off the road? :D It's the quiet ones you always have to watch out for. :yup:

Harold

P.S. Jeff is kind to animals though. :cool:
 

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So now you hit 'em with the headlights and watch 'em run off the road? :D It's the quiet ones you always have to watch out for. :yup:

Harold

P.S. Jeff is kind to animals though. :cool:
Pretty Much. I usually have the long range lights on during the day after my incident with a Kia Sorento(Elderly driver and Florida plates).

I dim them down with the high beams at night.

You hit the nail on the head with the animals. I keep telling my wife the following quote "The more people I meet, the more I like my horse". Fellow Opelers are not included in that statement. Maybe it is because horses and Opelers have a lot in common(We both like to drink large quanitities of liquid and some are even called Drafts). Some of us even have horse characteristics, I love carrots and apples!!! hee hee
 

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Opeler
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would these lights require a resistor to prevent hyper-flashing? I know you mentioned that these could cause the double flash in in the dash...I keep seeing resistor sets sold with these bulbs or in conjunction with them. Just curious...
 

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The GT doesn't get "hyperflash" like the Manta/Ascona/Sportwagon. It gets the double green flash on the dash.

If this was going in a Manta/Ascona/Sportwagon, yes, a resistor is needed to prevent the hyperflash.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #15
I just bought the resistors for the turn signals. I found them(2) on ebay for $3.88 and free shipping. Superbright wants $4.95 for the same resistor. Apparently you install them ACROSS each turn light, not simply spliced into one of the wires as I had assumed. "Across" means it's in parallel, rather than in series, with the LED bulb.

They come as a kit with those squeeze together pinch prong splicers that I hate. I'll probably splice the resistor wires, together with the oem wires, directly into new female connectors at the lense housings. I have to splice in the wires for the trailer lights wire harness anyway, so I'll put the resistors in while I'm at it.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #17
Wow! Awesome demonstration pics dude! I told you those bulbs kick azz!

Can you take some pics from a side angle? I'm curious about how much brighter they would appear from the sides.
 

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Opeler
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Side View

The side views really don't do them justice. The LEDs are in the left side. What's really nice in addition to the brightness is they're instant on/off. This is really noticable with the flashers/turn signals as by the time the filament bulbs get to their full brightness they're already dimming and they never really go completely out until they're turned off.
 

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I bought replacement 45 LED lamps, for my GT's 1157 and 1156 tail lamps, from superbrightleds.com recently and I'm very happy with them.

They cost $25 per bulb(ouch!), but they are really sweet. We installed and tested them at the Deutche Classic car show and they are brighter than the oem bulbs and look to be a very well made product. We use similar bulbs at my job that only have 18 LED's and those can be seen for miles. The bulbs are the same shape and size as 1157 + 1156 bulbs and most of the LED's are on the sides(9 on the front and 36 on the sides). They reflect off of the oem lense holder domes very well and to my eye appear to provide twice as much light as the stock bulbs and can be seen extremely well from all directions. I highly recommend them.

Even with 45 LED's, they still don't draw enough power to eliminate the "double flash" of the turn signal indicators on the dash(A common problem when using LED bulbs in our cars’ turn signals). This does not cause any problem with their function on the car, but both of your turn signal indicators on the dash will flash at the same time. To eliminate this, you/I will need to install a small resistor in the wire to create enough resistance to stop the double flash from happening. I have the newer OGTS flasher relay that helps eliminate the double flash with stock bulbs, but they still double flash with these bulbs. Someone told me that there's a mod, in which, you swap wires on the relay to stop the double flash. I will probably just install a small resistor from Radio Shack to fix the problem.

I won't need to do that just yet, however, because I bought the bulbs to put in my "Das Boot" trailer project. I didn't want to have to upgrade the wiring and fuzes for my lighting to handle the extra draw of the lights in the trailer. For the time being, my plan is to return the stock bulbs to my GT and install the LED ones in the trailer. Since the new bulbs draw so little power that they cause the double flash, I'm hoping that running them in tandem with the car's oem ones shouldn't cause any fuze tripping or double flashing. I won't know for sure until the trailer is done. I like them so much that I may get a set for the car also. Then I'll have to add the resistors for when I’m driving without the trailer attached. I just rechecked the company's ad and I see that they offer resistors and/or flasher relays for this issue. I should have bought some and saved myself a trip to Radio Shack.

They can be seen at this link:

45 High Power SMD LED 1156/1157 Tower Bulb Specifications

Here’s a pic of a diagram of them:


LED lights draw very less power and able to generate same brightness like conventional lights.
 

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Alright, I see what you mean Gordo... I'll get the 45's
 
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