[Bo Mows]

I am ready to start my rebuilt '71 1.9 (someone else rebuilt it). Has been sitting for 9 years. I am not getting any spark to the plugs. Coil trouble? Point set at .018 @ #4. Any way to check to even see if the coil is getting voltage or if the coil is even putting out.

 

[guyopel]

Yes . A 12volts test light on + side of coil , apply 12volts to + side then provide a ground to the - side of coil and every time you touch the ground the center part of coil should fire use care in this ( you need to have the coil wire in place and near a ground ) HTH

 

[baronbors]

I am ready to start my rebuilt '71 1.9 (someone else rebuilt it). Has been sitting for 9 years. I am not getting any spark to the plugs. Coil trouble? Point set at .018 @ #4. Any way to check to even see if the coil is getting voltage or if the coil is even putting out.

Grab ahold of the metal of the coil wire while some one turns over the motor- No don't really do it.
Lay the coil wire next to a grounded peice of metal- crank the engine and you should see spark if working. Don't know what you mean .018 @#4 - the point should be gapped the same for all cylinders if you are talking about the spark gap, then it sounds good

 

[Thom71GT]

Better yet, just take a plug out and keep it connected to the wire and crank the motor. If you don't see a spark at the end of the plug, then you work backward.

Or, just take off the top of the dist cap and crank. No spark between the points and there ya go. Continue to work backward.

 

[nobody]

Reminds me of a long time ago, I got my 69 cheap because of the same problem. It turned out the condensor wasn't grounded properly. Tightened the screw and it fired right up. Just an idea.

 

[Thom71GT]

My brother-in-law got a surburban for $100 because it wouldnt start. $30 and a new starter later, he was off to the races.

That's why I love old cars. You can pretty much figure out what it is without a $100,000 diagnostic machine.

 

[Bo Mows]

ok. use the test light method. I have spark from coil. BUT Only when i connect a + lead from battery and - to battery. I have a tone wire chaser and found the black wire (+ side of coil) properly connected to the starter but the green wire was loose and hanging down next to the fuse box. Can anyone tell me where in the fuse box it goes. It must be the + feed for the coil. I have the fuse boox loose so i can get inside if needed. I can't find it on the print that i have in the FSM.

Bo

 

[bear]

The point gap of .018 is good, plugs gapped at .030. To check for voltage at the coil, if you have a VOM, is simple, turn key on, check for voltage at the + side of the coil where the transparent wire goes to the coil, it should read 6-9 volts. While the engine is cranking check the same terminal on the coil, it should read 9-12 volts. The thing here is two different sources for power to the coil, one during starting, the other in the run position. Gotta have both, one for the engine to start, the other to keep it running. No VOM, no problem, pull a plug, connect it to the plug wire and lay the plug on the engine so it is grounded, crank the motor and there should be a nice fat blue spark between the center of the plug and the ground tang. Of course another way to see if the coil is getting power is to check the tach during starting, if the needle moves it means there is a ground through the coil to the points. HTH.

 

[Bo Mows]

12 volts at starting NO standing volts. Again I think the green wire from coil to fuse box goes somewhere. Could this go to 12 volts when key is on?

Bo

 

[Bo Mows]

I hooked the green wire from the coil to a terminal on the fuse block that is entergized when the key is in the on postion. I have 10 volts on the + of coil and 12 on + side when cranking. No spark from coil or points. I connected the - side of coil to battery and got a spark from coil but will not spark while cranking with or without ground conneted to coil. I get no spark at all when i remove the test light. I am starting to believe i have an open coil. Any suggestions before i buy a coil?

 

[bear]

First off the green wire and the wire to the points both go to the negative side of the coil, the other end of the green wire goes to the Green connector pin #3, then to the tach. You should have a wire coming from the starter solenoid going to the positive side of the coil and a transparent wire going from the same postivie side of the coil going to the fuse panel. The transparent wire is a restrictor wire and will be fairly long stuffed up inside the fuse panel. Try cranking the motor with the distributor cap off and see if the points are opening and closing. When they are closed the coil gets power by the points completing the circuit, and when they open the built up power in the coil dumps to the spark plug causing a spark at the plug. HTH.

 

[nobody]

Ok, again I have seen the exact same responce from a bad ground on the condensor. Have you checked it by chance?

 

[Bo Mows]

yes the condenser is secured to the dizzy. i'm gonna check the wiring tomorrow again. The loose green wire has got to be the problem. the coil is just not firing on it's on.

 

[Bo Mows]

Namba,

I just tone traced it and it's the dark green wire from the + side of the coil thats loose at the fuse block. Any idea where that goes? It has a female connector. So this tells me the coil is not getting a + feed from the key on position. The green wire on the - side is exactly where you said it would be on the green plug.

Bo

 

[bear]

Then I would say the dreaded PO has removed the resistor wire and replaced it with a non-resistor wire. To avoid overheating the coil, you have two options using the wire available to you now. One is to go with a Ford internal resistor coil, but you'll only have 6 volts or less during starting with that. Or get a GM or Chrysler ballast resistor and run that in series with the dark green wire you have now. That wire should go on the fuse panel where there are 4 fuses, second fuse from the studs same side as the connectors. Another option would be to see if anyone on the list has a coil resistor wire they will turn loose. HTH.

 

[Bo Mows]

Very good explaination. Would it be ok just for now to get the motor running to just wire it to the fuse box without a resistor? My concern it to make sure the motor runs. I have a lot to do before i can even drive it so i'm not in no hurry to run it for a long length of time.

Bo

 

[Bo Mows]

Well the wiring problem is solved. I got it firing (with the help of carb cleaner shots into the carb), but it only sounds like it's firing on 2 or 3 cyl's. All plugs are firing. only the occational backfire through carb, but only starting up no backfire while running. I have fresh gas coming from a big jar (tank to be cleaned) but not pumping very much. Could this be from not fast enough RMP's? I initially timed it at #4 with the needle/ball. Watching the rotor closely, i have the plugs correctly.

Bo

 

[bear]

Bo, in response to your last question, you can run a non-resistor wire for running the engine, but I would check the temp of the coil frequently to be sure it doesn't get too hot. That would really make the coil go south in a hurry. HTH.

 

[Bo Mows]

After double checking the timing, i found i was 1 tooth off with the dizzy ALSO i found adjusting the valves, the PO had a solid lifter in the #1 exhaust. Put a hydro back in it and WHAM it fired right up with carb fluid and ran great. trying to get fuel to it now. Timing solved I'll go to General Discussion for up dates.

Thanks to namba209 mostly and other that helped too.

Bo

 

[Old Hippie]

Bo Mows, it's always good to see people getting the excellent info here.