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Discussion Starter #1
hi all, I need some help in the shifter area. The auto shifter installs with 4 screws in a square hole. How is the manual car setup?? What holds the rubber shift boot in place. Any pictures would be helpful. diameter of hole in floor? I thought a metal ring might hold the boot in place.

Thanks in advance
 

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Super Moderator
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hi all, I need some help in the shifter area. The auto shifter installs with 4 screws in a square hole. How is the manual car setup?? What holds the rubber shift boot in place. Any pictures would be helpful. diameter of hole in floor? I thought a metal ring might hold the boot in place.

Thanks in advance
The auto version has a raised sheet metal framework for the auto shifter. This needs to be removed.

The manual shifter boot is round, retained in a rectangular sheet metal frame with a round hole with a raised lip to hold the boot.
 

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So I just need cut out the area that isn't flat and add sheet metal patch with a hole for the shifter boot..like in attached?
The raised automatic adapter is spot welded in place as I recall. I’d simply remove it to expose the original 4-speed hole, rather than cut it out oversized.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks, now I have a new problem hood won't release. when I pull the hood release cable I can feel it pull against the spring but hood won't release. Any suggestions I'm just about ready to cut a hole in the hood
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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I guess your wagon is more or less the same as mine and the Manta parts car I got. Those hood latches appear to be big trouble waiting to happen.

I'm told that one thing to make sure of it that the cable housing isn't moving when you pull on the cable. I noticed that the cable housing on the car I'm stripping has a pot metal end about 2"-3" long near the cable handle and it's damaged and the cable housing is pulling through. I'm also told that people think they've pulled the cable enough and tried to open the hood, but it's not quite fully unlatched and they yank on the hood and this causes the crossmember that holds the latch catch to pull away from the hood and get bent, as it is on my yellow wagon. So, make sure your housing is staying anchored.

I've heard that you can drill a hole somewhere in the lever that disengages the latch and you can then install a loop of cable there that you can pull on if the T-handle won't unlatch the hood.

Once you get the hood open again, I would suggest doing everything you can think of to loosen up that hood latching mechanism and lube the heck out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The good news and bad news... Good news: Because the car was on run up block I had enough room to lay under it and reach my arm up and move the latch. I added a second cable just in case this happens again. Bad news: The car has been sitting with the transmission out for about 6 weeks and the interior has suffered a lot of poop damage from wrens going in and out the hole for the shifter. I found one dead in the car from heat stroke.
 

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The good news and bad news... Good news: Because the car was on run up block I had enough room to lay under it and reach my arm up and move the latch. I added a second cable just in case this happens again. Bad news: The car has been sitting with the transmission out for about 6 weeks and the interior has suffered a lot of poop damage from wrens going in and out the hole for the shifter. I found one dead in the car from heat stroke.
Helmet, don't you have bird boxes for your Wrens? Don't you know you're not supposed to leave pets in the car on hot Days? Good luck my friend, Jarrell
 
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