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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Yeah, I think the light blue is 'glacier' and the medium blue metallic is 'strato'
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Well, I've spent part of every day for the last week chainsawing and hauling brush. I had five trees fall across the driveway last Monday/Tuesday during the 'blizzard'.
So, I haven't got much done, except one evening, I spent the better part of an hour working on the cotter pin on the castle nut so I can remove the upper A frame as part of the front axle refurb.
I have one more day of chainsawing to do to get the rest of the tree trunks sawed up and stacked, and the rest of the brush moved to the burn pile.
So, today, I hope to get at least one side of the front axle disassembled. And, if I need a change of pace, finish removing the dash.
 

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Well, I've spent part of every day for the last week chainsawing and hauling brush. I had five trees fall across the driveway last Monday/Tuesday during the 'blizzard'.
So, I haven't got much done, except one evening, I spent the better part of an hour working on the cotter pin on the castle nut so I can remove the upper A frame as part of the front axle refurb.
I have one more day of chainsawing to do to get the rest of the tree trunks sawed up and stacked, and the rest of the brush moved to the burn pile.
So, today, I hope to get at least one side of the front axle disassembled. And, if I need a change of pace, finish removing the dash.
Maybe that chainsaw is the answer to getting your front suspension apart! Keep an open mind on tool selection!:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
The spring compressor worked as expected, and the ball joint press was just the ticket to press the sway bar out. One side completely disassembled.

Question: Is there anything to be gained by removing the tar/plastic/wheteverItIs factory coating from the floorboards? It looks to be in good shape, and there is a lot of it.
 

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Most people who take it that far down, remove it and put sound deadener, then underlayment, then new carpet. Do a search, on site. There are a number of good ideas and products out there.
 

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Forgive me if you know this. If you do remove the tar on the floor the dry ice and isopropyl method works great. YouTube has lots of vids on how to do it. Easy and effective, way better than a heat gun and scraper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Thanks for that.
I had almost talked myself out of removing it, since it seemed to be in good shape. As I was cleaning up, I noticed that the front passenger floorboard area of the tar seemed to be lifting at the front edge. So, I got a biggish screwdriver out, and made short work of removing about half of the stuff from the passenger side.
The floorboard itself looks good, but it changed my mind, and I'll remove all of it off the floors, so I can POR it all to prevent it ever rusting.
Watching the dry ice/alcohol videos make it seem pretty straightforward to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Today:

1) Found a place not TOO far away (25 miles) where I can get the dry ice. (Does my memory fail me [again] or did it used to be easier to find dry ice?). It's at a welding supply place.(Airgas)
2) Removed the dash and heater ducts
3) Removed all wiring. After reading through Charles' rewiring writeups again; it seems doable, so just decided that if not now, when?

Under the dash, it seems that a PO patched holes in the firewall with cardboard and caulk:
Gas Automotive exterior Machine Auto part Metal


Hmmmm....I guess I'll need to investigate that...

Question:
There is what looks like a patch panel on the firewall where the brake booster comes through. Does anyone know if this is original? From the engine side, it looks like something that someone added:
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Wood Bumper

From the dash side, it looks like it could be original:
Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gas Auto part


That's enough for now.

It was 1979 again today - working on an Opel, listening to Led Zeppelin.
:D:D:D:cool:
 

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Today:

1) Found a place not TOO far away (25 miles) where I can get the dry ice. (Does my memory fail me [again] or did it used to be easier to find dry ice?). It's at a welding supply place.(Airgas)
Our local supermarket (Publix) has it in a freezer next to the ice cube bags.

Dieter
 
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Yeah, My son's local supermarket (Kroger) has it in a freezer near the front of the store. I guess our local stores are not up to the task....
:)
 

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Question:
There is what looks like a patch panel on the firewall where the brake booster comes through. Does anyone know if this is original? From the engine side, it looks like something that someone added:
View attachment 441103
Not original.

It’s a common area of flex and cracking on the Manta chassis.
 
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Baby step today...continued front suspension work. Still disassembling, and cleaning. I did try to blow the pistons out of the calipers, no joy. Will work on it more tomorrow, when I have more time.
 

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If the pistons are not completely in, try to pry them in with a large pipe wrench. If that breaks them lose, it will be easier to blow them out. Oh, and have I mentioned to soak them in rust penetrator over night?

Dieter
 
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Baby step today...continued front suspension work. Still disassembling, and cleaning. I did try to blow the pistons out of the calipers, no joy. Will work on it more tomorrow, when I have more time.
If all else fails you can drill the back of the caliper and drive the pistons out with a straight, flat-ended punch. Afterward, tap the hole and install a tapered plug. I think I used a 3/8" diameter plug. After doing this, I never installed the calipers since I installed a vented rotor setup with '93 Volvo Girling 4 piston calipers instead.
.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Thanks for the ideas. I did put one side into the phosphoric acid pan overnight. I'll see if that loosened anyything up enough to push things in and blow out. That drill-out/plug is a good solution.
 

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Hooking the calipers up to the master cylinder and pushing the brake pedal will provide the most pressure. 1000+PSI. Be safe, cause when it snaps free it may go flying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Hooking the calipers up to the master cylinder and pushing the brake pedal will provide the most pressure. 1000+PSI. Be safe, cause when it snaps free it may go flying.
Everything is already off the car, otherwise this would be the ticket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
drill the back of the caliper and drive the pistons out with a straight, flat-ended punch
I tried the grease gun - no dice. After fooling with it for way too much time, I decided to go with the drillout method. Even with my rudimentary hole tapping skills (hey, I heard that snickering; cut that out, this is a family-friendly forum...), I think it will work real good. Here's the 3/8" threaded hole.
Bicycle part Engineering Rim Nickel Circuit component


Also got one of the A-frames finished yesterday. POR15 is my friend.
Brown Automotive tire Wood Automotive lighting Grey


Also, for anyone who may have forgotten, or if you were wondering: hitting your thumb with the 3-lb sledge while trying to drive out one of the suspension bolts is a sure way to remember all the swear words you ever knew and may have forgotten, and a quick way to decide that you've had enough for one day...:oops:😬
 
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