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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Two years ago my Manta's restoration was delayed. Now, after sitting in pieces at a body shop for so long, the ball is rolling again. Creating a new "to do" list has been fun, but I know I'm missing several items. I have a lot of questions too. Any input, suggestions or ideas are greatly appreciated.

ENGINE:
The following two items for the Manta come from Bob's post about services he had considered offering. Those are the 2.1L engine kit and the big valve head kit. Bob, would you have a parts list for these so I could gather all the parts?

2.1 Liter

Bob mentioned:
>stroked 1.9 crank (no welding, offset-ground) 73.16 mm stroke
>longer rods (billet steel)
>forged 3.75" bore (95.25 mm) pistons, flat-tops
>1.5 mm compression rings for less friction, 3.0 mm oil control rings

A long rod engine is something I have wanted to build since reading about Bob's 2.4 project. The crank mods and block grinding seemed like a little too much work/money and a long rod engine seemed to make sense. Also, about the specs for the offset ground crank, is this something that is easy for a shop to do correctly? (I'm a bit paranoid about making procedures "idiot proof") Is there an instruction sheet for the necessary mods? I want additional performance AND reliability. Plus, I would really like to run cheap pump gas if possible. Once the engine is built, it will hopefully stay in the car for many trouble-free years.

IIRC, The '74 head has been inspected and is crack free. This is to be built up to a big valve head. Bob, you mentioned some sort of template for deshrouding. Would this be a cheap/easy item to duplicate? I would love to have one for the machine shop's use and would gladly pay for it. (more"idiot proofing") Also, is there a specific posting that is the best reference for this procedure?

* Cam - This is something I know very little about. The car has an automatic trans and I do want the cam to be more aggressive than stock but still streetable and not a gas hog. Suggestions? Is a regrind of the cam and reconditioning of the lifters worth the effort or is a new package better?

* Oil dam - People have used a copper plumbing junction (1/2" to 3/4" pipe). Does anything hold it in place? Does it require trimming? pics anyone?

Oil pump - adjustable/diesel oil pump cover- Where are they and how much? Oil pump gears- replace during rebuild as a standard procedure? price? availability?

Aluminum Valve Cover- Does anybody have a nice one for sale? The only in my possesion features some huge screwdriver gouges. Plus, what "filter" material is used in the top of the cover? Seems like some sort of steel wool/pot scruber material has been used sucessfully.

Remote oil filter - Bob taps the timing cover. Is there a write-up of this? If told what to do, would a shop have potentential to overlook something or otherwise screw up the procedure? Is getting getting an adapter that screws onto the present oil filter location a good alternative? Recommendations/part numbers for screw on remote filters?

Oil cooler - recommended part #s or manufacturers.

SS manifold bolts - what are the specs?

* tap the water plugs in block/head

SSD carb - have - The SSD is very similar to Otto's and should work fine. Making an acceptable linkage is a bit of a pain.

Sprint manifold - have - will apply Groit's Garage manifold black

www.ssstuds.com ss manifold flange studs - will order

Trans - Hopefully the old automatic will last. I know most any trans can be sent to companies like B&M and "bullet proofed". Considering the Opel automatic trans usually dies before the engine, might this be a worthwhile investment? Eventually, an automatic with OD would be nice to have. I'm just not sure about the cost/shipping of such an item.

Brakes - The car already has '75 front brakes and will have the 3/4" cylinders added to the rear. At the time I just used new regular brake hoses. Later I read that the '75 calipers need a different fitting. What is this fitting? Are the regular fittings just a disaster waiting to happen? Also, is a proportioning valve recommended for the big brake package?

Alternator - GM one wire will be used. Is there a write-up for making a bracket with the correct offset? Plus, the Opel's lower bolt is a diff diameter than the GM alt uses. I remember reading about a GT rear suspension bushing that can be used as a bushing. Anybody familiar with this?

Otto Start - I have 2.... only one car... but I still have 2.

Electric Windshield washer pump - suggested part #s ?

Guages - I LOVE... I mean LOVE, the white face templates made by Sven. MPH readout would be nice but these look so good, I'll use metric if its the only template available. Sven, what sort of chrome like film did you use in front of the gauges?

* Tach - what brand/type/part# will fit where the clock resides?
* Oil and amp - what guages are recommended? I *think* I remember Bob running a mechanical oil pressure guage off the timing cover. Again, if I were to have a shop do this, are there pit falls? (more"idiot proofing") Plus, somebody mentioned an engine shutoff switch for low oil pressure. Could somebody give information about that?

Dash - will go to "Just Dashes". Has a better alternative arisen the past 2 years?

Steering box - Bob made a GT quick ratio steering conversion using Manta B gears. Woluld this be less involved for a Manta A - Manata B conversion? Is there a write-up for this anywhere? What about parts availability or prices?

ARP bolt set - part #s? Are these really needed on a street engine?

Distributor - what are the reconditioning considerations?

Electonic ignition - Bob had a great set up about a year or two ago that was around $200. I remember it being a blue unit mounted in a white car. The part that occupied the distributor cap's location was only about 1/2 the height of the dist cap. What was this system? Does this thread still exist?

Wiring Harness - I may use Charles EZ harness. However for tidyness and more idiot proofing, I have thought of an expensive Centech "Time Saver" harness. I would hate to get the car finished, shipped from AL - OK and find the wiring sub-par.

Ignition switch - to be rebuilt by OGTS

Suspension - poly bushings. Rubber is required for the sway bar bushing, right? New Ball joints and tie rods. Steering rack was previously cleaned, lubed and fitted with new boots. Should the suspension be painted with POR-15 Chassis Coat or has Magnetpaint Chassis Saver shown itself a viable alternative?

Mirror suggestions - I'm painting the car yellow with black accents. Hopefully it won't look like a bee or Charley Brown. I would like to find some mirrors that are not too big or overly futuristic.

Gas tank - what restoration considerations are there?

Window Rubber - I already have the front and rear rubber. Now I just need to order the side window ruber from Charlse. Also, what is used for the heaterbox to hood gasket?

Gasket match the oil passages for the timing cover - I remember Bob stating these could be quite out of alignment.

Windshield - Need a new one... or old one.. what is available?

Seats - want to get Ralley rear seats and may use Charles's Celica solution for front seats. Manta B seats are mighty temping though.

*Any Tulsa area members have suggestions for a local machine shop? I'm going to have the engine built here and then shipped to the car in Alabama.

Feel free to fire away with any tips/tricks/suggestions.

TIA
 

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Hey Harmon!
Glad to see you're back!

Todd K.
 

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4est said:
The following two items for the Manta come from Bob's post about services he had considered offering. Those are the 2.1L engine kit and the big valve head kit. Bob, would you have a parts list for these so I could gather all the parts?
I'm sorry to day all those potential projects are dead in the water. I won't be doing any Opel work any time soon. I went from having no job to working two jobs, which completely takes up my time from 7:00 am to about 11:00 pm 6 days a week. I don't even have time to work on personal projects anymore.

Funny thing is I'm working in a shop with two chassis dynos (with free dyno access to employees) but have nothing to dyno due to a lack of free time to work on my own stuff. Go figure.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
RallyBob said:
I'm sorry to day all those potential projects are dead in the water. I won't be doing any Opel work any time soon. I went from having no job to working two jobs, which completely takes up my time from 7:00 am to about 11:00 pm 6 days a week. I don't even have time to work on personal projects anymore.

Funny thing is I'm working in a shop with two chassis dynos (with free dyno access to employees) but have nothing to dyno due to a lack of free time to work on my own stuff. Go figure.

Bob
Oh, sorry if you thought that I was wanting to purchase said kits from you. I just need some of your wisdom and parts lists so I can order the kits myself. If you get a free moment (maybe in the bathroom?) and could assemble a couple part lists for me that would be great.
TIA
 

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Bob, really glad to hear you're gainfully employed. But omigod, famine to feast and no time for Opels, sacrelige. Hope you can get time off for the upcoming gatherings though. Be a shame for a major contributor to the Marque as you to miss out on the fun and games that you so well deserve. And if anyone hasn't said it lately, thanx a bunch for the expertise you so willingly pass out, it is appreciated.
 

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Harmon,

I'm down in Ft Smith and recently finished many of the same mods to my 75 Manta you are planning. So, let me know if I can help.

Head... have hardened seats installed at least for the exhausts and bronze valve guides as well.

Piston rings ... you should consider Total Seal gapless rings for the #2 compression ring.

Flywheel.... lighten and balance

Oil dam... I believe the size is 1/2 x 5/8 ... after seeing one that Roger Wilson made out of a rolled up piece of steel, I cut a slit in the copper tube to allow oil to slowly drain back after the engine is shut off.

Gauges... a tach from a Rallye is a direct swap, however the wiring may not be there for it. Not difficult to wire tho. I have a spare tach that may be for sale.

Brakes... a porporting valve is not required on a Manta when using the 3/4 rear cylinders. I've had mine installed since 1978.

Suspension
Springs.... you might consider lower and stiffer springs. I bought mine from http://www.coilsprings.com/

Check out the ride hight 2" drop front and 1.5" drop rear http://opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4506

Sway bar bushings... rubber is the best thing available presently.

Paint... I used the products from Eastwood with great success

Fuel tank... I used the fuel tank seal kit from Eastwood as well, highly recommended

I have many extra parts, such a a SSD with 40 weber, wagon rear springs, etc etc..... Let me know if I can help I have many photos descriptions and Tulsa is less than 2 hours away.

Paul
 

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I wouldnt worry about the Opel TH-180 tranny.. it is bullet proof. They tend to last as long as the motor, if not longer.

Just drain the fluid (All of it including the torque convertor). change the filter and leave it at that.

Its the Manuals that tend to have issues and die regularly.

Charles
 

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GoinManta said:
I wouldnt worry about the Opel TH-180 tranny.. it is bullet proof. They tend to last as long as the motor, if not longer.

Just drain the fluid (All of it including the torque convertor). change the filter and leave it at that.

Its the Manuals that tend to have issues and die regularly.

Charles
what with no fluid in it wow :D sorry charles could not resist it
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
heheh... Silly me, I'm thinkiing of my other old car, a '77 mercedes diesel. They have the trans die before the engines. 2 years out of the Opel loop has left a few holes in my memory. Thx for the info Charles. Also, you mention diagrams for the wiring harnesses you are selling. What would it cost to get a harness with a wiring diagram?

Paul, that is a fantastic thread you have about your car. I will definitely contact you about parts, tips and tricks. The Roland Gentlemans' Club is a good meeting place, right? :D TIA
 

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Where does this go?
 

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Sorry,.... It goes in the oil return hole at the rear of the head. If you pull the valve cover and while standing on the drivers side of the car, look down inside the rear of the head and you will see the oil return hole. This just fits down in the hole. This will cause the oil level in the head to build up a little higher before it drains back thru the oil return hole.
 

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4est said:
Oh, sorry if you thought that I was wanting to purchase said kits from you. I just need some of your wisdom and parts lists so I can order the kits myself. If you get a free moment (maybe in the bathroom?) and could assemble a couple part lists for me that would be great.
TIA
That's the thing...a lot of it (but not all of it) would be custom, not off-the-shelf. So you can't just order it all up from one source I'm afraid. I was going to offer the kits ready to go with all the custom pieces and instructions, etc. But I just have no time for that right now. Especially the 2.1 'kit', as I need to build it and test it before it could be considered ready to go as a saleable item, even if it was just as a spec sheet for someone looking to build it themselves.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
RallyBob said:
That's the thing...a lot of it (but not all of it) would be custom, not off-the-shelf. So you can't just order it all up from one source I'm afraid. I was going to offer the kits ready to go with all the custom pieces and instructions, etc. But I just have no time for that right now. Especially the 2.1 'kit', as I need to build it and test it before it could be considered ready to go as a saleable item, even if it was just as a spec sheet for someone looking to build it themselves.

Bob
Well, thx for the reply and for all your contributions anyway. Looks like its time to assemble project "265 piston 2.0" :cool:
 

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RallyBob said:
Funny thing is I'm working in a shop with two chassis dynos (with free dyno access to employees) but have nothing to dyno due to a lack of free time to work on my own stuff. Go figure.
I can think of a couple cars that could benefit from that service. It would be a lot of work to get them from their various places in New England, but it might prevent a certain person from buying a boat and neglecting the opelitis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Still going - the guy doing the resto has almost more business than he can do. So, it's going to be several more months.
 
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