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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Getting this ol' 73 gt to start

So, my dad and I are trying to get this dang old car to start. We just replaced the condencer, since the old one was crap, and got it to crank over.....and over and over. Just no start. I have a few questions for you guys.
1. On this Solex carb there are two ports I guess for an "A.I.R." system which were used in 68-69. I have the 1973 do I need to plug these up?
2. What is the order of the pistons. Like is #1 in the back or the front of the engines. I guess just which plug wires go to which plugs? And the firing system is 1-4-3-2 right?
3. Another carb question, there are three places for hoses on the back side of the carb, where do they go to if they do go some where?
4. The main problem is that the spark plugs are not wet after trying to start it, so there is no gas going to the engine. Do you have any suggestions?

Thanks for all the help. :D
 

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Firing Order

Firing order is 1-3-4-2

The #1 piston is at the front of the engine.

The rotor will turn clockwise.

Pull the cap and locate the small notch on the edge of the distributor. It should be towards the bottom kinda pointed to you as you stand on the drivers side.

The notch is for #1 and where the #1 plug wire should be closely lining up. Then the rest of the plug wires should match the firing order in a clockwise direction.

Hope this helps!
 

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orange73gt87 said:
1. On this Solex carb there are two ports I guess for an "A.I.R." system which were used in 68-69. I have the 1973 do I need to plug these up?
There shouldn't be an A.I.R. system on this carb. What "ports" are you referring to? Can you show us a photo?
orange73gt87 said:
2. What is the order of the pistons. Like is #1 in the back or the front of the engines. I guess just which plug wires go to which plugs? And the firing system is 1-4-3-2 right?
#1 is the front cylinder. When the timing marks are aligned (the ball in the flywheel at the pointer in the rear block opening, behind the exhaust manifold), and the valves are both closed on #1 cylinder, the distributor rotor "notch" should be pointing at the groove in the distributor housing. And the firing order is 1-3-4-2 NOT 1-4-3-2. The distributor rotates clockwise.
orange73gt87 said:
3. Another carb question, there are three places for hoses on the back side of the carb, where do they go to if they do go some where?
A photo would help. There should only be two connections to the back of the carb. Here's a photo to help out:
http://www.opelgt.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=949
orange73gt87 said:
4. The main problem is that the spark plugs are not wet after trying to start it, so there is no gas going to the engine. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks for all the help.
First, do you have spark? If so, are the distributor wires connected correctly? If you have a timing light, connect it and point it at the timing marks while you crank it. You should see the marks line up, and at least the light should flash. If not, are you SURE you have spark?

Next, try dribbling a LITTLE bit of gas down the carb throat while you crank. A SMALL amount is enough; more will flood the engine, or even hydraulically lock it up. and don't lean over the carb while you do that, as eyebrows come in handy in later life :)

HTH and good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
kwilford said:
There shouldn't be an A.I.R. system on this carb. What "ports" are you referring to? Can you show us a photo?
http://edjacotsart.topcities.com/CarbAir.html

A photo would help. There should only be two connections to the back of the carb. Here's a photo to help out:
http://www.opelgt.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=949
http://edjacotsart.topcities.com/Carbports.html

Thanks for all of the other tips and help. Yes there is a spark, I'm going to check the compression today, but there seem s to be compression. We tried the gas in the carb. Thanks again
 

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Sorry, but I haven't had a Solex for twenty years. But here is a photo from the Factory Service Manual that shows the ports on the outboard side, and I have also posted your other photos with some annotations. By the way, do you have a FSM? You REALLY need a good manual, and FSM's show up on eBay regularly. Also, do you know that the idle adjustment is NOT by the screw on the throttle linkage? It is adjusted by the Air Idle Speed Screw. If you have messed with the linkage screw, you MUST read and follow the FSM procedures for adjusting the Solex mixture, idle speed and throttle set screw
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I guess I will update you guys. I finished setting the timming, ran all the lines on the carb, did just about everthing I could think of. It started up about two or three times but didn't idle worth crap. It just died. You couldn't even rev up the engine with the gas. So after some more adjustments and head scratching it won't even try to start. I'm back to where I was yesterday, just cranking. MAN THAT IS SO STUPID. If you have any ideas shoot um at me. Thanks a lot.
 

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As it sounds like this car has been sitting a while, how fresh is the gasoline? Try disconnecting the fuel line from the carb and see what kind of pressure the fuel pump is giving you while cranking. If it will start but not keep running the carb may have to be rebuilt. You said it starts but then dies, and reving it up doesn't help. Does it run for a few seconds after releasing the key from the start position? If the car dies immediately after releasing the key, the problem may be in the ignition switch. Just a few more ideas to look at. Good luck.
 

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Also check for cracks in the gasket, carb foot, etc. If you had it running but ruffly ( :) ), it sounds like a vac leak. A old gasket or vac hose will cause that kind of problem, even a missed vac-port. Never forget the dumb stuff. I've spent hours on that kind of problem (w/ other toys), only to find a hose split or other idiotic problem I've overlooked! :rolleyes:
 

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Check the clear wire coming from the positive side of the distributor and going to the fuse box. This is a resistor wire that provide power to the coil when not cranking. This clear wire needs to be connected to switched 12V in order for the ignition coil to get power when NOT cranking. The ignition coil also has a red/black wire going to the starter so the coil gets the full 12V when cranking, and then power is provided by the clear resistor wire.

On half of the GT's that I have owned, the clear wire was bunt/missing or completely destroyed. The symptoms of this are that the car will want to start while cranking, but then dies immediately.

Quick and dirty solution just to see if the car will stay running is to run a wire from the + side of the ignition coil to the + side of the battery. You really should wire the + side of the coil to a switched 12v so that the coil will not always have power (i.e. when sitting parked) as that will burn up the coil, but it works just to get the car running.

-Nathan Acree
Albuquerque New Mexico
 

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about to give up

:confused: i need help. i purchased my '72 GT about a year ago as a restoration project. that day i jump started it and drove it home. on the way it was acting like it was running out of fuel (i had just filled the tank) but after a quick inspection i found a fuel line that had been pinched shut. i replaced the line and the car cranked up just fine.

now it won't start at all. it has been parked since then. the only thing ive done to it was to put the spark plug wires back inorder after my brother "worked on it." and drain/refill the gas tank and oil.

the starter turns the engine. it seems to be getting spark and fuel. it just won't start. it sounds like it is out of fuel.

might i have the firing order wrong? i'l lost.
any ideas would be appreciated.
 

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Michah, just go back to basics, firing order is: 1, 3, 4, 2. Crack the fuel line at the carb and see if fuel is getting to the carb, double check the points setting, and firing order. Line up the pointer/ball on the flywheel, in the little hole behind the exhaust manifold. The rotor should be pointing at #1 or #4 wire in the distributor cap. And go from there. HTH.
 

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hi, nathan,

i'm a few miles south of you in Socorro and i'm having trouble finding time to work on my 72GT. no mechanic here will even look at it. do you know any mechanic's in Albuquerque who you'd trust with your opel?

micah m taylor
 

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Micah,

Sorry, I don't know of any mechanics in Socorro or in Alb. that I would trust with an Opel.

Bottom line is that if you are going to have an Opel, you are going to have to find the time to work on it (nature of the beast, I'm afraid).

I think Ron was pointing you in the right direction, but the way I get the ignition timed properly is to take off the valve cover and watch the lifters. Watch the intake lifter for cyl #1 while cranking the motor- shortly after it moves all the way it's bore #1 will be at TDC on the compression stroke. At that point look at the rotor on the distributor and connect the wire on the closest terminal on the distributor cap to spark plug #1 and the next terminal (the rotor turns clockwise I believe but don't take my word, watch it as someone is cranking) to #3 and the next to #4 and the next to #2.

Have somebody crank the engine while you turn the distributor a bit and the engine should try to fire, you can turn the distributor at that point and get it where it needs to be for the car to run.

Other than that, check basic things like points are opening and closing and that you have +12V to the coil while cranking and with the key in RUN. If you have the original Solex carb, it may never run. You need to get a Weber if you are serious about the car.


-Nathan
Albuquerque New Mexico
 

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On the distributor there is also a small line to identify #1 position. The line is on the top edge just under the cap.
 
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