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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Our own Travis from this forum finally got his GT out to an autocross. I didn't get to hang around to see him run, but I thought a photo was appropriate. That, and I wanted to shame him into responding to the inevitable 'how did it do?' questions...:p
 

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Gee, thanks Bob.

The car did pretty well. Seing as it was my first event in this car, or any GT for that matter I was pleased. I had been concentrating on getting the car race worthy and never found time to get it inspected and had literally only driven it ~5 miles with the new motor and rear suspension before towing it down to the event. I was basicly shaking down the motor and transmission while on course.

In general all went well. The car didn't break, which was my biggest fear. It ran and drove well. Much better than I was expecting.

So how did I do? Let me first say that I've only driven one or two events per year for the last few years and before that I had almost exclusively driven front drive cars. I ended up 97 out of 132 on PAX. It's certainly not great, but not last place either. I hope to move up into the top third over the next few events...

-Travis
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sorry, had to do it!:)

Besides, what makes a better story? Anyone with money can buy a professionally built (new) car, and go and try to win races. But it makes a better human interest story to hear of the trials and tribulations that go with a limited-budget, home built project. The car will progress, as will the driver!

This way, you can document the changes and post them here. New parts, new settings and adjustments, etc. I suspect that just installing the limited slip, the 4.88 final drive, and getting the engine fully broken in and jetted will help a ton. Don't forget the roller rockers! And of course you will personally come to grips with the car as time goes on. Should be a terror next season, I think this is the season to experiment, as you've got nothing to lose.
 

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Looks good, Travis! Glad to see you out. What tires are you running?

AutoXing is a funny sport. I've been at it several years and still don't "get it". I spend more time navigating then driving, if you know what I mean. Hopefully I'll be trying my new engine out at it's first event this coming Sunday.

Bob's right about the newer cars. Don't ever take someone up on an offer to drive theirs at an event. A drove a friend's new Miata a few years back. It ruined my love for the British cars forever. Sold my full race Spitfire shotly after that.
Had an offer to drive a M3 and a S2000 last year. Can't take the chance.....turned them both down..........
Bestus,
James
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
N61WP said:
Looks good, Travis! Glad to see you out. What tires are you running?
I loaned Travis my very old Hoosier slicks. They're 20 x 9.5 x 13 slicks in the old R35 compound on 3-piece 13 x 7 alloys wheels, basically knock-offs of Keizers. Even though they're 10 years old, they cleaned up well and I treated them with Track Claw tire treatment, which softened them appreciably.
 

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Travis,
E-Prepared has a heck of a Pax index. Just be patient.... The key to improvement is Seat Time, Seat Time, Seat Time...

And, of course, new tires...

Don't forget... the faster (speeds) you go, the farther you MUST look ahead. This is the most difficult thing for most people to do. Its the first thing they will lhammer into you at a driving school (such as Evolution) and its also the second thing and the third ... and the last.

Good Luck and Keep us Posted.


James or anybody else...
Looking ahead AT LEAST two gates is the key to not getting lost on course. The other key to Auto Cross is learning HOW to "Walk the Course". After you've walked the course with your friends once or twice, try walking it by yourself a couple more times. The last time, try to concentrate as if you are actually driving and take mental pictures of every corner entry and every corner exit.

Next, go back to you car, ALONE, and set in the seat. Close your eyes and drive the course in your mind, at speed, using the mental pictures you captured. This, and looking 2 or 3 gates ahead, should help.

Good Luck
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Paul said:
And, of course, new tires...
I agree here. But Travis was going to run 205/60-13 Kumhos on 5.5" wheels if I hadn't brought the slicks! I figure Travis can burn them off this year learning to drive the car. And it gives him time to accumulate his own wheels and tires. As I recall, it cost me $1140 for the set of wheels and tires ten years ago, so I imagine Travis is not ready to throw out $1400 or so in today's dollars just to learn the nuances of driving on bias-ply slicks.

Of course, with the GT-4 engine nearing completion, I'm gonna want those wheels back at some point for the GT-4 Manta!

Bob
 

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RallyBob said:

Of course, with the GT-4 engine nearing completion, I'm gonna want those wheels back at some point for the GT-4 Manta!
You wanted those back? I thought it was a gift for being such a nice guy :p

Unfortunately, $1140 doesn't cover it anymore. The Keizers are up to $215 and the Hoosiers are $164 for a total of $1516 plus shipping and balancing. Ouch! Although it isn't as much about money as justification. Until I've worn through the NEW Kumhos that I have it's difficult to justify replacing them, although my wife thought the car looked great with the wheels and slicks. Yes, I'm cheap, I am an Opeler after all:)

-Travis
 

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Travis- congrats on 97th place. The fact that your racing is the part I envy.

I know it's expensive to race...I wish we could build a GT-4 Opel team up in the NW. I'd love to build a GT-4 car...let alone see one race.

TGSI- how far up north do you travel to race your GT? You just keep it socal for the most part? Anyone else race a GT in the NW area (or visit to race?)

~kyle
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hmmm, I have a set of 13 x 5.5" aluminum wheels with a 2.75" backspace. At least you could get the track width filled out a bit with those and the Kumhos. I have 3 sets of 13 x 6's for the ITB car, so you're welcome to use those wheels, I don't need them unless I decide to set aside a dedicated set for rains.
 

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RallyBob said:

I suspect that just installing the limited slip, the 4.88 final drive, and getting the engine fully broken in and jetted will help a ton.
Yes, but I suspect that getting some more camber as well as caster in the front and a bit more front sway bar will help as much, if not more. We'll see...

-Travis
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Best to drive it first after intalling the LSD before changing the suspension. A limited slip will always induce a bit more understeer into the chassis. From there you can try various suspension settings. I used to run road courses in my Ascona with two front sway bars (7/8") each and a 3/4" rear bar. For autocross I'd remove the second front bar to help with turn-in and rotation. You may find the car does not need much front bar but a bit more negative camber once the limited slip is in place.

Bob
 

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RallyBob said:
Hmmm, I have a set of 13 x 5.5" aluminum wheels with a 2.75" backspace. At least you could get the track width filled out a bit with those and the Kumhos. I have 3 sets of 13 x 6's for the ITB car, so you're welcome to use those wheels, I don't need them unless I decide to set aside a dedicated set for rains.
It's likely not worth spending another $40 or $50 to have the tires moved to the other rims and balanced for minimal improvement....

I had considered getting a set of 13x7 13lb Diamond Racing wheels($69) and some slicks to help keep the cost down, but I know that it wouldn't be long before I was wishing for the ~7lb Keizers:(

-Travis
 

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About the wheels... Rotating mass is rotating mass... no matter if it is at the flywheel or wheels. OK, it has a rear-end reduction, but you also have to stop that rotating mass (brakes). So, do yourself a favor and buy the Kiesers. I used to be a dealer... and I might still be so I'll call them tomorrow and I'll let you know.

Also, if it is allowed, go buy the softest slicks you can buy... I suggest 230 compound Goodyears. If you are running on 10 year old slicks, the "skinny winney" Khumo's are probably even better. Another thing to remember, most slicks including Goodyear 430 compound take about 3 laps on a road race course to "come in"... get enough temperature in them to really work. "DOT race radials" like the Hoosiers or Kumos "come in" much quicker than slicks. So, for autocross, you might get better times with "DOT race radials"... or go to tire warmers for the slicks. (I say "DOT race radials" because these are really race tires that have the tread stenseled on and have DOT approval... barely.)

There was another question about where I race, and is it social. I race in the South West and don't normally make it above Sears Point. Social??? Well, it depends. At nationals NO... NO... NO. I'm there to win. The competition is too tough to be very social. Any time between practice, qualifying, and the race is spent on the car. At regionals, when I'm in the car, it's still NO... cause I'm there to win too. BUT, most of the rest of the race day, it's pretty social.
 

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Yes, I understand the issues with rotating mass. Even at almost 1/7th the rotational speed of the motor 24 pounds is going to be significant.

Did you get a chance to call Keizer today Bob(other)? I'm not sure that I'm in the market at the moment, but the cheaper the source, the sooner I will be...

-Travis
 

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Yea... but to reinstate my "dealership", I have to buy two or more sets of wheels. I think they just want to be sure I'm not buying them for myself. (There right... we become a dealer for everything we want to run). So, this may be another opportunity for a group buy. The price might get down to around $170 each... but I also use the "steel inserts" (inserts where the lug nuts tighten down aginst the aluminum wheel)... these are $20 per wheel, so that gets the price back up to $190 each if you go with these. I'll give this a couple of weeks to see what the interest is. Email me: [email protected]
 
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