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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok....I know this is a question asked all the time, and I am pretty sure I have read all the material on this subject (even Waynes) but maybe I am missing something simple.

I have checked the microswitches, fuses, wires in, wires out , relay,changed headlight wires, fuses and checked dash switch wires to fuse box. All has juice according to the ohms meter.

I am trying to figure out the process here. Are the mircroswitches suppose to touch that little knob? and is that what opens and closes them. Are they suppose to be open or closed (the micros that is) to turn on the lights? With the lighting mechanisms torn apart so I can see the micros, the micros are open, is this right? Also I went by Waynes hook up and it is different from the color diagram?

I know this is alot of stupidity on my part about how these things operate, but surely this is not that complicated. I mean its only a few wires....Right?
 

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crazy opeler
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While it is "cool" the way the lights come on with the microswitches I have always converted my cars to just have a switch on the dash that turns the light on. I have tried to clean those little switches out but never had them last very long.
 

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4ZUA787
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stupid switches

i got my gt and the first thing i said was lets do the heaedlights i saw those little switches and was like snip snipp unscrew. i didnt even give them a chance i just put a switch under the dash to turn them on and off a lot simpler i think.
 

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Yep... good old toggle switches, cheap and many many times less problematic. I have my running lights and my headlights on toggle switches. Eventually ill run the running lights to the coil so they will come on when the key is on.. but for now i have no problems so ill probably leave as is.

BTW: you dont have to be the hulk just make sure everythings rust free and oiled and they roll over fairly easily.. though it'd be nice to have a motorized version for those like me who are lazy
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I would be happy to have any headlights. How would I go about running a new wire for a seperate dash hook-up??
 

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Jennifer

send me a private e-mail and ill send you my phone #....i can talk you through how to trouble shoot the headlights... its not that bad.... alll you need is a miltimeter or a 12 volt test light


Joe Van Wagnen
 

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GT Headlights

Personally, I have never had a problem with the microswitches. It has always been the hundred OTHER things!

Have you got the correct wiring diagram? They are available at:

http://clubs.hemmings.com/frameset.cfm?club=oana (go to "Tech Info")

And there are a couple of "trouble shooting" threads on this site:

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=891

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=227

If you STILL want to bypass the microswitches, go to:

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/classicopels/files/ Technical Information/Headlights/

and look at the four .gif files, which are Gordan's solution to operating the headlights with the running lamp switch. His written description is at:

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group...eadlights/GT light wire fix and diagrams.html

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Dimmer switch

Ok...I have narrowed it down to the dimmer switch. Test light determined that. Does this cause headlights to not come on and what do I do to fix it? Opel GT source shows a main relay but not the dimmer.

I don't think it is the microswitches either. I tested them the way Wayne's article said to, and they were fine.


Thanks Everyone,

Jennifer
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Microswitch tripping

Wait, HOLD everything......I have had a major break through. My Lights CAME ON, YIPPIEEEEEEEEEEEE, but only because I put a pen by the microswitch to make it close. Now will this do it by itself when I reassemble headlight???? I'm so excited that they are working, but I don't know what trips that microswitch (drivers side black, yellow/black wires). I don't won't to put the headlight back together(for the umteenth time) unless I know it will close by itself.


Thanks for everyones help. Ya'll complete me!

Jennifer
 

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Headlight Microswitches

Lets see if I remember how these work, or can figure out the factory schematic....

The driver side gear mechanism has two microswitches. I have posted a picture below. One is the "Relay" switch, which turns on the lights, which I will get back to.

The other is the "Indicator" switch, which just tells if the headlights are "in-between" open and closed (the white light in the dash). This microswitch has two wires. An 18 gauge (quite light) red/black wire , and an 18 gauge brown/black wire. There is also an idicator microswitch on the passenger side mechanism. One or the other has to be tripped (i.e. the mechanism latched either up or down), or the white dash light will come on. You should see this if you only partially open the buckets while the ignition is turned on.

The drivers side mechanism's left microswitch (outboard) is the "Relay" switch, & has a 12 gauge (quite heavy) yellow/black (yellow insulation with black stripe) wire to the "C" (Common) terminal, and a 12 gauge black wire to the "NO" (Normally Open) terminal. The black wire gets power directly from the fuse block. When the headlights are open, the relay microswitch is closed (by being pushed by the post that moves when the mechanisms latch), and the yellow/black wire delivers power to the headlamp relay, on to terminal 85. This energizes the relay, closes an internal set of contacts, and closes the circuit from the 30/51 terminal (which has a 12 gauge red wire that provides the main feed from the fuse block) across the relay to the four "87" terminals. These, in turn, provide power to the headlights, running lights and dash lights. In simple terms, this is the ONLY microswitch that actually turns on the headlights.

But the problem is probably with the latching mechanism. So, see my next post for more....
 

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Headlight Latch

If the three small bolts that attach the buckets (via the flexible straps) aren't all there, or are loose, the latching arm may not engage, and in turn the relay microswitch won't be closed. Here's a picture of the arm in place, but not quite up to the "latch" position.
 

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Headlight Latch

For clarity, here's another view of the arm that latches. The round post MUST engage the latch in the gear mechanism for the bucket to stay in position (either open or closed), as well as to trip the microswitches.

Sometimes, it's as simple as replacing the bolts, or even just tightening them. Sometimes, a bolt or two gets broken off inside the rotating part (which is why I have these as spares!), and it is a ROYAL PAIN to drill them out. But it must be done.

Other times, the gear mechansim itself gets worn, and they just don't work properly. Did both or your buckets latch at both the open and closed positions?

HTH and tell us how you make out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Lights are on

I have finally got the lights on, and now they just stay on. The come on when I start the car, not when I flip the switch. It must have to do with the microswitch. Either it is sticking or the headlights when rotating arent doing there job.

Have to play with it some more Monday. Fried something in the steering wheel and burnt out the fusable link to the starter/sylenoid. My My My
 
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