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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, being an electronics guy I should be able to figure this out, but I admit, I am stumped.
I was having a problem with dead battery a lot. I figured there was something shorted to ground. I removed the positive battery terminal and there is a slight current draw according to my cheapo meter. Well of course my CD player memory will cause that. So I disconnect it, still have a draw. Disconnect the Jacobs energy pack which also has a memory I think, still have a draw. My meter says. .01 amps. So I pull all the fuses. Now there is absolutely nothing that should draw current while key is off. When I connect the meter I get a little "sparky" and it reads between ".01-.00". WTF! Little "sparky" tells me something is drawing current. But what?
Any advise out there?
Thanks,
 

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Ok if the wiring is stock, you are down to the cable to the starter, the starter itself and the hot wire running into the car. Since all of them connect at the starter, undo the connection and put them back one at a time and you should find the current draw. Or you could ohm to ground and the lowest reading is your problem.

I just reread your post and you need to be more specific about how you are reading this. Most cheapo meters don't have dc amp function so I am curious. What is the meter set on and how is it hooked up.
 

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If you have a stock wiring harness, the juice flows from the battery to the fuse panel, through the ammeter, back to the fuse panel and from there throughout the various connectors. There are at least a dozen wires that are hot right off the battery, following that path and only three of these are fused, not counting the possibility of the voltage regulator shorting to ground too. If you don't have one of JJ Wheatley's schematics you should get one they are a great trouble shooting tool.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
DaveJ said:
Have you pulled all the relays too?
No, but the thought crossed my mind, if that's worth something.:D
 

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If you pulled the fuses, that takes out the dome light, the key in the ignition buzzer, the clock and the hazard light switch. Those that are left hot from the battery are: Ignition switch, parking lights, heated rear window relay, radio, parking light switch, ammeter, and the headlight relay. HTH.

Ron
 

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namba209 said:
If you pulled the fuses, that takes out the dome light, the key in the ignition buzzer, the clock and the hazard light switch. Those that are left hot from the battery are: Ignition switch, parking lights, heated rear window relay, radio, parking light switch, headlight relay, ammeter, and the headlight relay. HTH.

Ron
Was going to suggest disconnecting main feed line (red/white on a GT) from the starter solenoid and then reconnecting loads one at a time, but that's already been done.

IF you should STILL have a drain with this main lead disconnected but with the battery cable connected to the solenoid, you probably have some "carbon tracking" inside the solenoid providing a resistance path to ground through the starter coils. NOT AS RARE as you might think! :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
nobody said:

I just reread your post and you need to be more specific about how you are reading this. Most cheapo meters don't have dc amp function so I am curious. What is the meter set on and how is it hooked up.
My meter does have DCA. I measured across the disconnected positive battery terminal and the positive battery lead with the neg. connected to the grounding strap.
 

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Then if what Otto says is correct, and you've isolated everything else and still have the problem, the next logical step would be to pull the starter solenoid and clean the inside and outside of the plastic end cap where the studs come out and the wires are attached. Simple :D And just for grins and giggles, how about you let the list know what really stops the current drain. I know I've lost more than a few strands of hair over similar problems at one time or another, and a solution is good to put in the memory banks.

Ron
 

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namba209 said:
Then if what Otto says is correct, and you've isolated everything else and still have the problem, the next logical step would be to pull the starter solenoid and clean the inside and outside of the plastic end cap where the studs come out and the wires are attached. Simple :D And just for grins and giggles, how about you let the list know what really stops the current drain. I know I've lost more than a few strands of hair over similar problems at one time or another, and a solution is good to put in the memory banks.

Ron
You DID disconnect the two solenoid slide-on spade lug leads (ignition "start" switch (right) and coil resistance wire bypass (left)), didn't you?
:confused:
 
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