[opeljohn]

Having reconditioned a few columns over the years, I still think taking yours out of the car would be

helpful. From the looks of the photos you have an older ignition switch, now would be a good time to replace it. With the shaft out it is easier to thread the wiring thru the shaft cover. Also with the shaft out you can better tell if the shaft lock retracts when the key is turned. I would say most of your issues come from someone monkeying with it before. The reason I take them completely apart is to make sure everything is as it should be.

 

[Lil Red GT]

Just my .02 on this. If you are going to go this deep into the steering Column, I would first pull the steering wheel and hub. Then disconnect the column at the lower knuckle. When out of the car, pull the splined shaft out. This makes it much easier to remove outer cover and access internals.

See how easy it is to talk me into stuff. Pulled the column out tonight. I'm going to replace the ignition switch and do a more thorough cleaning and refurb.

 

[opeljohn]

Some advice on the switch change out. I do not remove both the key cylinder and ignition switch at same time. It works better for me to remove the shaft and key cylinder before removing outer cover. Then reinstall key cylinder before removing ignition switch, this makes it easier to match up new switch. With the shaft out this also allows you to confirm the shaft lock retracts when you turn key. If all is okay pull key cylinder again before replacing outer cover, should make it easier. Then install shaft and cylinder. Check shaft lock again by spinning shaft.

 

[Lil Red GT]

Some advice on the switch change out. I do not remove both the key cylinder and ignition switch at same time. It works better for me to remove the shaft and key cylinder before removing outer cover. Then reinstall key cylinder before removing ignition switch, this makes it easier to match up new switch. With the shaft out this also allows you to confirm the shaft lock retracts when you turn key. If all is okay pull key cylinder again before replacing outer cover, should make it easier. Then install shaft and cylinder. Check shaft lock again by spinning shaft.

Yes, I figured that out the hard way. Now it's one end or the other. And now I can remove the replace the outer cover in seconds. When removing I turn the key to On and push the sleeve upwards to clear the left side. Once clear, then slide it back down as far as it will go, turn the key to lock, remove the key and slide the right hand side past the lock cylinder.

 

[Lil Red GT]

BTW, where did you source the new black and white connectors?

 

[opeljohn]

BTW, where did you source the new black and white connectors?

They are not new, probably just the best I had in my collection at that time. I usually try to get a core in return for my reconditioned columns, some are rebuildable, some not so much. I hang onto parts that might be needed for another rebuild. I have seen some messed up columns. More than one with the key cylinder drilled out to try and start car.

 

[Lil Red GT]

It's getting pretty barren in there.

 

[Lil Red GT]

This is why I pulled the IP. Two summers ago Maria had to pull the Opel over to the side of the road, and she pushed the hazard switch. It immediately blew the fuse; in fact melted aluminum dripped down onto the top of her foot.
I replaced the fuse but naturally the turn signals and flashers didn't work. She's been driving it like that for over a year. Next to the melted connector is a NOS connector from Gil.
The rest of the IP wiring is in surprisingly good shape. I was wondering how the ammeter studs would look like, but they're in good shape too.