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It would make sense if the spring helped push the lever forward. I find that to be a little more strenuous than pulling the lever.
If your rotators are very clean and dry lubricated (dry graphite or similar) same with the balance of the operating items AND the cable is kept with no hard bends, the headlights can be opened and closed with ONE finger.
During this video you will see me open and close the headlights with just one finger. Although my finger does initially slip off because of the Armor-All on the lever. The spring is not necessary. If the retainers are working properly, you can beat your buckets to death with a hammer and they will not move. Clean and USE DRY LUBRICATION ONLY. Solvents and wet lubrications trap dirt and eventually make things worse not better.
 

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Nice video. Looks like you have everything very well sorted. Two questions. What is that little white indicator light under the driverside vent? (My 70 GT did not have that) Also, is your ammeter gauge working? Mine would usually register on the positive side when charging-even at idle. Is this the car you hope to sell on BAT?
The white light below the dash vent is showing the rear window defrost is on if the bulb is on. The rear defrost grid was replaced with a new one. The battery is new and was fully charged, so the alternator relay was not charging the battery. I actually have to start and re-start the car several times before it calls for a charge again. Yes this is the car that BAT will be selling, not sure how soon they will get it live, but my guess is in 2-3 weeks.
 

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The white light below the dash vent is showing the rear window defrost is on if the bulb is on. The rear defrost grid was replaced with a new one. The battery is new and was fully charged, so the alternator relay was not charging the battery. I actually have to start and re-start the car several times before it calls for a charge again. Yes this is the car that BAT will be selling, not sure how soon they will get it live, but my guess is in 2-3 weeks.
Also Just FYI, the rear heated window, gets is power from the alternator. Unless the car is running the rear defrost will NOT engage. This prevents the window heater from making a large draw on the battery. There is an extra wire on the pig tail that goes from the regulator to the alternator. That extra wire is the defrost power source.
 
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