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473 Posts
Probably, and frustrating considering there's a strong eyelet welded to the middle of the front cross member they could have used.upon further inspection, it would seem that careless towing rigging has distorted the "skid plate" (for lack of a better term) and lower valance. kinda' strange, what do you guys think?
I don't mind bribing people, but nobody is getting any of my beer.:beerchug:Is this on a Manta or something? Doesn't look like a GT thats for sure. Anyway, I know how I would fix it, but then I have access to all the necessary tools. As dallasmanta pointed out though, a channel lock and hammer minimum (vice grips are outstanding for bending and straightening tin) I would think by looking at it it's not structural (critically speaking) so straightening it as best you can through brute force, get it where it needs to be, soak it with etch primer and paint it and it will be fine. It is underneath and out of sight right?
But if your intention is restoration and your looking for showroom quality, and you dont know how nor have the tools to do it yourself, then your gonna need to go the extra mile and spend $$$ to have someone do it for you OR spend gobs more $$$ getting the tools you'll need and pay someone to show you or find someone you know who can show you how and bribe them with beer and have them teach you how to fix it. :yup:
Just looking at it I would guess I could make that fix in an afternoon, so long as I leave the beer drinking for afterwards![]()
NEVER, NEVER EVER, NEVER EVER EVER are you "done". The minute your "done" you start to get bored with it and it gets sold so you can find another project to work on.Eventually you run out of challenges and you're all done.
1.5S head. Small chamber, and smaller valves than a 1.9.Aside from a considerable amount of Pacific NW condensation corrosion in the cylinder bores, it was fairly obvious that my '73 Manta was parked ages ago suffering from a cracked head and a blown gasket. Came by this one to base my hot street motor build on. Appears to have "early" style rocker studs resembling press in type. Anyone familiar with this '68 quench head?
I think I've got the valves covered following the 2.0 w/ 1.5 head recipe. I'm puzzling over the rocker studs??1.5S head. Small chamber, and smaller valves than a 1.9.
.... Appears to have "early" style rocker studs resembling press in type.
Why not try to pull the studs out first?... I'm puzzling over the rocker studs??
All CIH rocker studs are threaded in.I think I've got the valves covered following the 2.0 w/ 1.5 head recipe. I'm puzzling over the rocker studs??
Cautioned my machinist of the rarity and expense of the cyl head casting we are working with. The question now becomes whether or not any of y'all ever experienced any problems breaching the water jacket while cutting for the hardened exhaust seats?? I've supplied PEP PC1625-1 seats which are 0.218" depth by inch and 5/8.1.5S head. Small chamber, and smaller valves than a 1.9.
You should have no problem but Gil at OGTS will know for sure.Cautioned my machinist of the rarity and expense of the cyl head casting we are working with. The question now becomes whether or not any of y'all ever experienced any problems breaching the water jacket while cutting for the hardened exhaust seats?? I've supplied PEP PC1625-1 seats which are 0.218" depth by inch and 5/8.
Shallow depth is good...I've had issues on exhaust seats that were 3/8" deep and over 1.6" OD.Cautioned my machinist of the rarity and expense of the cyl head casting we are working with. The question now becomes whether or not any of y'all ever experienced any problems breaching the water jacket while cutting for the hardened exhaust seats?? I've supplied PEP PC1625-1 seats which are 0.218" depth by inch and 5/8.
valuable info, as always. many thanks. not one person I have tried to hire seems to know anything about 45-50 yr old Opels.Shallow depth is good...I've had issues on exhaust seats that were 3/8" deep and over 1.6" OD.
Personally I go with the same OD as the valve itself....so 1.5" seat with 1.5" valve.....certainly no reason to go larger on a 1.5 head. The actual seat-to-valve contact area occurs inside this diameter after all.
Lucky you.This is how most of my "projects" go. Right in the middle of building a motor I find these: