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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Besides an expired powerplant, this is the first major problem I've discovered. Inexplicable damage to the radiator support right in front of the crank pulley.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
upon further inspection, it would seem that careless towing rigging has distorted the "skid plate" (for lack of a better term) and lower valance. kinda' strange, what do you guys think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Is this on a Manta or something? Doesn't look like a GT thats for sure. Anyway, I know how I would fix it, but then I have access to all the necessary tools. As dallasmanta pointed out though, a channel lock and hammer minimum (vice grips are outstanding for bending and straightening tin) I would think by looking at it it's not structural (critically speaking) so straightening it as best you can through brute force, get it where it needs to be, soak it with etch primer and paint it and it will be fine. It is underneath and out of sight right? :)
But if your intention is restoration and your looking for showroom quality, and you dont know how nor have the tools to do it yourself, then your gonna need to go the extra mile and spend $$$ to have someone do it for you OR spend gobs more $$$ getting the tools you'll need and pay someone to show you or find someone you know who can show you how and bribe them with beer and have them teach you how to fix it. :yup:

Just looking at it I would guess I could make that fix in an afternoon, so long as I leave the beer drinking for afterwards :p
I don't mind bribing people, but nobody is getting any of my beer.:beerchug:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
suitable replacement parts

Aside from a considerable amount of Pacific NW condensation corrosion in the cylinder bores, it was fairly obvious that my '73 Manta was parked ages ago suffering from a cracked head and a blown gasket. Came by this one to base my hot street motor build on. Appears to have "early" style rocker studs resembling press in type. Anyone familiar with this '68 quench head?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
torquer intake mods

All the castings are out for hot tank and magnaflux inspection and the crankshaft mic'd OK. A good polishing is in order once I get it chucked up on the lathe. Bearings are on order and now I have some time to finish working on an insert for my manifold plenum. It is 1" radius. The void on the bottom of the "splitter" will need to be filled with epoxy to minimize heat expansion. It will be soft set and cast into place once the fit is completed and it drops in. Still working on porting the upper entrance of the runners.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
better safe than sorry

1.5S head. Small chamber, and smaller valves than a 1.9.
Cautioned my machinist of the rarity and expense of the cyl head casting we are working with. The question now becomes whether or not any of y'all ever experienced any problems breaching the water jacket while cutting for the hardened exhaust seats?? I've supplied PEP PC1625-1 seats which are 0.218" depth by inch and 5/8.

Correction to the above post- Part No. is PC1562-1 which is only 1 9/16"
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Shallow depth is good...I've had issues on exhaust seats that were 3/8" deep and over 1.6" OD.

Personally I go with the same OD as the valve itself....so 1.5" seat with 1.5" valve.....certainly no reason to go larger on a 1.5 head. The actual seat-to-valve contact area occurs inside this diameter after all.
valuable info, as always. many thanks. not one person I have tried to hire seems to know anything about 45-50 yr old Opels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
the last two

Exhausting amounts of searching and translation have turned up what may very well be the last two bumperettes on the planet. One from Vauxhall in the UK and one from Romania. One year only, 1973 Luxus rear overiders NOS. Metal
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
How’s the project coming?
Been awhile since there was any progress on my part. Lots of machine work going on though. Got the 1.50" hardened exhaust seats pressed in and bowl throats sized for Pontiac intakes, and 1/2 x 11/32 bronze guides for my 1.5L head. It's up on the porting bench right now waiting for a set of new cutters. I will take some pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Nearly completed acquiring the major components for my engine build over the weekend. Pace Setter side draft intake and a core DCOE 40 should do nicely. THX to Young Olds. Fascinated with the carb, so I will rebuild it myself. Getting harder to find a good carb tech anyway. Any members here with Weber experience, feel free to chime in. Vintage unit made in Italy off of an Alpha Romero, so I'm guessing that the jetting would correspond to a Manta of the same approximate size and weight???
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Nearing completion of my cyl head marathon porting job. No wonder it is so expensive to pay to have this done. Days go by. Everything pretty well hogged out now and sanding smooth all the irregularities. I needed to kick this into high gear because I was getting ready to mock up the rotating assy to check deck height. Then I realized the need to clay the valve reliefs at the same time. That means a complete cyl head, cam and valvetrain. '68 Kadette 1.5L casting is now opened up for 1.84" Pontiac intakes and has hardened seats pressed for std 1.50" Chev exhaust. All stainless swirl-polished Manley race valves to stuff in here. Unshrouding the combustion chamber and grinding the seats when it it goes back to the machine shop. Spring pockets end milled .055" to match the intakes but still need to remove the rest of the cast iron guides so the 1/2" x 11/32" bronze will accept seals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Nothing fancy here cept a low mile std crank with the best set of bearings I could find. Balance for the entire assy was done by an old-timer that is really fussy. Everthing is weight matched to well under 1/2 gm. He did my new Aluminum Pulley and a S-10 clutch conversion at the same time. I opted out of an aluminum flywheel and more time consuming, lightning, knife-edging, and blueprinting on the crank. That is full on race stuff. I'm trying to maintain a bit of streetability. What it does have is a fresh 95mm bore and a set of Keith Black hypeurtectic flat-tops out of a SBC 305. Turned .025" off the tops to get the compression height down to a reasonable level so I can still run pump gas. 10.5:1 max. Like I said, as soon as I get it mocked up, you should find that they are .007-.008" in the hole. I do not like zero deck motors. It's got a long set of cheapy Chinese h-beam rods with some new ARP bolts. Small end bored and honed for the .927" Chev pins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Nearly completed acquiring the major components for my engine build over the weekend. Pace Setter side draft intake and a core DCOE 40 should do nicely. THX to Young Olds. Fascinated with the carb, so I will rebuild it myself. Getting harder to find a good carb tech anyway. Any members here with Weber experience, feel free to chime in. Vintage unit made in Italy off of an Alpha Romero, so I'm guessing that the jetting would correspond to a Manta of the same approximate size and weight???
SSD guy now. I will delete post #21 from this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Are you going to be porting the intake manifold?
Only match porting to the head. Its the long runner PaceSetter version, so that should be sufficient. Need to maintain intake velocity there to make some torque with those long rods. Don't want them too large.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Thanks for the tips and the positive feedback Guys. Nice to know you're on the right track after considerable investment of time and money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Purchased these very Euro looking sport seats and turned them in to the upholstery shop along with the carcass from the rear. They are out of a Lancia. Soon they will have leather bolsters and headrest with tweed inserts to mimic the toasted corduroy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Yup, cast iron sucks to port. Time is obviously part of the price, the other part is knowing where to grind...I've seen many an Opel head ruined by improper porting! Yours doesn't look too bad at all.

I do however recommend more chamber unshrouding. The 1.5 heads have a tight chamber shape of course, but with big valves it gets very critical. So much so, that smaller 1.72" Chevy valves will outflow the 1.84" valves unless you unshroud the chambers. They simply stop flowing after .425" lift, and are slow to build any flow at mid lift even.

Otherwise...it's looking good!
I uncovered this inside the #4 exhaust port. What do you make of it?
 

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