Opel GT Forum banner

121 - 140 of 164 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,729 Posts
Getrag240 5spd
You shouldn’t have to grind completely thru the bellhousing to fit the S-10 clutch. But it definitely need relieving.

I’ve had an S-10 clutch with a 4-speed, ZF 5-speed, and Getrag 240 and only the Getrag bellhousing needed to be relieved. In fact I was probably the first person to ever run that combo....Getrag with S-10 clutch. Back in 1992 or so.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,851 Posts
"Relieving" the Getrag bell housing to fit an S-10 clutch conversion has been documented for a long time. Like, back when Bob had hair....

I think this is Otto's photo
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: 99449

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Discussion Starter #125
If you go back to the very first post of this thread you will see that the underbelly, front apron and lower radiator mount are not in real good shape on this car. I have reached the point of no return on whether to fix it or section it out to make some mounting tabs for the abs airdam. I got a brand new aluminum radiator and would like to use all that low air in the center opening to build an airbox over the splitter running underneath. Similar to the large pan inside the stock grill opening. I made some cardboard templates earlier but they are worthless until the airdam and some custom supporting structure can be attached. The weather is getting nicer and its time to get the bodywork done for paint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Discussion Starter #126
You shouldn’t have to grind completely thru the bellhousing to fit the S-10 clutch. But it definitely need relieving.

I’ve had an S-10 clutch with a 4-speed, ZF 5-speed, and Getrag 240 and only the Getrag bellhousing needed to be relieved. In fact I was probably the first person to ever run that combo....Getrag with S-10 clutch. Back in 1992 or so.
Was that the car that "gave 5.0 Mustangs fits between stoplights"?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Discussion Starter #127
I got a stainless M12x1.5 coupling nut and shortened it up to an inch. Thats about all the available space inside the bellhousing. I cut the threads off the pivot bolt and pressed the ball end into the one end. Screwed the threads into the other end with 1/2" airspace in between. TIG welded the assy together and countersunk the boss about an 1/8" to clear the weld. Reinstalled with half inch to spare of adjustment for clutch disk wear.
pivot bolt.jpeg countersink.jpeg installed.jpeg adjuster jamnut.jpeg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Discussion Starter #129
Aside from normal surface corrosion and road grime on suspension components, this is the only rust spot I've found on the whole car.
20200926_134655.jpg
It's not pitted very bad and no pinholes into the fuse box. Should clean up nicely.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Discussion Starter #130
The last post isn't entirely true. While my tank cleaned up real nice with a couple coats of undercoat, the inside is rusty. I'm told that pea gravel is a reasonable way to remove some of the scale. It just rains out of the filler. Ordered a liner kit from Summit Racing to etch and coat the inside. Dry as bone but still stinks like varnish. 20201004_105551.jpg 20201004_105635.jpg 20201004_105609.jpg 20201004_105621.jpg
 

·
Über Genius
Joined
·
9,312 Posts

·
Opel Rallier since 1977
Joined
·
2,225 Posts
My tank was almost as bad. I used a mix of gravel and a couple of handfuls of old nuts and bolts. Hung it with bungees on a frame and shook it for a few minutes at a time, and repeated many, many, many times, and turned it over and over, during the course of a week. The loose stuff came out but the surface was not shiney-clean by any means. Washed it multiple times with gas, and then had it steam cleaned at a local radiator shop.

The gravel I used was tan pea gravel and it seemed to wear some and produce powder that was hard to clean out. Next time, I will use limestone gravel, or just the nuts and bolts

I did not coat internally it; there have been coating problems long term in some applications and i just did not want to mess with that. So far, so good (about 500 miles, < 1 year). The high pressure FI pump straight off of ther tank has not croaked from rust or anything (yet).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Discussion Starter #134
Unobtainium delivered right to my door. You have to love the power of the worldwide web. Three different suppliers and way too much for shipping but I have what I need. These smell a bit like unicorn farts but I don't mind so much. The old bearings would probably have been good for 70-80 K so they will become spares.
20201014_155537.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Discussion Starter #135
Finnally got all the crap out of the tank and degreased. Still smells like varnish though. Small bit of fuel proof JB weld should hold the sock on there decent.
Message_1606180446516.jpg Message_1606180500757.jpg
 

·
Senior Contributor
Joined
·
5,034 Posts
Personally I would take the sock out
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Discussion Starter #137
I thought about getting a pickup mat but they are spendy and I don't need to get every last drop. I always keep my vehicles topped off to fight condensation here in damp climate.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Discussion Starter #138
20201215_140940.jpg 20201216_161746.jpg 20201217_172535.jpg Got the torque tube assy all refurbished and upgraded with HD donut and bump stops. Most of the fabrication now complete for the trailing arms and panhard bar Heim ends.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Discussion Starter #140
20201220_080353.jpg 20201220_080807.jpg Finished up up the trailing arms this morning. Time to start whacking on the coil springs from the front end to get my final ride height. Tough to massage them to fit the insulators in the spring buckets. Fun stuff.
 
121 - 140 of 164 Posts
Top