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Discussion Starter · #163 ·
Front sway bar mounting is simple compared to the rear. Don't care for the suggested u-bolt fasteners at the frame though.
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Discussion Starter · #164 ·
The pinion depth is set to the numbers for the starting point. It became obvious that it is too high. The teeth ate dragging the center carrier and tooth pattern says I need to move away from the ring gear as well. Start now making adjustments to it in .005" increments. I may blueprint the corners of the teeth for some more clearance.
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Discussion Starter · #165 ·
Entire drivetrain has now been rebuilt and I'm taking advantage of the absence of the torque tube and rear end housing to start on the 2 1/2" up and over tail pipe. Removed all the plastic fuel lines and replacing with aluminum tubing. Cleaning the undercarriage and prepping for spray undercoating is really a chore.
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Discussion Starter · #167 ·
A face mask doesn't cut it. I'll have to get an organic vapor respirator. I got a little goofy last night spraying undercoating.
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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
Progress report. Kinda nice to put alot of this restoration process behind me.
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Amazed that the rear lower valance is double walled construction of the unibody. Guess it will have to be straightened from the exterior.
 

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Discussion Starter · #169 ·
Tail pipe nearly done with fabrication work and getting ready to tack it all up. Have to hang the rear end to check all clearances. Can't wait to get the front end in the air. What I wouldn't give for a hydraulic lift. My days of rolling around on a creeper are limited.
 

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I’ve been thinking about finishing my exhaust, still need to go over the axle and do a tail pipe. Yours looks good, waiting for pictures with rear end installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #172 ·
First time I've worked on the Opel in months. Plug welded the holes in the Isuzu backing plates. Following GoinManta recipe. Tire Wheel Automotive tire Locking hubs Alloy wheel
 

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Discussion Starter · #173 ·
All the mounting holes have officially been relocated. Have to get these up on the mill to shave off the welds on the outer face and clearance the parking brake plate to accept the Opel bearing retainer plate. It is going to fight with the foot of the cable guide a bit. Still remodeling but getting closer to having this disc conversion put to bed. Hard lines for the brakes appear to be a little short.
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Discussion Starter · #174 ·
Disk brake conversion is nearly complete. Having to monkey with the emergency brake cables a bit, but i think its going to work nicely. Going to bolt up the rear wheels and get this thing back down on the ground.
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Discussion Starter · #176 ·
Played around with varying thickness of washers and determined that 3mm is the ideal offset to get the rotors to travel through the caliper brackets properly. Got these spacers for a 318i but they are oversize. They must be ground 2mm all the way around to match the hub face. Too large to fit inside the hat.
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1970 Opel Gt - Purchased July 1972 - Chartreuse - restored - 3000 miles as of 02-16, 2021 -
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Really like what I see regarding the undercoating of your car. Wish you had not shown that now I may have to follow your lead and the prep-work does not appear to be much fun.
Great job documenting your project. Keep up the good work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #179 ·
My Manta is now very similar to setting up the floater 9" rear under my racecar. Rear trailing arms and the panhard bar are infinitely adjustable. Had to elevate the car and plumb down from the centerline of the chassis. Snap lines through those points and another perpendicular to that near the back half. I measured the stock trailing arms at 16.25" ctr to ctr and installed the new ones there. Plumbed down again from centerline of the axles and found the left rear to be leading by a sixteenth of an inch. The heim joints are coupled by 5/8-18 hdwr so it needed to be lengthened by one turn. There is undoubtedly some variation in where the mounting brackets are welded within the uni-body. Got everything squared up so it will track straight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #180 ·
I am very concerned with the lack of thread engagement on the rear lug nuts with the addition of the 3MM spacers. If I was running stock stamped steel wheels it might not be an issue. I think the aluminum tuner type wheels that I've got are much thicker at the back where they bolt up to the face of the rotor hat. Unfortunately, its all got to come apart so I can pull the axles and press in longer wheel studs. Live and learn I guess. Need eight M12 studs that are 5mm longer.
 
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