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Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Couldnt find answer anywhere, so here it goes.. I am having problems with the Mantas 195/70r13s I put on years ago as they are too tall and I have issues with the springs from having the car in the air too long. So I have to get new tires.

I know the 165sr13s were 165/82r13

I found a bunch of 185/70 tires most I can only find in a S or T rated..

I did find a 185/60hr13 in a H rated (Sumitomo HTR200). It would drop the car about a 1" overall.. But I think they would really help handling, and with stiffer sidewalls it may actually not be as a big of drop as it would seem on paper.

Anyone ever use the 185/60? Just curious what to expect.. I figure right now being a little smaller won't hurt. I just hope they dont look too small in the wheel well.

Charles
 

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boomerang opeler
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not used 185/60's on a opel but i did use to have 185/70 on my escort RS2000
dropped them down to 185/60 and it made a huge change, the turn in was much crisper ,the grip out of a corner was better and the grip when harm was far better
these were parelli P7's and 6's
also the tread ware was much faster but that may have been me :D :D
 

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Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cool.. that is kind of what I was thinking a 70 series is more a street tire, and a 60 more a performance one..

Couldn't beat the price either ($35 each for either the 70 or 60) and being the Opeler I am (Cheap), I couldn't pass up a performance upgrade that was essentially free.
 

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205/60-13

I have the 205/60-13 Falken on some wheels on the Rallye. They look fine.

I need to get the shocks rebuilt however. How's that Manta? I heard that you had some electrical woes.
 

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185/70-13 are shorter by .2 -.3" than the original 165/80-13s, about 0.8% error

185/60-13 will make you speedometer indicate higher than actual speed by 7.1%. Due to the shorter sidewalls they will handle much better. Fuel mileage will suffer tho.
 

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Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yea I figured all that, just wondered more how they would look.. and if my son doesn't know he is doing 55 when it reads 63, that would be a good thing I think ;)

As for electrical woes.. all are gone, they were all cast off by installation of a brand new wiring harness.

Brake woes on the other hand... UGH... I have two nights to try to get everything in top order. Add to that I just spent $100 with the shop to bleed the brakes and they failed to do much better than my first shot at it. Pretty sure this time it's not the master, but instead some air or possibly calipers.. Havent figured it all out yet.

Add to that they swapped a lug nut on me so I have 11 brand new shiny ones, and one dirty old ugly one, add to the insult they partially stripped the thread on the lug... This has made me highly pissed..

They will refund some of my money and I probably wont go back to them either. The mechanic I always liked they replaced. I have to say though Ken the owner, did do a great job getting my carb and ignition tuned out.

I also really need to replace the gas tank and get the exhuast fixed.. all by Thursday.... UGH... I did order the tires and those should go on Wednesday.

Charles
 

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Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
>> UPDATE <<< I just noticed my problem maybe from the driver side rubber line.. I replaced two weeks ago.. It's showing rub marks from the tire !!

Gonna have to call Gil and have one overnighted.. At least I have already planned to get the new tires.. Man this sucks..

Charles
 

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boomerang opeler
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which way do you bleed your brakes ? the gm way or the european way i remember last year we were chatting about this on a thread and someone was doing it what he called the normal gm way starting at the rear and working in (as you would for an all drum system he said ) instead of from the front left (shortest first) and working back
 

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baz said:
which way do you bleed your brakes ? the gm way or the european way i remember last year we were chatting about this on a thread and someone was doing it what he called the normal gm way starting at the rear and working in (as you would for an all drum system he said ) instead of from the front left (shortest first) and working back
Baz, I was always told to start at the right rear and work forwards, (the normal gm way). What really is the difference between that and the european way, (front left (shortest first) if any at all? Don't both ways produce the same results? Just curious. Jarrell
 

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Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Actually everyone I know works the Passenger Rear first, Driver rear 2nd, Then the Passenger Front and Driver Front.

Going from furthest to closest... Supposedly this will help in getting the air out of the entire system faster.

BTW called the shop and they are refunding my money on the bleeding they attempted. I hate this part though, they blame it on being a Opel and not knowing how to work on them.. What a load of total horse crap.

Only the rear brake adjustment is funny, and they had figured it out enough to make the driver side too tight and passenger side too loose (also something I am thinking may have been part of the problem, will find out tonight). Also they didn't go to bleed the master until they had been messing with the car for over a hour and a half. This after I specifically told them I had just replaced the master, and think it has air I can't seem to get out. I had to ask thier mechanic if he had bleed the master when he called me at work (Which he hadn't).

This is not what I would expect from a shop like thiers.. especially using the excuse that it's an Opel thats lame. This is from the same shop (But alas not the same mechanic) that dismantled my Bitters front suspension, and reassembled it perfectly without the shop manual. Which I would think is a tad more difficult than bleeding and adjusting the brakes. They said if they had more time they would have gotten it. How much more time did they need to do a 45 minute job at most ? Especially at $70 a hour... ?

Err... I am highly annoyed.. and stressed..
 

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boomerang opeler
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jarrell its the same here i supose its just who we were told but on any thing with discs on the front it seams to work better
charles you are right about the rear brakes you have to get the adjustment right before they feel right on the pedal(1 out gives a long pedal that pumps up )
 

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Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
baz said:
1 out gives a long pedal that pumps up
The big question for adjusting the damn things.. How loose or tight do you adjust them? I have ALWAYS hated adjusting them... (Why I came up with a way to install Isuzu Impulse brakes.. )

Anyway, I just adjusted them to the point where you can barely pull the drum off, but so it still locks with the E-brake. Should it be tighter?

Say, just to the point that they can barely be spun with the tire on ? Then let the car do the final adjustment by burning off the amount of pad it needs to be "perfect"..

The difference in the adjustment seems to be about 1 degree on the adjusting nut or less.

Charles
 

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OPEL-LESS!!!
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back to the tires, i'm running 185/60s. they look good and fit well, no rubs anywhere.

on the brakes. as baz stated all must be adjusted, the brake pedal it's self included. i'd rather adjust the manta pedal than the GT one, so much simpler!

for adjusting the rears, i always put the back of the car in the air, and would keep the wheel spinning by my hand until i fealt just a slight drag on that brake, if you can just get the drum off and still roll pretty easy you probably have them adjusted right now.
 

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Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
greensmurf20 said:
back to the tires, i'm running 185/60s. they look good and fit well, no rubs anywhere.
Good to hear, I assume this is on your GT though..

I guess it doesn't matter one way or the other now since I bought them. The real issue will be if I drive the car to get the new tires tommorrow or just bring the rims.

Charles
 

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OPEL-LESS!!!
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they were on my GT, but GT is on jackstands at the moment getting body work done as the manta is driving on those rims, they fit well on both cars.
 

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Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Got a side picture of the Manta with the rims and tires on it?

Charles
 

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OPEL-LESS!!!
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Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Cool, the tires will definately look fine.. OR I will notice just how stretched my springs are..
 

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I'm a little confused here. I've always been led to believe that the stock rims on Opels can't handle any tire wider than a 70. Are you running over width tires on stock rims or have you replaced the rims with wider ones?
 

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Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The 60 or 70 designation is the profile, not width.

I am no expert, but if I rememebr the overall "jist" of it. The Opel rims pretty much max out at about 195. Although 205 and 215s have been mounted to the 5.5" rims, but doing so ends up with a lot of sidewall flex.

Charles
 
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