AutoBody Anti Rust Suggestions
Having grown up next to my dad doing auto body and paint there are some pointers I can give that will hopefully be helpful. Some may be obvious others not. Here goes:
1. When you begin to restore your GT, IF you sand it down to bare metal or sandblast it, make sure you clean the car thoroughly, air blast, vacuum, wipe down with solvent. YOU MUST put a bare metal sealant or primer on as soon as possible (immediately). Exposed metal especially in humid environments will begin to rust. Even if you don't see surface rust, it may have started after leaving bare metal exposed for a week or so. If you primer/seal the car late, you're asking for trouble... your rust may come back AFTER you've painted!
2. Rust and Corrosion are not the same! After you have stripped it, by whatever means you choose, any sanding, grinding, or blasting should remove surface rust. AFTER the car is primered or sealed is when you should address cutting out and replacing corroded metal. This is the metal that has blistered and separated or completely rotted away. Only start what you can finish! Cut out one section of body panel at a time, prep the car metal and the donor part making sure all the metal is bare near the welding areas. Weld the new donor part in, do any grinding or sanding to smooth it out. Strip the entire donor part clean. Add and sand body filler. Primer/Seal. Once you're done with that ONE area go on to the next.
3. Anywhere you find surface rust that is beginning to pit or bubble into corrosion, sand/grind it down to the bare metal. Apply a rust inhibitor treatment (ie. Jaspers) and allow the product to work according to manufacturers directions. This should kill any rust and stop any up and coming corrosion.
4. Choose a sealer designed to inhibit rust/corrosion. Make sure you apply the primer/sealer when the temperature is 75 degrees F or more. Otherwise a heating unit must be used to warm up the car and paint booth. Low temps will inhibit proper curing and cause major headaches!
5. If you don't have experience painting and don't want to use your GT as a learner, PAY a reputable body shop or painter to do it. Call around and get estimates, ask to see the body shops portfolio, ask them what their refund/satisfaction policy is. Ask to see their business license and insurance policy.
6. You should have at least 2-3 coats of color for a one step paint, or at least 2 coats of color and 2-3 coats of clear for a two step paint. Once everything has cured you can colorsand the factory orange peel texture off and buff it out. One step paint with NO CLEAR will definately need a polish and wax to seal the paint. One step paint will give you that factory original look that our GT's started with. Two step paint will give you richer more even color coverage and high gloss that lasts longer.
7. Work SMARTER not HARDER! There are many new waxes and polishes out there on the market. My favorite is Waterless Dri Wash N Guard. Spray it on (without washing car) wipe to a haze, wipe it off with a polishing cloth and done! Keeping your car's paint/clear polished not only keeps it looking good, but prevents water and UV rays from penetrating and breaking down your paint. The longer you keep it out of the sun and polished, the longer it prevents the water and moisture from causing your car to rust again!
8. Anything worth doing is worth doing right! Never do a botched attempt at fixing rust or corrosion. I guarantee if you don't take the proper preparation steps IT WILL COME BACK!