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Discussion Starter · #301 ·
Maybe USPS doesn't send the email out until they're scanned in? I packed them up with the my 8 year old employee last night and dropped them all off at USPS this AM. If nothing shows up overnight in your inbox let me know. I'll call the Postmaster General himself
 

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1970 Opel Gt - Purchased July 1972 - Chartreuse - restored - 3000 miles as of 02-16, 2021 -
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Jeff, have you sold the remaining pan already?
In the event one is still available I would like to purchase it.......A new more efficient part for an old car what could be better. An early Christmas present to myself. Thanks, Carl
 

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I have a question. After holding my new cover in storage, allowing it to age for almost 18 months, I pulled it out and installed it. However, when I pulled the old cover, the only thing that dropped down was the spring -- no sign of the ball, although I did not think to look up into the hole for it. Rally Bob has mentioned that, on occasion, the ball will actually be held in place by the stickiness of the gear oil. I would say that I hope this is the case with my gearbox, except that I was raised under the Old Man's dictum that "'Hope', 'Hospital' and 'Horseshit' are all on the same page of the dictionary.

So my question is, "What is the purpose of the (possibly missing) ball, and what penalty will I pay if it is not there?"

Thanks, in advance.
 

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The ball sits in a recess in the reverse gear shaft when in "reverse" , and functions as a reverse shifter "detente" to help hold it in reverse gear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #307 ·
I’ve got the 2 pans left. Message me if you’re interested. The gen 2 (without spring keeper) is a few bucks less. Give me a few days as I’m currently in the north woods enjoying the scenery!

436319
 

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Replaced my old transmission pan with the New Second Generation Pan this afternoon, thanks Opelspenner. A very smooth, straight forward procedure. I watched Knorm's Video on the subject and was glad that I did - the process is as you would think, very straight forward, however Knorm talked about the clip that is used to hold the speedometer cable in place which I had completely forgotten about. So not only do I have a new pan but I also have that cable secured and higher off the road being less likely to snag something. This kind of find is why I love videos and pictures as videos and pictures really eliminate so many question and supply so many answers.


437081

I also took the time to put new connectors on the wires to the back up switch using the shrink wrap as an additional step to help them last.


To separate the pan I first used a box cutter and then inserted an old screw driver that has had the head flatten to a very thin tool that is less likely to scratch the pan or the bottom of the transmission's body resulting in those scratches that can cause future leaks. I did dress both sides of the new gasket with Permetax black, a very thin coat, and then bolted down the new pan right away to ensure a good leak free future.
437088


I was also pleased to see that the interior of the transmission and the transmission gears were not only clean and shiny but there was no damage and no metal shaving in the bottom of the pan. Also the spring did come out but not the ball - I am assuming the ball is still in place as the shifter in reverse works as it should.

437082


The last step is to fill the transmission with new lube tomorrow. Using GL- 5 SAE 80W-90 W Gear Oil. Another summer time adventure made possible by a portable AC unit that I put in the garage window when I want to spend a hot day starting or finishing a project.

437089
 

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The last step is to fill the transmission with new lube tomorrow. Using GL- 5 SAE 80W-90 W Gear Oil.
You’ll want to fill that gearbox with GL-4 gear oil. GL-5 contains sulphur which is corrosive to brass synchro rings.
 

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Thanks Bob, I had no idea. Back to the store for the right stuff tomorrow. Thanks again. Carl
 

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.... the clip that is used to hold the speedometer cable in place which I had completely forgotten about. So not only do I have a new pan but I also have that cable secured and higher off the road being less likely to snag something.
I don't recall seeing the speedometer cable on the early transmissions ('69 and '70 w/ the right-angle speedo drive) crossing underneath the transmission pan such as it seems to be. That seems like a sure-fired way to damage the cable. Can it be routed along side the transmission, or above and over the tail extension?
 

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I don't recall seeing the speedometer cable on the early transmissions ('69 and '70 w/ the right-angle speedo drive) crossing underneath the transmission pan such as it seems to be. That seems like a sure-fired way to damage the cable. Can it be routed along side the transmission, or above and over the tail extension?
The right angle drive drops the cable below the level of the transmission Pan. The smoothest arc is to cross along the bottom of the pan to the clip mounted to the pan from the factory. You aren’t going to damage it without taking out the oil Pan and crossmembers first.

Going over the tail shaft would destroy the cable. Going along the side of transmission might work for a few years. The bend required to clear the corner and get back to the drivers side is a bit too much.
 

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The right angle drive drops the cable below the level of the transmission Pan. The smoothest arc is to cross along the bottom of the pan to the clip mounted to the pan from the factory. You aren’t going to damage it without taking out the oil Pan and crossmembers first.

Going over the tail shaft would destroy the cable. Going along the side of transmission might work for a few years. The bend required to clear the corner and get back to the drivers side is a bit too much.
[/QU
The picture makes it look like it is bent far more than it really is - the difference between it just
hanging free and using the tab to secure it hardly makes a difference in the actual bend of the cable.....I think that it sould be OK, Time will tell - again it is really not bent anymore than it was prior to putting on the clip.
 

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You’ll want to fill that gearbox with GL-4 gear oil. GL-5 contains sulfur which is corrosive to brass synchro rings.
Greetings Bob, So I have been to a couple of auto supply stores looking for the GL-4 gear oil and not having much luck finding what I think is the right product. I have found bottles that clearly say GL-5 but nothing that clearly says GL-4 Gear oil. I found bottles that state the gear oil meets both criteria which did not seem to be possible, is it..? Can you tell me if you have a brand you can purchase locally at an auto supply store or is this something that should be ordered on line and if so what are your recommendation. Thanks, Carl
 

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So I have been to a couple of auto supply stores looking for the GL-4 gear oil and not having much luck finding what I think is the right product....
Isn't to find around here is Royal Purple, a synthetic. Redline, probably Amsoil or maybe even Shaeffers if you have a dealer nearby.

HTH,
Harold
 

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Isn't to find around here is Royal Purple, a synthetic. Redline, probably Amsoil or maybe even Shaeffers if you have a dealer nearby.

HTH,
Harold
Thanks Harold, Been searching the internet and there is so much stuff to sift through, you search specifically for GL-4 but you get all the other crap that you have no interest in - I found on Amazon that the Royal Purple was not currently available and may not be in the future, that is in the 80-90 - I can get other weights which perhaps 75- 90 would be OK. But the 80-90- seems to be an issue. I guess this is just another thing that has changed and I missed it, 4 speed transmissions are going the way of the dinosaur so more of the stuff we need is being discontinued. Guess when I find it a gallon may be in order. Anyway will keep everyone posted - as of yesterday I never knew the difference between GL-4 and GL-5 but you can learn a lot in a day. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Best, Carl PS I found Driven racing GL-4 --80-90 gear oil at Summit Racing - 11.99 quart...
 

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I doubt there is much 80w90 non-synthetic on the market. All the 75w90 I can remember seeing is synthetic or possibly a blend. I've read up on Driven's engine oil for classic cars that aren't "Driven" (no pun intended) very much. Sounded good. My cars get driven quite a bit. I've recently switched to Shaeffer's because it's offered in a weigh, 15w40 with Zinc, that I like.

Harold
 

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Thanks Harold, Been searching the internet and there is so much stuff to sift through, you search specifically for GL-4 but you get all the other crap that you have no interest in - I found on Amazon that the Royal Purple was not currently available and may not be in the future, that is in the 80-90 - I can get other weights which perhaps 75- 90 would be OK. But the 80-90- seems to be an issue. I guess this is just another thing that has changed and I missed it, 4 speed transmissions are going the way of the dinosaur so more of the stuff we need is being discontinued. Guess when I find it a gallon may be in order. Anyway will keep everyone posted - as of yesterday I never knew the difference between GL-4 and GL-5 but you can learn a lot in a day. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Best, Carl PS I found Driven racing GL-4 --80-90 gear oil at Summit Racing - 11.99 quart...
Royal Purple 01300 Max Gear 75W-90 High Performance Synthetic Automotive Gear Oil , 1 Quart (32 Ounces) Amazon.com: Royal Purple 01300 Max Gear 75W-90 High Performance Synthetic Automotive Gear Oil , 1 Quart (32 Ounces): Automotive

I use this. It’s available at autozone and oreillys sometimes.
 
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