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A final suggestion for installing the ARA in a GT is to put a 6-8" loop in the condensor hoses in front of the radiator. This way, when it is time for a new battery, you just have to remove 4 sheet metal screws from the condenser and rotate it up and out of the way without having to break any hose fittings or add any new freon.

Bob
On Willit? with the GM AC, the dealer cut a hole in the belly pan to remove and install the battery, the hole is covered with a panel held on with sheetmetal screws. I still have to jack up the front of the car to get the battery out just to keep the battery posts from arcing and sparking if they touch the sheetmetal. :eek:
 

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But only for GM A/C!

hmmm another part LOL well that one snuck up have never seen one.I just bought a 72 GM supplemental manual to the GM manual for the AC hopefully it will have pictures. The longer hose is an excellent suggestion for anyone installing one of these units one of those forgotten items until you have to change batteries as you stated and almost a need to do, fortunately mine is already long the hoses came with the car, I've already ran into the battery installation issue. Thanks as always for the information.
. . . those may indeed have A/C photos, but only for GM A/C and, unfortunately, NONE for your ARA . . . doesn't help you much!

BTW, the '73 and '74 FSMs have very detailed pics of GM A/C installations and how everything ties together in the back of each manual. There is a "battery tray "adapter shown for the GT that basically changes the orientation of the battery from north-south to east-west for both clearance to mount the condenser and assist battery removal . . . but for GM A/C. Doesn't mean that this couldn't be used for ARA as well!
 

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There is a "battery tray "adapter shown for the GT that basically changes the orientation of the battery from north-south to east-west for both clearance to mount the condenser and assist battery removal . . . but for GM A/C. Doesn't mean that this couldn't be used for ARA as well!
Not quite following here, the battery won't fit between the condenser and sheet metal to allow you drop it down into the battery tray, condenser has to moved out of the way to get it down past the body to get it in there, orientation after you get it down there I don't think makes a difference. Or am I not understanding I am at work today I may be a little dull :banghead:
I will try to get some pics tomorrow,.. I guess you have to upload pictures to gallery to attach to messages here?
 

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What Otto is referring to, is the battery sits too close to the structure where the condensor mounts and will rub against it, or will not allow the battery to sit in the tray. With the addition of the second battery tray mounted on top of the original, the battery is rotated 90 degrees and moved forward, closer to the main cross beam, so there's clearance for the condensor and battery.

To attach pics to a reply or quote to a thread, scroll down in the reply box to the manage attachments box, click on that and a window will open allowing you to attach two pics at a time, up to five per reply. The pics can be a maximum of 300 KB .jpg files. HTH.
 

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To attach pics to a reply or quote to a thread, scroll down in the reply box to the manage attachments box, click on that and a window will open allowing you to attach two pics at a time, up to five per reply. The pics can be a maximum of 300 KB .jpg files. HTH.
It looks to me like you have to have them already uploaded in Gallery, it gives me this message when I just try to ad pictures

"See this? It means you have no freaking pictures in your gallery to show"

So the answer is yes, I need to have them in Gallery already to post here?
 

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upload pictures

may be slow, but I finally see the option for uploading to message.
thanks
 

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tomking
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So the answer is yes, I need to have them in Gallery already to post here?
NO, you dont have to have them in the gallery. click on manage attachments on the post page and then browse. This allows you to browse your computer to find the pics and then you doubl. Then upload. I think this is correct. Follow the prompts.
 

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ARA unit

pics are nothing to brag about car is dirty only pulled it out of storage last week but you can see the ductwork on the interior (which mine is missing the vents) the compressor mounted on the engine and the connector for the rear unit behide the seats and you can see the battery does not come close to the condenser to rub against it.
 

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71 opel Gt

this is the car the unit is mounted in and BTW there was no charge for the CPVC piping used to route the water to heater that is temporary I have stainless steel tubing to replace it with when I relocate it behind the compressor
 

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ARA unit

Heres the picture of one of the intake air vent on each side of stand up enclosure unit is mounted in, behind the seats , also has the lid on it.
 

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PVC in coolant system . . . uh, NO!!

pics are nothing to brag about car is dirty only pulled it out of storage last week but you can see the ductwork on the interior (which mine is missing the vents) the compressor mounted on the engine and the connector for the rear unit behide the seats and you can see the battery does not come close to the condenser to rub against it.
this is the car the unit is mounted in and BTW there was no charge for the CPVC piping used to route the water to heater that is temporary I have stainless steel tubing to replace it with when I relocate it behind the compressor
. . . glad you noticed that, Dennis, as I can tell your from personal experience that PVC used anywhere in the engine coolant system will not work for long . . . heat will deform PVC, especially at clamping points, resulting in leaks and eventual replacement of the PVC pieces.

The most-effective/easy-to-fabricate stuff I've found is correctly-sized, hard-copper tubing and fittings which can be easily sweat-soldered together!
 

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thats CPVC not PVC (pvc is low temp glue would come undone CPVC is high temp and you have to use CPVC cement) it has been on there for years no issues just looks like crap LOL I have stainless tubing to replace it with just debating on 1/2 which seems too small to 3/4 that seems too big also have copper tubing think it is 1/2 getting ready to redo all that stuff around that side don't like the way it looks but really don't have much room to clean it up in ..
 

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tomking
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Dennis I apologize for not taking and posting the pictures of my compressor idler pulley like I said I would. I just forgot it. However my York does not mount high up like yours is. Mine is also on the passenger side but down low; so I doubt my pics would help you anyway.
 

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Dennis I apologize for not taking and posting the pictures of my compressor idler pulley like I said I would. I just forgot it. However my York does not mount high up like yours is. Mine is also on the passenger side but down low; so I doubt my pics would help you anyway.
It is ok pictures got posted and it showed me what it looked like thanks for the intentions.:yup: Very forgetful myself at times.
You say your york mounts lower or do you mean it is not as tall? I would like something a bit no so invasive. I am going to go next week and check on the copper piping/tubing , I think he means the copper piping you use for water in a house, got a lumber store just down the road.

tekenaar.
" The most-effective/easy-to-fabricate stuff I've found is correctly-sized, hard-copper tubing and fittings which can be easily sweat-soldered together!"

I checked the tubing late last night and as it had looked the 3/4 is too big and the 1/2 is too small.

I always get it wrong, but I think tubing is OD and pipe is ID but they are measured different. Time to thank everyone for time and contributions. I did get the supplemental GM air conditioning manual for 72 year, but as predicted it covers the rotary type compressor, it's no loss it has a lot of information in it. Again thanks for pictures and infomation given on this thread.
 

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Tubing/piping vernacular . . . "hard-copper" is the operative word here!

. . . I am going to go next week and check on the copper piping/tubing , I think he means the copper piping you use for water in a house, got a lumber store just down the road.

tekenaar.
" The most-effective/easy-to-fabricate stuff I've found is correctly-sized, hard-copper tubing and fittings which can be easily sweat-soldered together!"

I checked the tubing late last night and as it had looked the 3/4 is too big and the 1/2 is too small.

I always get it wrong, but I think tubing is OD and pipe is ID but they are measured different. . . .
. . . uh, that's why I called it "hard-copper" tubing . . . being the only type that is specifically designed for "sweat-soldering", i.e OD of "tubing" fits directly into ID of its fittings . . . the only exception being the "street-L" which fits over its tubing on one end and inside the same-size tubing on the other end!

I've never heard it called hard-copper pipe, BTW, I've always heard it referred to as just "copper tubing" (the "soft" type) or "hard-copper tubing!"

There . . . Plumbing 101 lesson complete! :lmao:
 

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I've never heard it called hard-copper pipe, BTW, I've always heard it referred to as just "copper tubing" (the "soft" type) or "hard-copper tubing!"

probably has several user friendly names this is what I thought you were talking about:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productList&N=0&Ntk=i_products&Ntt=copper pipe

if not that was what I thought you meant and it will work better the pipe it is the same size as heater core lines I can get some insulating pipe cover and make it look better possible or more like a hose.

Anyway getting ready for work tonight be on later
 

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thats CPVC not PVC (pvc is low temp glue would come undone CPVC is high temp and you have to use CPVC cement) it has been on there for years no issues just looks like crap LOL I have stainless tubing to replace it with just debating on 1/2 which seems too small to 3/4 that seems too big also have copper tubing think it is 1/2 getting ready to redo all that stuff around that side don't like the way it looks but really don't have much room to clean it up in ..
The correct SAE size for the heater core is 5/8" hose. IDK if copper tubing can be had in that size, it's been a while since I checked. On Willit? I had to buy 20" of thick wall 5/8" steel tubing, get it bent with a hydraulic bender, then cut the old tubes off the flange and weld on the new tubes. If space is a problen around the compressor, then Otto is correct, the copper will work, but I would only use a very short run of it and anchor it securely. It will work harden and stress crack if subjected to vibrations.
 

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The correct SAE size for the heater core is 5/8" hose. IDK if copper tubing can be had in that size, it's been a while since I checked.
Ron, 1/2" copper plumber's tubing is almost exactly 5/8" OD, so it works with the heater hoses perfectly. I suppose they must rate the copper tubing by ID then?

Remember this? And the finished product? Made from 1/2" copper, fits the 5/8" Opel heater hoses.
 

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The correct SAE size for the heater core is 5/8" hose. IDK if copper tubing can be had in that size, it's been a while since I checked. If space is a problen around the compressor, then Otto is correct, the copper will work, but I would only use a very short run of it and anchor it securely. It will work harden and stress crack if subjected to vibrations.
Unless Otto has a different copper item in mind I'm going with the pipe and soldered joints, just may use silver solder instead of regular solder if it works. Schedule 80 tubing would be thicker but for the price and ease, you would have to use fittings not bends radius of bends would be of no help in tight spot as this, it would be an expensive job the fittings are bigger and heavier than standard fittings as well. Thanks for your opinions.
 

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The 1/2 inch hard copper pipe, tubing if you want, will fit nicely inside the 5/8 inch heater hose and hold with the clamp. I use the elbows to make bends instead of trying to bend sharply the heater hose. The mantas i think had a specially formed heater hose which is no longer available.
Here is a pic or two of my York location in my Manta. It is hardly visible but cant get a clearer shot due to where it is located down low.
 

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