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Discussion Starter #1
Good Morning all,
I thought maybe starting a new post would add focus to this issue.
I just received my new 1"drop spring and I think there was a mishap from the factory.
Noticed an issue at the pinch bend by the spring eye so I took some measurements to see and this is what I found
also noticed on that same side that the resistants for the spring eye bushing is much less and doesn't start until much deeper into the eye.
Interesting enough the side of concern also seems as when it was pinched to arch it was pinched crooked
I was hoping to get some feed back before I call the supplier
If this is a bad spring I think it's important to let him know in case this spring isn't the only one!
And lastly shouldn't there be a rubber bushing for the center of the spring where it rest in the front member?
 

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Good Morning all,
I thought maybe starting a new post would add focus to this issue.
I just received my new 1"drop spring and I think there was a mishap from the factory.
Noticed an issue at the pinch bend by the spring eye so I took some measurements to see and this is what I found
also noticed on that same side that the resistants for the spring eye bushing is much less and doesn't start until much deeper into the eye.
Interesting enough the side of concern also seems as when it was pinched to arch it was pinched crooked
I was hoping to get some feed back before I call the supplier
If this is a bad spring I think it's important to let him know in case this spring isn't the only one!
And lastly shouldn't there be a rubber bushing for the center of the spring where it rest in the front member?
In your pictures, one side appears to be 1/4 in different. Shouldn't both be the same? I was thinking about lowering mine, but will wait to see what transpires with yours. Jarrell
 

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Discussion Starter #3
one would think But dunno if It's side specific (doubt it) sure don't want to install if it's defective
And hate to contact our friend to tell him but at the same time I think it's important he know's
What if all the springs he got are a problem?:ugh:
 

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one would think But dunno if It's side specific (doubt it) sure don't want to install if it's defective
And hate to contact our friend to tell him but at the same time I think it's important he know's
What if all the springs he got are a problem?:ugh:
I was wondering where it was purchased. I think I know now. I would contact them and discuss this with them. Esp if it concerns the whole batch of springs. Jarrell
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was wondering where it was purchased. I think I know now. I would contact them and discuss this with them. Esp if it concerns the whole batch of springs. Jarrell
you definitely know who and is probably of great concern to them as well.
I just want to make sure I'm not A complete D.A. before I contact them.
I just had a defective lower ball joint replaced, bad outa the package.
Boy I don't want to be the guy always with a problem, know what I mean?
 

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you definitely know who and is probably of great concern to them as well.
I just want to make sure I'm not A complete D.A. before I contact them.
I just had a defective lower ball joint replaced, bad outa the package.
Boy I don't want to be the guy always with a problem, know what I mean?
Can't hurt to ask. Always heard, better to act like a fool, than not to act and be a fool. :yup::no:Jarrell
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Although a slight difference in bendage near the spring eye probably would have no functional effect on the car, coupled with that seemingly poorly peened rivet, I would return it for a refund or exchange for a more precisely manufactured one.

I've had the 1" lowering spring on my cars for 35 years. It's one of the first things you should replace on a GT. Not because of the lowering, but because of the vast handling improvement.
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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I am not sure the bend differences make any difference by themselves, you just want to transfer the load to main spring material. I might be a bit concerned over the sharpness of the bend near one end as a source of possible cracks. If one end is twisted sideways, then that seems like a real issue with pinching the end bushing.

As for the bolt head at the top, it just looks like a sloppy job of grinding off the head of that spring bolt. Not any real concern IMHO. Cut some inner tube or other thing rubber sheet for a spring pad.

Overall, not great work IMHO.
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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I've had the 1" lowering spring on my cars for 35 years. It's one of the first things you should replace on a GT. Not because of the lowering, but because of the vast handling improvement.
No doubt it does do that. Just curious if those who install this stiffer front spring do anything to change the rear springs or put in a stiffer rear anti-sway bar. The reason to ask is that, if these are like the Manta/Ascona chassis, they come from the factory with heavier front brake bias and tend to plow in hard braking. Adding more roll stiffness just up front makes the car tend to plow more even when not under braking.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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For where I live, there is a definite drawback to lowering a GT. I live in the rainy Northeast and we have very pronounced dips at every intersection for drainage and our roads slope steeply to the sides to direct water to the curbs, which causes pronounced dips at all our driveways. GT's bottom out and hit the belly pan unless you constantly monitor your speed through those dips on the local roads. Air dams? Ha! You might as well take a hammer to them and smash the crapp out of them BEFORE you install them, 'cuz you'll surely tear them off within the first 6 months. On my recent cars I added the 1" lowering rear spring. Oh good, now my rear end bottoms out on those dips, too.

Personally, I wish they sold stiffer front and rear springs that DIDN'T lower your car.

:sigh:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
For where I live, there is a definite drawback to lowering a GT. I live in the rainy Northeast and we have very pronounced dips at every intersection for drainage and our roads slope steeply to the sides to direct water to the curbs, which causes pronounced dips at all our driveways. GT's bottom out and hit the belly pan unless you constantly monitor your speed through those dips on the local roads. Air dams? Ha! You might as well take a hammer to them and smash the crapp out of them BEFORE you install them, 'cuz you'll surely tear them off within the first 6 months. On my recent cars I added the 1" lowering rear spring. Oh good, now my rear end bottoms out on those dips, too.

Personally, I wish they sold stiffer front and rear springs that DIDN'T lower your car.

:sigh:
Gordo I want to agree with you but I'm so new I don't really know the difference.
My original plan was to rebuild the original spring but all the talk about 4+4 stance and having to re-arch, well I can pretty much assure you, that I'm aware of there aren't any spring shops for re-arching in Florida.
I still have the rebuild kit I guess I could do it any way and see what happens and if it's looking like I need to put some rock crawlers on it I'll go to the 1" spring.
I guess the only positive outa this is 2 things
1) I have both springs to play with
2) I'm much more comfortable with the spring compressor/decompressor I built
The negative
1) I'd have to pull the front end apart again
2) that's less time to drive this ol betty :yup:
 

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TC: For re-arching, the place to look is big truck repair shops. You will find some of them service truck suspensions and some still have re-arching equipment and the skills to do it. I'd be surprised to not find one or more around the Orlando area.

Gordo: For stiffening the stock spring it might be possible to add spring clamps in the right spots to make them stiffer/and or raise them. (But I don't have a Kadett A/B suspension anymore to see how to fit them in.) Perhaps a better option would be to add in a leaf and re-arch for ride height. Again, I don't have the parts here to try to pick one....
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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At this point in my life, my car's current exoticness, and use for my GT(car shows), how well my car performs under stress isn't my first consideration any more. GT's are what they are: They were a styling experiment. They weren't made for performance, they were made for looks. Period. From a design standpoint, they're impractical in almost every sense of the word. They're Space Age on the outside, but Stone Age on the inside. That's part of what makes them fun for a lot of us: We're driving in a cool looking car that looks like it can conquer the world, but which is built like a baby buggy, and fixing them up to try to make them truly competitive is big fun for us tinkerers.

Mantas were made to do it all and pretty well. They're a totally different car. The only thing they have in common is the engine. Almost everything about them is better and designed totally different than a GT. I learned all this after messing around with that Manta/Ascona I bought. Everywhere you looked there was a totally different design philosophy employed. Different American car brands of the same era all pretty much were designed the same way. The American way: Big and clunky with lots of extra empty space. The whole assembly concept of a Manta is different. Screws everywhere holding the panels on, some impossible to reach. A massive front suspension assembly. A mind-numbingly different dashboard and fusebox. Even the gas pedal was wacky: It was screwed to the carpet! I've never driven a Manta, but from what I hear they're great for just about everything.

Blah, blah, blah, I have no idea why I decided to expound about a car I know very little about. I think it was all to say that Manta-type Opels are vastly different in their physical dynamics and can't possibly be compared to GT's on the same level.

I really just wanted to talk to Terry about The First Upgrades You Should Do To Your Opel(or That Most People Do). The big 5 are:

1" lowering front spring
Electronic ignition
Weber 32/36 carb
Better brakes
2.0 big valve engine

If I bought a stock GT right now, I wouldn't even drive it until I had installed those 5 things. Reliability, safety, and performance. Just do those 5 things and your car wouldn't be all that much different than my car, performance/safety/reliability-wise. I was just looking for a good body to put those 5 things on, but I got a great deal on my heavily modified body GTX car. I HAD to do all that crazy/chromy stuff to it. I had no choice. What? Put stock stuff on car that looks like it could fly to Jupiter? Hell no. I HAD to mod every single thing to do justice to the mods done to the body.

But, I didn't want that. I just wanted a sound, restoration-worthy, GT. Give it a great paint job(definitely yellow), put some nice new parts on it, maybe a wing, make it work a little better, have fun driving it. No car shows. No trying to keep up with PJ and Jeff.

Oh, geez, I'm off on a tangent again.

The front lowering spring is a great upgrade and you'll notice the driving improvement right away. Right now if you push down on your fender the car will bounce. It won't budge with the 1" spring, your car will track much better through turns. Add some front and rear sway bars(A 6th first thing you ought to do mod) and now you've got yourself a sports car. Good power, good brakes, good reliability, good handling(Okay, add #7: High traction/high speed all season tires).
 

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I don’t know with your pictures, maybe some not so close pics would help. The center bolt is normal, and no rubber buffer is needed. These do not have the clamp in the center so it will not make contact. I don’t think your bends so much matter there anyways, but at times with the heavier duty ball joints, the bases are thicker and make contact with the outer eyelet of the spring, so I grind these out a bit to allow clearance. The center hole of the spring is the critical point, you are not going to see a difference when it is installed.
 

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Good Morning all,
I thought maybe starting a new post would add focus to this issue.
I just received my new 1"drop spring and I think there was a mishap from the factory.
Noticed an issue at the pinch bend by the spring eye so I took some measurements to see and this is what I found
also noticed on that same side that the resistants for the spring eye bushing is much less and doesn't start until much deeper into the eye.
Interesting enough the side of concern also seems as when it was pinched to arch it was pinched crooked
I was hoping to get some feed back before I call the supplier
If this is a bad spring I think it's important to let him know in case this spring isn't the only one!
And lastly shouldn't there be a rubber bushing for the center of the spring where it rest in the front member?
I can't make out what you are showing in the photos. Perhaps take them from a bit further away, and try to get the photo in focus on what you want to show
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
thank you, Gordo
I have the new elec ignition was waiting for the friends that never show up to help as I'm a little shy with mechanical parts I'm not familiar with ( typical newbie) LOL
New calipers, rotors, rubber lines, brake booster & master cylinder ect are done
fuel systems done
cooling systems done
headlights rewired mechanical gears stripped,cleaned and new micro switches done ( just need to add fuse links ) but are functioning as designed now
32/36 carb is done
front end in progress new every thing

Thank you Keith, Both of you, I will take not so close pics and return
Glad you mentioned shaving top of spring for BJ clearance don't know if I would have caught that and certainly would not have thought of it
 

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Glad you mentioned shaving top of spring for BJ clearance don't know if I would have caught that and certainly would not have thought of it
Fought mine for quite a while one day until I noticed the ball joint was creating the problem. Confirmed with Keith, that he's seen the same thing. Little grinding and it went back together fine.

Harold
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I don’t know with your pictures, maybe some not so close pics would help. The center bolt is normal, and no rubber buffer is needed. These do not have the clamp in the center so it will not make contact. I don’t think your bends so much matter there anyways, but at times with the heavier duty ball joints, the bases are thicker and make contact with the outer eyelet of the spring, so I grind these out a bit to allow clearance. The center hole of the spring is the critical point, you are not going to see a difference when it is installed.
Here are the pics again for Keith & Keith Don't know if it makes it better or not but one side has a greater bend/arch just before the eye than the other by a 1/4 inch.
My first thought was oh ok its side specific but the other side of me said :no: why in the world would it be side specific
I emailed the supplier but Maybe I pissed them off with what maybe a stupid or very poorly educated question as I haven't heard back from them.
 

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Here are the pics again for Keith & Keith Don't know if it makes it better or not but one side has a greater bend/arch just before the eye than the other by a 1/4 inch.
My first thought was oh ok its side specific but the other side of me said :no: why in the world would it be side specific
I emailed the supplier but Maybe I pissed them off with what maybe a stupid or very poorly educated question as I haven't heard back from them.
Thanks Terry. Yea, that don't look right... OK, who was the supplier? I bought the 1" drop leaf from OGTS and it didn't have a funky bend like that. And if one DID come like that from OGTS, I am pretty darn sure that Gil would make good on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks Terry. Yea, that don't look right... OK, who was the supplier? I bought the 1" drop leaf from OGTS and it didn't have a funky bend like that. And if one DID come like that from OGTS, I am pretty darn sure that Gil would make good on it.
Yes sir, I was reluctant to mention any names ,I have had a couple weird problems with a couple parts from OGTS and as you mentioned Gill has always spoken with me personally, respectfully and corrected any issues.
Even takes time to answer some of my silly newbie questions.
He's no doubt a genuinely kind person and stands behind the products he supplies.
I struggled to send him an email
1) because I wasn't sure if I was being to critical
2) he just replaced a bad ball joint right out of the box ( binding threads)
3) didn't check my invoice but I'm sure shipping on that probably isn't cheap
4) I don't want to become ( THAT GUY) They don't ever want to hear from.
I appreciate the relationship I've built with them in such a small amount of time and want it to remain in good standing.
But at the same time if this one isn't the only one my concern shifts from me to him as he may have a larger problem then just 1 spring.
I'm in business for my self with 2 small family run companies so I completely understand some times things happen and not everything is always perfect ( shcnitt happens)
I have had made plenty of free motor replacements in my time most of the time it's a product issue and on some rare occasions it's my fault ( like forgetting to pull the drain plug on a fan motor) yea a month ago I caught my mistake as I was replacing the condenser motor a little over a year old. thought it was strange to fail that soon. low and behold I left the drain plug in.Explained to the customer Failure was due to my mistake No charge for replacement ( many others out there wouldn't do that and would take advantage of it). NOT ME THAT'S NOT HOW I ROLL
Anyway I sent email Wednesday and haven't heard back as of yet Hope I haven't upset them.
 
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