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cable/fuel line routing

I didn't realize it would be such a long time between when I removed my motor and put one back in.....and I shouldn't trust much to memory anymore.....

There are three routing clips/holes attached to the engine and I'm not sure which is for what.

1. On top of the driver's side engine mount---is this for the battery cable?

2. On the Oil Pan bolt directly under the drivers side engine mount ---is this for the fuel line?

3. Holes thru the engine support/crossmember on the driver's side -- is this for the clutch cable?

Also.........I'm not sure what is stock and what's not.......but the fuel line coming to the carb from the tank is a nylon or plastic line nearly up to the engine compartment then some sort of thick rubber hose that has a pressed-on (?) clamp thingy where the rubber and plastic lines meet. If I want to replace this rubber hose do I need any special fitting or fuel line where it attaches to the nylon fuel line?
 

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4ZUA787
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665 Posts
would i recomend for ur fuel line is to run soft copper tubbing fromt the tank to the carb it will save time in the long run.
 

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OPEL-LESS!!!
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2,116 Posts
your suspicions of 2 mounting clips and holes are all correct. the clutch cable and battery cable are right, and i'm not sure about your fuel line, you'd have to find out from somebody else here. the plastic line is origional, but bosco's copper fuel line would be better in the long run.
 

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boomerang opeler
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5,634 Posts
word of warning about copper pipes
they work harden as all copper dose if you can find cupro nickel(same as brake line ) as this will not harden
 

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I asked the same question a few months ago on Classic Opels board and copper was out. Here is the basic reply I got, and this was from "John" (Didn't get last name) Qoute : I just did mine. I used 5/6" steel tubing with a simple bending tool.
The steel is a bit hard to bend, but it certainly more durable than the original plastic. I just ordered a 25' roll from the local auto parts store. It was cheap. I converted to a rear mounted electric fuel pump and ran the line all the way into the nose section (to help keep it cool) across and up near the carb on the right side. I think it took about 16 feet to do that. It is probably more like 12 feet to go to the fuel pump.

Do not use copper. Copper will become brittle and crack under vibration causing leaks or total failures. Refrigerant line may be better - I don't know one way or the other. I would stay away from it though because it is still copper.

You shouldn't even need a flaring kit, as you can use a short piece of hose with two clamps to make the connections to the original metal from the tank and the fuel pump / filter.

This was what I intend to do. Hth, Jarrell and thanks to " John"
 
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